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M6 and 10-bolt

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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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Default M6 and 10-bolt

Im going to swap my stalled auto for a M6 pretty soon. I just rebuilt the rearend 500 miles ago with 3.42 gearing.

With a 4400 stall my car dyno'd 380 to the wheels. Im sure it will be over 400 with the m6.

Will i be okay with this rear if DON'T run a sticky tire.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 09:36 AM
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Just dont drop the clutch at 5k and dont powershift everyday and you SHOULD be fine for a long time.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 09:42 AM
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naw no clutch dropping or powershifting for me. Im new to manual cars. I have driven a few (500whp cobra, 300whp srt-4, stock 3000gt...ect) and all thought i drove a manual daily.

Thanks, that makes me feel much better about this swap.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 01:35 PM
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You will get alot of responses saying how weak the stock 10 bolt is. There are so many variables that can cause the 10bolt to break, and as always you usually only hear from the people who have busted theirs.

There are plenty of people on this site running 400rwhp with 4:10's in their 10 bolt. As long as you dont beat the sh*t out of it on a regular basis, you should be fine
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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the main breaker of rears is sticky tires. when the tires hook, the force of the hook and the force of the torque from the drivetrain are both exerted on the rear and thats what makes it break. street tires will give in really quick and spin, so you wont have that opposing force from the tires. i have 4.10's and ive done burnouts on then and they are dead quiet.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 05:06 PM
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you're never safe, as i learned last weekend. mine gave way on a 2000 slip launch on 18" radials at the track.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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Wheelhop is a biotch on them
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 07:38 PM
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00 yeah, you car look sweet. i love the rims.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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thanks. you should hear the big nasty "CLUNK" coming from behind the driver's side rear wheel.
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