Bad Gear Wear? check out pic, help
06-17-2006, 07:42 PM
#1
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Bad Gear Wear? check out pic, help check out the pic of my ring gear. tell me what u think.
i bought my moser 12 bolt from j and j speed shop and now it has 1000 miles on it. at first there was only a small whinnin noise....when i was decelarating, and accelarating when racing. from day one up until now its gotten a shitload louder. i changed the gear oil today....i saw that the wear pattern was too deep, and seems to curl on the inner side of the tooth. im not an expert but i thought on any rear, the wear pattern was supposed to be exactly in the middle of the tooth. im callin moser & j&j speed shop mon. i wanna get them set up again, possibly new gears cuz i think my ring gear is a lil damaged/worn on the tips of all the teeth. moser better take care of it...$2300... it should b done right the first ****** time. please give me sum input
i bought my moser 12 bolt from j and j speed shop and now it has 1000 miles on it. at first there was only a small whinnin noise....when i was decelarating, and accelarating when racing. from day one up until now its gotten a shitload louder. i changed the gear oil today....i saw that the wear pattern was too deep, and seems to curl on the inner side of the tooth. im not an expert but i thought on any rear, the wear pattern was supposed to be exactly in the middle of the tooth. im callin moser & j&j speed shop mon. i wanna get them set up again, possibly new gears cuz i think my ring gear is a lil damaged/worn on the tips of all the teeth. moser better take care of it...$2300... it should b done right the first ****** time. please give me sum input
06-18-2006, 12:51 AM
#3
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No.... the wear pattern being in the middle of the tooth means nothing. Every performance differential I have done, is set up with drive being slightly toe with coast centered. The reason for drive being set toe is to combat tooth deflection. When the tooth loads, it flexes and the pattern will will go towards center.
There is nothing wrong with your pattern.
The 'wear' you see on the crown of the toe-side teeth, was done by hand with a sander and/or grinder. That is done to reduce the 'hard wiping' of that edge in contact with the pinion gear face. Why they didnt do the whole tooth would be my question ?? I mean.... if your gonna spend the time to do what was done, why not finish it up right ?? It looks like they were trying a bandaid fix for a mechanical imperfection.
Every performance build I do, gets full teeth de-buring.... and I dont even charge for it because it takes so little time to accomplish.
There is nothing wrong with your pattern.
The 'wear' you see on the crown of the toe-side teeth, was done by hand with a sander and/or grinder. That is done to reduce the 'hard wiping' of that edge in contact with the pinion gear face. Why they didnt do the whole tooth would be my question ?? I mean.... if your gonna spend the time to do what was done, why not finish it up right ?? It looks like they were trying a bandaid fix for a mechanical imperfection.
Every performance build I do, gets full teeth de-buring.... and I dont even charge for it because it takes so little time to accomplish.
06-18-2006, 11:56 AM
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so u think i shouldnt worry about it? im not an expert so i understand that the wear might be fine, but i dont understand why when the first couple hundred miles it was quiet with small whine on decel, now its louder and whines consistantly all the time, even when cruising at 50-60. many people have said that it should only make noise on decel, and should be quiet when cruisin. ive heard many times from people in the forum that have the same set up(moser 12bolt w/ 4.11's) who dont have bad whining problems, or did and had the gears set up again and had no noise after. either way im just gonna ride it til it breaks, if it breaks early then ill kno sumpin was wrong. i guess we'll find out in time... and when i take it to the track and launch it lol. heres sum extra pics, there blury tho. tell me what ya think
06-18-2006, 08:34 PM
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80/90 non synthetic, no additive. thats what i was told for my application. i was told that the detroit truetrac limited slip diff doesnt require additive cuz theres no cluthes in it.
06-18-2006, 11:38 PM
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I stll say that a 140wt oil is the bare minimum..... especially in a weak link 7.5" 10bolt (with the exception of cold climate driving.) But... thats what a 90-140wt oil is for.
What gears are being used in your differential ??
What gears are being used in your differential ??
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06-20-2006, 10:18 PM
#11
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Well..... Richmonds are prone to make noise. The main reason for this, is because the gear material is a little too hard when being checked on a "Rockwell" hardness tester. That alone changes the natural frequency of the material..... and it can bring on a resonant whine.
Although..... I have done many, many sets of Richmonds without them making a peep.
The problem with making any kind of suggestion about a differential... is being on the internet...... and not actually seeing it firsthand.
Switching to an alloy or fiber driveshaft will also dampen differential noises. As will using a higher viscosity lube....
But I would have to also ask what your lash is set at, preload #'s... etc.... to get a better idea.
Although..... I have done many, many sets of Richmonds without them making a peep.
The problem with making any kind of suggestion about a differential... is being on the internet...... and not actually seeing it firsthand.
Switching to an alloy or fiber driveshaft will also dampen differential noises. As will using a higher viscosity lube....
But I would have to also ask what your lash is set at, preload #'s... etc.... to get a better idea.
06-21-2006, 04:51 PM
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lol man i wish i could give ya some numbers, but i cant. i mean i could but im not a pro at it and might not be accurate or whatever. plus i would have to get a dial indicator and in/lb torque wrench. im juss gonna ride it and have faith....and if it breaks then we'll kno sumthin might have been wrong....then thro a new set of gears in and have em done right. thanks tho
