Removing rear wheel studs question - picture included
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Manhattan, KS
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Removing rear wheel studs question - picture included
Well I finished the night by taking off the rear rotors/calipers, this is where I stopped at. Basically I'm needing to take off the wheel studs, and as it sits now they won't come out because of the the other stuff in the way. All I could think of was to take off the bolts that can be seen in the picture (the heads are purple), but it looks to be hooked on to the axle. I read here you can remove wheel studs without taking the rear end apart...so, how is that done?
Last edited by Strahley; 04-09-2006 at 12:18 PM.
#2
Restricted User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 7,603
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hit mine with a heavy hammer, after the first one you'll know exactly how much ooomph to give it, then they will pop right out, falling down as they riccochet off the backing plate. If you have 4 channel ABS, then remove the sensor, line up said stud, and you can shoot them right out the sensors hole!
#4
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Manhattan, KS
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, the one on the bottom is already knocked out in the picture, but there's nowhere for it to go to drop out at. It doesn't have enough clearance to do so, and there's no way I could slide the big ARP studs in there
This is the best picture I could get of what It's doing. The stud can only move in and out, there's no room for it to move up/down/left/right
*edit* Is that big ring the one for the 4 channel ABS? I thought only people with TCS had the 4 channel ABS, as I don't have TCS
This is the best picture I could get of what It's doing. The stud can only move in and out, there's no room for it to move up/down/left/right
*edit* Is that big ring the one for the 4 channel ABS? I thought only people with TCS had the 4 channel ABS, as I don't have TCS
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Manhattan, KS
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well after looking at it, I don't see how anything bigger than a factory wheel stud will fit in there without removing axles. Is there any other way to squeeze longer wheel studs in there without taking axles off?
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Manhattan, KS
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is the only write up I could find on it
http://www.freewebs.com/casper9t9/dragwheelinfo.htm
Is there another one with some pictures? I've never done rear end work before
http://www.freewebs.com/casper9t9/dragwheelinfo.htm
Is there another one with some pictures? I've never done rear end work before
#9
9 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
I just did this myself a few days ago. Didn't feel like pulling the axles either. Figured if I broke a stud down the line I'd be able to change it easier too.
I used a 90 degree adapter on my drill,a metal cutting 1" hole saw and a step bit.
I took out one stud and used a smaller diameter bit and drilled through the stud hole into the backing plate where the 4 channel abs sensor usually go's.
Then using that as my pilot hole, I drilled with the hole saw from the back. It's a tight fit but the pass side I was able to get.
The drivers side was to tight. So I drill the biggest hole I could through the front and then used a step bit to finish it from the rear.
It's hard to get the drill straight due to the tight working area. The holes werent' the prettiest, but they got the job done. Maybe you have/can find a lower profile 90 degree drill/adapter.
I used a 90 degree adapter on my drill,a metal cutting 1" hole saw and a step bit.
I took out one stud and used a smaller diameter bit and drilled through the stud hole into the backing plate where the 4 channel abs sensor usually go's.
Then using that as my pilot hole, I drilled with the hole saw from the back. It's a tight fit but the pass side I was able to get.
The drivers side was to tight. So I drill the biggest hole I could through the front and then used a step bit to finish it from the rear.
It's hard to get the drill straight due to the tight working area. The holes werent' the prettiest, but they got the job done. Maybe you have/can find a lower profile 90 degree drill/adapter.
#10
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Norrköping, Sweden
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Strahley I'm doing exactly the same thing right now, but I´m too stuck at not being able to get the studs out. Did you just bang it as the others posted? Sprayed it first with oil? Have to hit it hard before it gave in?
Sorry for hijacking your thread.
-D
Sorry for hijacking your thread.
-D
#15
12 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone have any idea on how to get longer, wider studs past the reluctor wheels?
I've got 1/2-20x3 studs with .615... Can't get a sheared one past the stupid sensor wheel...
I've got 1/2-20x3 studs with .615... Can't get a sheared one past the stupid sensor wheel...
#16
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Western PA
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Like MoonBunny said: take the ABS sensor off ( it's a 1" or so do hickey , mounted on the reluctor wheel). Line up that hole with the stud your working on; it gives plenty of room to remove or install studs.