52172

iTrader: (2)

What do you guys think? My car is for autocross and hauling *** on the back country roads out where I live. Will I break the factory 10 bolt on 295/35/18 street tires only? I am using the strongest stock 3:42 r and p gears along with an auburn ltd slip. Thoughts? Oh almost forgot the most important thing the power will be 630rwhp approx via single Hi FLow turbo.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

I'd say with any traction that rear is toast. General rule is to go with a 9" for a manual and a 12 bolt for an auto.

52172

iTrader: (2)

Thats the general rule of thunb, but I am looking for real world experiences someone must be running some real power through the factory 10 bolt and not drag racing???????????????????????????????

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Not 630hp.

Above 500 the 10-bolt is eventually doomed. And it never happens in a convenient place.

Anyone making >600 should expect to have to pony up for a fully beefed drivetrain. Otherwise, it's not reliable, and what fun is that? Overbuild and understress.

Jim

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I have seen the 10 bolts break with totally stock cars on street rubber, so you really should plan on a better rear right out of the gate. A 12 bolt would suit your needs just fine. Bob

spanker

i run low elevens with a 1.50 60 foot on et streets stock rearend 4.10s 3 years now the nine inch will have a lot more gear choices

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

I run a moser 9'. My car is a three channel. So I ditched the ABS

dailydriver

You can build a 9 inch that is lighter and stronger than a 12 bolt, (almost as light as a 10 bolt) while still retaining 3 channel ABS, but it will cost substantial $$$! I think Torsen is even developing a T2R diff for these, so you can have the best/strongest of all handling axles for the F bodies.

NumberOneSled

iTrader: (1)

Is there any way to use a Posi in a 9" rear. Also, for you guys driving on the street with 9"'s, what do you use....TrueTrac, etc?

52172

iTrader: (2)

wheres the best place to purchase a 9" rear complete ready for abs and with a ltd slip?

Bowtieman4life

iTrader: (1)

A 12 bolt is lighter and uses up less power. It had to do with weight and the pinion angle. If I remember correctly its was a difference of 2-3% more efficient. The article also stated that a 12 bolt was good through 650 hp while the 9 inch was good through 800 hp. Reference Chevy High Performance and Car Craft.

I would wait until you need it. If you are not going to 1/4 mile race and use Slicks I think it would hold up for a considerable amount of time.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

I ended up doing my 9" for less than 2k and retaining ABS and Traction control. It's a moser housing, 31 spline axles and a 3.50 gear swap meet third member I had rebuilt with a factory LSD. Works great, is stronger and cheaper than a 12 bolt. I was even able to resuse my stock driveshaft after having the u-joing changed (it was a little on the short side but worked).

Mike 01WS6

Stock 10 bolt here, 3.42's. 70k hard miles. Never had the fluid changed or rear serviced.

Boosted for 12k miles, beat on HARD everytime it's taken out. Over 500rwhp on BFG Drag Radials. It's seen 170+ mph quite a few times, and some pretty hard shifts in it's day.

If you decide on upgrading the rear, take into account that you will be pitching your car into some hard turns. One of the rears (12bolt / 9 inch) is better at taking high sideloading forces while the other is not....I cannot remember which one is which and have gotten them backwards in my head several times. Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.