12 bolt or 9 inch needed?
12 bolt or 9 inch needed? What do you guys think? My car is for autocross and hauling *** on the back country roads out where I live. Will I break the factory 10 bolt on 295/35/18 street tires only? I am using the strongest stock 3:42 r and p gears along with an auburn ltd slip. Thoughts? Oh almost forgot the most important thing the power will be 630rwhp approx via single Hi FLow turbo.
Thats the general rule of thunb, but I am looking for real world experiences someone must be running some real power through the factory 10 bolt and not drag racing???????????????????????????????
Not 630hp.
Above 500 the 10-bolt is eventually doomed. And it never happens in a convenient place.
Anyone making >600 should expect to have to pony up for a fully beefed drivetrain. Otherwise, it's not reliable, and what fun is that? Overbuild and understress.
Jim
Above 500 the 10-bolt is eventually doomed. And it never happens in a convenient place.
Anyone making >600 should expect to have to pony up for a fully beefed drivetrain. Otherwise, it's not reliable, and what fun is that? Overbuild and understress.
Jim
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You can build a 9 inch that is lighter and stronger than a 12 bolt, (almost as light as a 10 bolt) while still retaining 3 channel ABS, but it will cost substantial $$$! I think Torsen is even developing a T2R diff for these, so you can have the best/strongest of all handling axles for the F bodies.
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A 12 bolt is lighter and uses up less power. It had to do with weight and the pinion angle. If I remember correctly its was a difference of 2-3% more efficient. The article also stated that a 12 bolt was good through 650 hp while the 9 inch was good through 800 hp. Reference Chevy High Performance and Car Craft.
I would wait until you need it. If you are not going to 1/4 mile race and use Slicks I think it would hold up for a considerable amount of time.
I would wait until you need it. If you are not going to 1/4 mile race and use Slicks I think it would hold up for a considerable amount of time.
I ended up doing my 9" for less than 2k and retaining ABS and Traction control. It's a moser housing, 31 spline axles and a 3.50 gear swap meet third member I had rebuilt with a factory LSD. Works great, is stronger and cheaper than a 12 bolt. I was even able to resuse my stock driveshaft after having the u-joing changed (it was a little on the short side but worked).
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Stock 10 bolt here, 3.42's. 70k hard miles. Never had the fluid changed or rear serviced. 
Boosted for 12k miles, beat on HARD everytime it's taken out. Over 500rwhp on BFG Drag Radials. It's seen 170+ mph quite a few times, and some pretty hard shifts in it's day.
If you decide on upgrading the rear, take into account that you will be pitching your car into some hard turns. One of the rears (12bolt / 9 inch) is better at taking high sideloading forces while the other is not....I cannot remember which one is which and have gotten them backwards in my head several times. Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.
Boosted for 12k miles, beat on HARD everytime it's taken out. Over 500rwhp on BFG Drag Radials. It's seen 170+ mph quite a few times, and some pretty hard shifts in it's day.
If you decide on upgrading the rear, take into account that you will be pitching your car into some hard turns. One of the rears (12bolt / 9 inch) is better at taking high sideloading forces while the other is not....I cannot remember which one is which and have gotten them backwards in my head several times. Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.