AzzHauler

iTrader: (3)

How much were the parts and where did you get them? Did you replace them or have a shop fix it? What's involved in removing them?

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

I broke a couple, I just left em in the 10 bolt and went and bought a 12.. I'm leaving it to whoever buys it to worry about. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

AzzHauler

iTrader: (3)

Hahaha. Hence, I made this post. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> So how about it guys? What's the scoop on this? Does a helms manual have the info? I still need to get one of those...

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

<--- Have replaced spider gears in the past.

Its a real PITA to get those springs back in there. I'd almost recommend getting a torsen or something and not even bother <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

99blkta

i broke them, i just replaced it with the auburn unit because i heard it was a "real" pain in the *** to replace, you can buy the replacement's from the dealer for like 150, but i would buy the new auburn or torsen unit and it's alot easier to install.

Tim 98z

iTrader: (1)

I have broke them also. But you do know you can order the complete posi replcement from SLP right? And thats its only $99 for a pull out unit! Cant beet that. Why go through the hasle of buying one and all the labor involved for more money?

<small>[ May 07, 2002, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: Tim 98z ]</small>

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I did the same thing. I had killed the spider gears in my stock 10 bolt so I just got a take out unit from SLP for $99.

FYI, the shop that did the repair said that doing a lot of hard burnouts on the brakes hurts the rear because it plays havic with the diff. Just something to think about. If your planning on doing a lot of standing still burnouts, aka heating up drag radials/slicks at the track, make certain to get a line lock.

AzzHauler

iTrader: (3)

This is the part you guys are talking about, correct? Just a direct swap right?

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

heres what you are working with casey <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

http://community.webshots.com/storag...yIGpzbf_ph.jpg

more pics in the 12 bolt section of my page

bigSS

David - Can't get the link to work.

horist

I broke mine last year... drove it to dealership told them it started making this weird clunking noise when I took corners... got a new diff under warranty <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

They asked why I had fresh fluid and gaskets on it (took my rearend girdle off) and I told them "My dad's an auto mechanic, and he said that if I was going to drive it to the dealership, I should get any pieces of metal out of the diff so they dont get jammed and cause other stuff to break" the dealership bought it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

minivette

For those that have done it, how hard is it to replace this? Is it a 1 day job? any special tools involved? Thanx <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<img src="http://www.slponline.com/img/part_img/64501T.jpg" alt="" />

Grease Monkey

honestly if you have never done anyting inside of your rear end it isn't something you should do yourself...

first off you will need to get the bearings pressed off/on what ever the case.. usually the slp take out comes with bearings however they are usually damaged!

secondly you will need to dial indicator to check back lash! also a mic is sometimes needed if the back lash needs to be changed..

i know you are just replacing the carrier however no two carriers are exactly alike and bearings are sometimes slightly different.

it is a 2 hour job it isn't difficult if you know what your doing

here are the steps if you still want to do it and don't have a dial indicator or a mic

1)jack car up and support rear of car with jack stands.. the higher the better..do not support the rear axle, support the car right infront of the rear lower control arms

2)pull your panhard bar

3)take out the 10 thirteen millimeter bolts that hold the diff cover plate on

4)remove both rear wheels

5)remove both brake calipers(2 15 mill bolts each side)

6) take rear disc's off.. make sure e-brake is down for this

7)after fluid is drained from rear diff turn the carrier until you see a small 8mill bolt that holds the c-clip retainer pin/block into the carrier..... remove this bolt

8) take the center c-clip retainer block/pin out of the differential

9)after the c-clip retainer pin/block is removed press the axles "in"..the idea is to get the c-clips off the ends of the axles.. so go to one side of the car and push the axle towards the other side off the car.. this should release the c-clip for this particular axle you are pushing on. repeat the other side..

10)look in the rear end housing you should see 2 brass colored c-clips either in the carrier or the bottom of the housing..

11) pull axles 1.5 feet out of rear end housing

12)remove 4 bolts that hold the end caps in place that secure the carrier into the rear of the car.

13) make sure you know which side everything comes from and remeber to put it back the same way it came out!!!!!!!!!

14) get a 1.5 foot or bigger pry-bar and pry under the bottom of the carrier.. it takes some strength, soon it will feel like it is moving and it will eventually come out..

15) getting the ring gear off the carrier ...
get and impact gun and get the correct size socket and make sure you put the direction of the impact gun on tighten....these bolts are reverse threaded..take off all bolts

16) carefully hammer in circles around the ring gear and abs sensor if its a 3 channel abs car.
hit harder if necc. it will come off but it takes patience and correct technique

17) after you of someone you know or a shop has pressed the bearings on the carrier you purchased put the ring gear and abs sensorif you have an abs sensor on the carrier.. when tightening use star tightening techniques and make sure you lock tight and torque each bolt correctly... i.e. very tight. remember to tighten these bolts you need to use reverse on the impact gun

18)using the shims that you took out of the car when you took out the original carrier(remember to remember what came from each side so you can put the same stuff back where it came from.

19)put the end caps on and tighten

20 reverse the process on getting your axles out and put them in.

21) put the center c-clip retainer block/pin in and replace the 8 mm bolt that holds this pin/block in place

22) put cover plate on and fill with fluid

23) put disc and calipers back on

24) put wheels on!

GOOD LUCK

minivette

Thanks a lot GM. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

Grease Monkey

hey i forgot to add that it sometimes gives you a tad bit more room to work if you unbolt your shocks from the axle housing...

this way the rear end comes down farther and allows more access..!!!

good luck

if you need anything else let me know.. just post here..
I've broken this thing 4 times and am fluent on this POS rear end!

AzzHauler

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

see like i said we will just replace the spider gears <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />