When will my 10 bolt break?
11-17-2006, 11:28 AM
#41
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My stock ten bolt broke after i put my procharger in and made about 3 1/4 mile passes but now i have a 12 bolt with 4.10s and love them definately the best choice to make!
11-20-2006, 07:45 AM
#42
Originally Posted by racinws6
from the research i have done, the crush sleeve in our 10 bolts is one of the big problems. the power our motors make, crushes the sleeve and messes up the backlash. this causes the pinion to become loose 
which is the roaring noise you hear. then its only a matter of time before you grenade it. 
a shim kit in place of the crush sleeve will fix this problem and extend the life of the 10 bolt. 
which is the roaring noise you hear. then its only a matter of time before you grenade it. a shim kit in place of the crush sleeve will fix this problem and extend the life of the 10 bolt. mine was the housing, warping ever so slightly, causing deflection, chipping teeth off the ring and pinion, jamming the spiders, blah blah blah
11-26-2006, 11:05 PM
#43
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I put 50000 miles on my 10 bolt, countless passes at the track. I religously changed the fluid knowing it was on borrowed time. When it finnaly went I broke the drivers side axle at the splines. Luckly I had a spare axle and saved for a 9 Inch.
01-16-2007, 06:02 PM
#44
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So is there some kind of swap I can do with a rearend out of a different car or something? because I will never be able to afford a aftermarket 12 bolt rear setup...
01-22-2007, 02:58 PM
#46
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I've had my 10 bolt in two cars now and was rebuilt about 2 1/2 years ago. Its got 3.73, thunder rebuilt kit, and eaton. Cheap *** fluid and Traction X or what ever its called. I dont have the ***** to put slicks and spray to it though. Its seen 1.7's all its life.
02-10-2007, 02:59 PM
#47
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Has anyone put a spool or a locker in the 10bolt,have you broken it?
The old 7.5" before 1982 had weak diffrentials but if you put a locker or a spool they last much longer
The old 7.5" before 1982 had weak diffrentials but if you put a locker or a spool they last much longer
02-10-2007, 07:37 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by Bipolar
So is there some kind of swap I can do with a rearend out of a different car or something? because I will never be able to afford a aftermarket 12 bolt rear setup...
02-10-2007, 07:37 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by Ari G
Has anyone put a spool or a locker in the 10bolt,have you broken it?
The old 7.5" before 1982 had weak diffrentials but if you put a locker or a spool they last much longer
The old 7.5" before 1982 had weak diffrentials but if you put a locker or a spool they last much longer
02-22-2007, 06:01 AM
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whats the chances ill break mine. I have a m6 with nitto 555r's long tubes and a cam. i want to go to the track Will my chances of breaking it decrease if i dont launch it
02-22-2007, 07:32 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by Bipolar
So is there some kind of swap I can do with a rearend out of a different car or something? because I will never be able to afford a aftermarket 12 bolt rear setup...
02-22-2007, 08:25 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by minesfaster
whats the chances ill break mine. I have a m6 with nitto 555r's long tubes and a cam. i want to go to the track Will my chances of breaking it decrease if i dont launch it
03-26-2007, 09:47 PM
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Nitto drag radials = 10 bolt saver
Went to the track the other day and spun on every run, still managed a 1.84 60' though. Plus I give this car hell on the street, havent had any problems with the 10 bolt and it has 4.10 gears in it
Went to the track the other day and spun on every run, still managed a 1.84 60' though. Plus I give this car hell on the street, havent had any problems with the 10 bolt and it has 4.10 gears in it
04-01-2007, 02:19 PM
#56
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I will be going with a Yank SS4000 pretty soon and a set of M/T E/T streets (26X10.50) car is just whisper lid, dynomax bullit dumped, and 3.73s (A4). Anyones guess on what I should be expecting, already saved about a thousand for a new rear just in case, but I would prefer to keep this one for a while.
04-17-2007, 06:30 PM
#57
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I'm worried.
The rear end on our SS has started to make some abnormal noise when turning or traveling slowly, and I think it's the axle. The car is a 2002 SS M6, with every SLP option (CME, SLP lid, Auburn Diff, Bilstien suspension, etc). The car has just over 12,000 miles. It has never been to a track, and won't likely go to a track under our ownership. And it is babied on the street, with every way, shape, and form of the word. But when I do run it hard, I run it hard, very hard. I enjoy letting the back end fall out of place off the line, around turns, into 2nd, and into 3rd. If I go WOT, which is rare but happens, I go to redline, and slam the next gear hard. So when I do drive hard, it's very hard.
Anyways, the rear end is starting to make a little bit of noise. It isn't much, but on a car as otherwise flawless as this, I noticed it. I still have a warranty on the car, good for just under another year. If/when it does finally break, should I just have it replaced under warranty? Or should I put an aftermarket unit in it that I won't break? The problem here is that the car won't ever have more than the 345hp it's got. It will never get a K&N, heads, cam, or anything like that. So upgrading to a 12-bolt seems like a waste of money, especially if it doesn't drive like a stock piece (No noise, not a posi, etc). I'm not too versed on rear ends, if that isn't obvious yet.
So what would be the best option for a stock car that is very rarely driven hard, but when it is driven hard, making more power than every other stock F-body, it's driven very hard?
The rear end on our SS has started to make some abnormal noise when turning or traveling slowly, and I think it's the axle. The car is a 2002 SS M6, with every SLP option (CME, SLP lid, Auburn Diff, Bilstien suspension, etc). The car has just over 12,000 miles. It has never been to a track, and won't likely go to a track under our ownership. And it is babied on the street, with every way, shape, and form of the word. But when I do run it hard, I run it hard, very hard. I enjoy letting the back end fall out of place off the line, around turns, into 2nd, and into 3rd. If I go WOT, which is rare but happens, I go to redline, and slam the next gear hard. So when I do drive hard, it's very hard.
Anyways, the rear end is starting to make a little bit of noise. It isn't much, but on a car as otherwise flawless as this, I noticed it. I still have a warranty on the car, good for just under another year. If/when it does finally break, should I just have it replaced under warranty? Or should I put an aftermarket unit in it that I won't break? The problem here is that the car won't ever have more than the 345hp it's got. It will never get a K&N, heads, cam, or anything like that. So upgrading to a 12-bolt seems like a waste of money, especially if it doesn't drive like a stock piece (No noise, not a posi, etc). I'm not too versed on rear ends, if that isn't obvious yet.
So what would be the best option for a stock car that is very rarely driven hard, but when it is driven hard, making more power than every other stock F-body, it's driven very hard?
04-22-2007, 08:00 PM
#58
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Im scared to run with my setup now on my 10 bolt I just replaced my ring & pinion im gonna save up so eventually i can get me a Moser 12 bolt and do 5k clutch dumps hopefully mine lasts as long as SDB's (above)
It was crazy loud before it broke, it was destined to die... It had countless track passes on it.