Moser/Strange 9 install
Moser/Strange 9 install Finishing up the install. I wouldn't say this was one of the easier mods I have done. I used a lift & tranny jack so I had it easy that way. It's a moser housing with strange center section with 35 sline spool, I also had the housing shortened 2.5 inches per side. It has gone pretty smooth. Things I have encountered;
It appears that the stock driveshaft is going to be approximately a 1/2 inch short. I did not expect this I thought with the larger rear I would need a shorter driveshaft not a longer one.
I used a 1310/1350 conversion U-joint to mount the stock driveshaft which works but I am not sure what kind of U-bolt/bracket to get for mounting to the yoke? The holes are not threaded on the yoke like the stocker.
I had to pull the rear sway bar towards the back then tighten to avoid hitting the lower torque arm mount on the moser housing.
That's all I can think of right now. I won't be finished for quite some time because I just ordered the wheels that will fit this setup. Here are some pics, I removed a lot of parts to clean them and repaint.
It appears that the stock driveshaft is going to be approximately a 1/2 inch short. I did not expect this I thought with the larger rear I would need a shorter driveshaft not a longer one.
I used a 1310/1350 conversion U-joint to mount the stock driveshaft which works but I am not sure what kind of U-bolt/bracket to get for mounting to the yoke? The holes are not threaded on the yoke like the stocker.
I had to pull the rear sway bar towards the back then tighten to avoid hitting the lower torque arm mount on the moser housing.
That's all I can think of right now. I won't be finished for quite some time because I just ordered the wheels that will fit this setup. Here are some pics, I removed a lot of parts to clean them and repaint.
[QUOTE=Vax]lookin good bro
why did you go with a spool over posi/locker?
I went with the spool because it is the strongest, less weight & cheaper. I don't drive this car except for car club events etc. Definately not a daily driver. I think I would go with a locker on a daily driver & weekend 1/4 mile track car.
why did you go with a spool over posi/locker?
I went with the spool because it is the strongest, less weight & cheaper. I don't drive this car except for car club events etc. Definately not a daily driver. I think I would go with a locker on a daily driver & weekend 1/4 mile track car.
I've got the Moser-Strange-Detroit Locker. You might want to have a local shop check the center section if it's not already installed. Mine howled like a bitch on the first install, after a major fight with Strange and me threatening to go to the Consumer Products Safety Comission they finely took it back and rebuit it including R&P. On the second install it whined like it was unbelievable and ultimately froze up because a catrrier was installed wrong. After that I said FUxK Strange and had it rebuilt locally. Very minor whine now, but livable Love those 4,000 rpm dumps.
Think about a Dennys Nitrous driveshaft, lifetime warranty, good for like 2,000 hp. Stock is a disaster waiting to happen.Also to get the sway bar in correctlyyou will need to grind down the torque arm mount tubes. If you have 4 channel traction control and screw in studs you will have to shim the reluctor pickup magnets or your ABS/TCS will not work. Hope this helps.
Think about a Dennys Nitrous driveshaft, lifetime warranty, good for like 2,000 hp. Stock is a disaster waiting to happen.Also to get the sway bar in correctlyyou will need to grind down the torque arm mount tubes. If you have 4 channel traction control and screw in studs you will have to shim the reluctor pickup magnets or your ABS/TCS will not work. Hope this helps.
Here's a picture of mine, red also, and you can see where I had to notch for the sway bar.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...chmentid=24306
By the way the center section and sway bar are painted with a "hammered grey" paint from Home Depot. Looks great with the red.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...chmentid=24306
By the way the center section and sway bar are painted with a "hammered grey" paint from Home Depot. Looks great with the red.
Last edited by bigdsz; Nov 12, 2005 at 05:18 PM.
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Sway bar fit fine, I just rotated the clamps towards the back about a 1/4 inch. I hope I don't have all the trouble with the strange center section. It still had the grease from them setting the back lash, it looked good to me. The rest is pretty simple, spool & pinion etc. I have to order a driveshaft 1/2 inch longer than stock & I should be good to go.
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Verdad Gallardo Strange uses their own US gears which are quality,Moser is now using the same quality US Gears. The only problem is the *** holes setting up the centersections, after three fkd up installs of Strange parts I no longer trust them even though they have good parts. Rebuild it locally.
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Nice pics! I'll be doing the rear end pretty soon. How come you shortened the housing? What about the pinion angle and the driveshaft, any issues there? Do you know what bigdsz means about shimming the reluctor pickup magnets????
Thanks.
Thanks.
I used 1/2x3x20 screw in studs, and the head of the stud due to its proximity to the reluctor sensor created an additional field that sent bad info to the abs/tcs ecu. This kept the abs from working correctly. I used a 1/4" piece of pvc pipe and 4 washers to move the sensor away from the head of the stud.
Originally Posted by Predator
Nice pics! I'll be doing the rear end pretty soon. How come you shortened the housing?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
I used 1/2x3x20 screw in studs, and the head of the stud due to its proximity to the reluctor sensor created an additional field that sent bad info to the abs/tcs ecu. This kept the abs from working correctly. I used a 1/4" piece of pvc pipe and 4 washers to move the sensor away from the head of the stud.
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Originally Posted by code4
I shortened it because I am going with Convo Pro 15X10 wheels with 5 inch backspacing. The stock wheels have 7.5 inch backspacing. So my new wheels would stick out of the fenders if I didn't shorten the rear housing.
Will you have to have a custom driveshaft made?
I've been worried about the pinion angle and driveshaft if I got the 9". If I could get beyond that I'd stop going back and forth between the 12 bolt and the 9".
I don't remember the details but I used the 1/2" studs because that was the minimum acceptable according to some racing rule. It's not the size of the stud that is the problem, it's that it is a screw in stud and the head is bigger than with the knurled pull thrrough type. The fix is not a big deal, it just took some time to figure out.
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
I don't remember the details but I used the 1/2" studs because that was the minimum acceptable according to some racing rule. It's not the size of the stud that is the problem, it's that it is a screw in stud and the head is bigger than with the knurled pull thrrough type. The fix is not a big deal, it just took some time to figure out.
Just curious, did you driveshaft line up okay?
Thanks.
Originally Posted by Predator
So it applies to all 9" installs? This is the first time I heard of this. I'll keep it in mind when I install.
Just curious, did you driveshaft line up okay?
Thanks.
Just curious, did you driveshaft line up okay?
Thanks.
Sorry I haven't got back to you on the pinion angle question. It looks as good as the stock rear did?? It looks pretty straight to me. Here are some pics. This is with the suspesion extended all the way on a two post lift.
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Thanks code4! Looks like you're doing some careful, good work. The driveshaft does look straight.
I can't wait to get going on mine, but I'll have to wait until spring. More nice pics!
Thanks again!
I can't wait to get going on mine, but I'll have to wait until spring. More nice pics!
Thanks again!