COMNBYU

Ok I've got $2k to play with. Not $2,1k not $2,5k not $2,001. I've been saving and things are tight already, so $2k's the max. I know the benefits of the 9"/12blt, but I'm trying to figure out the best most cost effective way to do this. My 10blt is already on the fritz...


I've been calling around to all of the LS1tech vendors and speaking with Moser direct for the last couple of weeks and would like some of your opinions. Here what I've come up with-


1. Build the 10blt- buy a Moser axle/spool pkg. along with c-clip E's and a r&p kit and spend around $1k give or take, and would have all new parts. I'd have 1k left to play around with to make some more looks/peformance mods.


2. Build a 9"- buy a Moser 9" housing/axle package. Find local used center section. Probably spend at least $1,5k and have some used parts.


3. Buy complete bolt-in 12blt- buy a complete Moser 12blt w/ 33spl., spool, etc., all the good stuff for just under $2k.



Right now I'm really leaning towards just buying the complete 12blt., but I thought I'd ask for a few more opinions before I make a final decision.















Jon

Demon_Speeding

iTrader: (24)

Since you're an M6 I'd go with the 9". Especially if you plan on modding your car more and/or driving it hard. If you are going to stay at a lower power level the 12 bolt would probably be OK. I would NOT build up the 10-bolt. Chances are it will wind up breaking anyway, and you'll just be out the $1,000 you spent to build it up.

IMO building up the 10-bolt is like modding a Honda. You can upgrade everything possible, in the end it will still be an expensive, inadequate POS.

co.6z28

iTrader: (1)

a spooled 12 will handle anything you can throw at it,unless u are making crazy power. it depends on what your plans are with the car. anything in single digits i would go 9 inch.

Formula WS6

iTrader: (17)

I just broke my built 10 bolt. moser axles, eaton posi, and a 3:73. I though I'd be fine, untill a couple of weeks ago. I exploded the posi on the line with only a 2500 launch on a m6. The kicker is I don't have all that much power. I thinking maybe 360-380 at the wheels with a powerdyne.

TRex

iTrader: (3)

I would buy the Strange 12 bolt housing, because it uses through bolts for the TA mount instead of threaded holes. Then I would buy the axles, bearings, gears, and diff for that and set it up yourself.

If you need to save money, you could get a used diff from one of the boards for the 12 bolt, and still know that it was set up correctly.

You'll save a lot of money on the setup charges, plus you will know it is done right. Many problems with the complete installed packages related to setup.

Carter Hays

Get the 12-bolt.

COMNBYU

My plans for the car right now are to add a 150-200 shot of juice. Other than that the only things the car will have is some weight red., little bit of susp., and the getto CAI and cut off exhaust.

I'm thinking I'll be around 450-500rwhp.


BUT, I'm not going to be one of these people that has a 12/9 and is still cutting 1.8-1.9 60s. I want to be able to leave at 4k+ NA and be able to leave WOT on the jug. I'm gonna be looking for at least 1.6's NA and at least 1.5's on gas. Point being, I'm NOT going to be ***** footing it...


Having said that, I think the 12blt would be fine. I know of plenty of people with a lot more HP going a lot faster than I'll be that are running 12's.

The more I've thought about the expense that will be involved in the 9", I've kinda scrapped that idea. So it'd be between the 10 and 12blt. Seems like a no-brainer huh....













Jon

dug

iTrader: (10)

Build a ford 9" yourself. It will be the strongest and cheapest. Plus you wont be at the mercy of Strange or Moser messing up the assembly. Ford 9" are supposed to be easy to build. You set up the gears on the workbench.

That is what I am gonna do. I cant decide whether go with a spool or a locker. I am leaning towards a spool since its cheaper and unbreakable.

COMNBYU

Well the 9" housing/axle package is $1k fom Moser. The ONLY way for me to go that route would be to already know someone or know where, a centesection is. I could go with any stock 9" centersection but then I'd be looking at 31 or smaller spline axles, which isn't worth it to me. I would imagine anyone selling an aftermarket used section is still going to want at least $5-600, and then I've got used parts.


I think for what I'm doing I'd never break a spooled 12...






Jon

TRex

iTrader: (3)

Not necessarily. Only the diff determines the spline count, not the whole center section. You could get a used dropout, then sell the diff, and buy whatever type of diff you wanted (spline count, spool, truetrac, locker, whatever)

I still think the 12 bolt is the way to go because it is lighter and more efficient than the 9" and will be fine for your application. You can buy the housing and axle package from Strange, then set it up with your preferred gears, diff, and cover. You could buy the diff used (but then it is used parts, although with a spool it doesn't really matter), and get new gears and bearing at a savings.

Also, I wouldn't bother with the c-clip eliminators, they aren't necessary for a car with disc brakes. They will improve axle life since the bearings don't run directly on the axle, but the bearings can fail more quickly if you drive around corners aggressively a lot.

BTW, get the Ratech heavy duty pinion shims, solid pinion spacer, and re-usable cover gasket. It will make gear setup much easier.

Z95m6

iTrader: (1)

Just go that route. You can buy used ford 3.50 posi centersection off ebay for about 150-250ish. It shouldn't whine since its a factory setup and it'll get you by for a while, until you want to build a nice centersection. Thats the nice thing about 1.5 hrs is all its taken and you've changed gears and centersection.

Kakarot2569

Most stock center sections you will find will have junk posi's if not open carriers. They could also have wore bearings and bad seals. After you get past those things you have to remember that most will have insanely small and weak pinion yokes so when you do decide to upgrade you have to have another U joint installed. The number one source of failure in a stock 9 inch is the pinion support so you will also need to make sure you get a daytona pinion support. So if you were to rebuild with new bearings, upgrade pinion yoke, upgrade pinion support and install a worthwhile posi or spool then you are looking at anywhere from 400 - 700 just to upgrade the center depending on the diff you choose and that is not including labor to have it set up if you dont want to tackle it yourself. So you end up paying around $1000 for the center section anyways. I bought my 9 Inch ready to bolt in for $1700 from someone on this board and it is awesome! He makes them for a bunch of others also. If you are interested in getting in contact with him just PM me.

Kakarot2569

By The Way Pro Stock John has his car into the 9's with 31 spline axles.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

does gm make a 4.11 gear for the 12 bolt? id do the housing and have it set up if they did.im sure they would be quieter than any of the aftermarket gear sets. i know they were in my 10 bolt.