Longevity of 12 bolts?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
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Longevity of 12 bolts? I am going to have a T/A with full bolt ons and camed, and it will a DD. So hopefully that will put me around 370-390 range, and Then im doing a wet shot of 100-125, So that could put me in the higher 400s and maybe low 500s, And from wat i have read the ten bolt can't take that. Now this car will only see the track one or twice a month. And will also me stalled once the cam is in. Now i have also read about alot of the 12 bolts going bad after about 5000 miles on, how true is that, cuz i can't keep affording to repair them (unless the repairing is cheap). So should i just cancel my moding plans or will the 12 bolt last long for a DD.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,124
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From: Las Vegas
Dunno..... my been working great for 39+ years.
Its pretty much come down to not only who, but how its built. I have heard and experienced nothing but horror stories from the two most used (and talked about) on this web-site..... (but I have known this for 15+ years)..... so it might/would be in your best interest to get yourself a pile of parts together and have someone up to par do the deed and assemble it for you.
Its pretty much come down to not only who, but how its built. I have heard and experienced nothing but horror stories from the two most used (and talked about) on this web-site..... (but I have known this for 15+ years)..... so it might/would be in your best interest to get yourself a pile of parts together and have someone up to par do the deed and assemble it for you.
Yes, $2300 is a hit. How much do you think full bolt ons cost? Plus the cam and valvetrain upgrades? Then the tune? Then the stall??? You're looking at spending $3000 right there EASILY if you install them yourself. If you use the best parts it could be close to $5000. Personally, I would buy a used 12 bolt if I knew its history and the person selling it. However, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a new one if the time to get a new one.
If you don't go to the track very often and race from a roll or lack super sticky tires, the 10 bolt could hold up. There are people in the 10s with a 10 bolt. However, one day, it will more than likely go. Being fast is expensive!
If you don't go to the track very often and race from a roll or lack super sticky tires, the 10 bolt could hold up. There are people in the 10s with a 10 bolt. However, one day, it will more than likely go. Being fast is expensive!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
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well thats what i was think, all the stuff, plus the dam 12 bolt, its adding up to almost wat i wanna pay for the car, lol. Now im just thinking of buying one with full bolt on from this site, and adding the cam and nos. And then not useing the nos at the track, cuz you can almost guess wat an extra 100 hp cuts of, and just useing the nos from rolls.
I've used 12 bolts in various cars for 20+ years, with much more power than some of you guys talking about having problems......................... never had trouble.......... I don't get it.
I daily drive my car and I didn't have a problem spending $2300 for a rear end if it meant it was going to be solid and completely reliable...
Used 12 bolts still sell for around $1800, what is $500 more to get a brand new one with the options that YOU want, that you know will be quiet from the get-go.
Used 12 bolts still sell for around $1800, what is $500 more to get a brand new one with the options that YOU want, that you know will be quiet from the get-go.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
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noise to me isn't a problem, i just need that rearend to last, and i never plan on going above 500 hp, and that hp be due to nos too, for about the next 8 years (if the car lasts).
And i don't trust my self to install, so how much will that hurt me.
And also if i don't spray, and just run the camed n/a at the track, can i trust the 10 bolt long enough so that i can save for a 12 bolt? that would be around 360-390 hp.
And spraying for a roll, that shouldn't hurt the rear end right?
and i wanna thank you guys for all the help.
And i don't trust my self to install, so how much will that hurt me.
And also if i don't spray, and just run the camed n/a at the track, can i trust the 10 bolt long enough so that i can save for a 12 bolt? that would be around 360-390 hp.
And spraying for a roll, that shouldn't hurt the rear end right?
and i wanna thank you guys for all the help.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Las Vegas
Originally Posted by OverLord
Would buying a used be a good idea? cuz 2300 bucks is a really bad hit, and you daily drive the car?
$2300 really isnt all that bad. My 300M axles alone, cost me about $450 a piece and I havent finished doing a cost evaluation of the housing ends yet.... but I am sure they will be around $250..... then there is $275 a piece for the wheel bearings and I havent even gotten into the internals yet. Lets see.... $325 for an isotropic finished ring and pinion, $85 for a new clutch pack, $165 for a billet 1350 yolk, $65 for a Williams billet steel main cap, $25 for a billet pinion spacer....
That's $2365 so far. For a nukeproof, Bosch 8.x ABS/TCS compatible 12bolt. So maybe $2300 is a big hit for what you are getting for in a final product.
Before I started doing all of this to the stock housing about six months ago..... it lived thru the three engines I put into the chassis. And it was a daily driver to me since 1987. The chassis was 20 years of age before it got into my hands. One engine made 630+hp and another one I got over 270000 miles out of it before it had a rod cap failure. All thru stock c-clip axles and an OE 3.55 gear set..... and Im not nice to my parts either. I plainly beat the **** out that drive train. Once the engine and chassis warmed up, it was redline to the braking point ever time the key hit the ignition.
Last edited by chicane; May 27, 2006 at 12:24 AM.
$2,400 shipped ($2,500 for ABS/TCS) for a Moser 9 inch is what I suggest. The Moser 9 inch uses the stock OEM method of attaching the torque arm, which is superior to the Moser's 12 bolt method. When I hear of nitrous being used, the nine inch is what I suggest, whether it is going to be behind a stick or auto. Bob
i have a 12 bolt moser w/all the up grades it could come with. i have 20,000mi and many 1.3 and 1.4 60 foots pulling the front wheels 3-feet in a close to stock weight 01 ta. my rear has never gave me a problem at all and my slicks almost never come off.i have 605hp and 655tq on the t.n.t kit 463 414tq all on a mustang dyno. the 12 bolt will last.
ow yeah,i had a 12bolt put in before i even had heads,cam,headers,the 12bolt was one of my first mods.
ow yeah,i had a 12bolt put in before i even had heads,cam,headers,the 12bolt was one of my first mods.
Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of buying a $2300 rear end? 
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Originally Posted by OverLord
And also if i don't spray, and just run the camed n/a at the track, can i trust the 10 bolt long enough so that i can save for a 12 bolt? that would be around 360-390 hp.
And spraying for a roll, that shouldn't hurt the rear end right?
and i wanna thank you guys for all the help.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 122
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yes thanks guys for all of your help, any more info would be great, still not sure about this one. Don't really wanna spend to much into mods because i still have school and i have to pay for AP classes.
12 bolt is fine for an auto. If you had a six speed and were gonna be spraying at the track I'd say 9 inch. I know guys with 9 second LS1's with TH400s w/trans brake running the 12 bolts.
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
12 bolt is fine for an auto. If you had a six speed and were gonna be spraying at the track I'd say 9 inch. I know guys with 9 second LS1's with TH400s w/trans brake running the 12 bolts.
When the time comes (again) for my SS, it will be a 12-bolt (funds permitting). 
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tulsa, Ok
my 12-bolt has been in three f-body's, has nearly 100k miles on it, and i've never done anything besides replace axle and pinion seals. i've had it since may of 2001.
it has been beat to hell and back with slicks at the track, slicks on the street, nirtous runs, whatever. has never given up.
it has been beat to hell and back with slicks at the track, slicks on the street, nirtous runs, whatever. has never given up.