badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

For a 380 RWHP car is a 12 bolt overkill?

This is a daily driven car and rarely drag raced however I do
Like to beat on it and would like not to worry about breaking
The rear end.

?1.Will the stock 28 spline axels be stronge enough for my power?
I’m thinking the weak part is the carrier and just upgrade it & add
A rear end surport gridle.

I’m inbetween replacing the carrier / aftermarket upgrade or
Must I upgrade intire rear end?

?2.Is this a bad idea investing in my 10bolt? I’ve already
Invested in new GM axels 16K mile ago.

?3.which is the best carrier for the money?
Eaton
Alburn
Powertax

?4.I understand about gear ratios but am confussed what a spool is?

I have read the FAQ and some threads here but am still unsure.

Thanks from the rear end newbie

Fedge

iTrader: (3)

i broke a buncha stock rears with basically stock power in my 93 Formula M6 just beatin on it if that's any help...you have more hp than me and i'm gonna upgrade for sure.

keliente

iTrader: (22)

Upgrading to a 12 bolt is never overkill, considering that people break rears on stock power.

Don't put any money into the 10 bolt...if you have the itch to solidfy your rear, go 12 bolt or 9 inch. A spool is just a rear end that is locked - the rear wheels turn at the same time and do not slip around corners like a limited slip differential.

2000TransAmWS6

iTrader: (12)

a 12 bolt is only overkill in a stock v6 application.

if it is financially possible for you i would not invest anymore in your 10bolt, and i would call Moser and let them answer all of your questions... 12 bolts are expensive, the least they can do is point you in the right direction on what to buy.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Since you have an auto it is not as big of a deal. The manual tranny's put alot more stress on the rear end. Its quite possible that with a support girdle your rear will hold just fine. But if you are planning on upping the horsepower a 12 bolt wouldnt hurt, especially if youve got $2500 laying around.

A spool is for drag racing, great for going in a straight line since the axles are locked together. But because of this the wheel sort of hops when going around corners. so dont worry about a spool, a nice posi is all you need

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I have a TA girdle (with the cap support bolts) and I have never had a problem. My car is at 400 hp. As mentioned above, it is the M6s that have a problem; I know someone with a stock SS LS1 that blew his out.
That should be all you need until you up the hp, IMO. Of course, anything is possible, but I would put the 2500 into the savings account and let it grow.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Upgrading the rear is considered a basic thing, the big question is do you want to fork up the 2700+ dollars in cash not including a driveshaft and other smaller things.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

youll hear people say "oh i broke my rearend with my stock hp", well if u DD and dont BEAT the crap out of your car, launch the **** out of it it should last.. im on my stock rear & clutch with over 400 to the wheels on an M6... so if your not too crazy itll last..

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I presonally think that the folks that gernade there rears are plainly abusing there car to the point of breakage mainly M6 guy's.

I also think that wheel hop causes alot of stress on these rear ends so I'm ahead of the game with a my chasis mods my rear suspension is very stiff almost completely ilimiting wheel hop. this rear end stays planted.

some guys around here are putting down over 600RWHP on stock 10 bolts,
12 bolt would be nice it's not just the initail investment to concider mines a 3 sereis carrier 4 channel so I guess a ford 9" can't be concidered.

from what I've read about 12 bolts is not favorable read here that after a few hard sideways launches the ring will wine reguardless of correct setup & breakin of ring & pinon.

Thanks Guys for this infor I'm new to a solid axel car but am learning.

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

im making 353rwhp and 370rwtq and have 63K miles on my car with original clutch and rear. just keep up routine maintaince and when/if it does go, replace it with anything you want.

Zepher

280rwhp in my old 96 Trans Am M6 popped 13 rear ends.
My 195rwhp Formula M5 popped 2 in less than 1 year.

TransAminal

Damn dude...

Ever consider that maybe its the way you're driving it??

Zepher

"Drive it like you stole it" is my motto.

it's the shock load of the rear from the manual that kills the driveline. if you want to go fast, you have to shift fast.

When the 96 was converted to auto with a stall, the rear hasn't broken yet.
Now the 96 has an 02 LS1 with heads/cam and 4K stall, and now has 430rwhp. The bald 315 BFG KD's just spin whenever you punch it under 80mph, so for now, the rear is still safe.

SLPSS99

iTrader: (7)

where are you getting your rearend from, $2700 thats nuts, got my S60 for 2300 with DS and fluid!!

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Depending on options and by the time you buy all the little things you need it can be between 2500-3000. but yea, the rearend alone is usually about 2300 or so

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

12 Bolt Bolt In - GM "F" Body
with Moser Full Spool (30 or 33 spline) 2009
with Eaton Posi (30 spline) 2239
with C-Clip Axles (30 spline only) 2111.50

Available Options:
Upgrade to 30 spline Truetrac Differential +25
Upgrade to 33 spline Truetrac Differential +65
Upgrade to 33 spline Limited Slip Posi +95
3 Channel ABS setup +100
4 Channel ABS setup (must press on own exciter rings) +75
4 Channel ABS exciter rings +100
Performance Rear Cover instead of Chrome Cover +135
1310 series Pinion Yoke instead of 1350 series Pinion Yoke -40

That so far is 2514.00

+ Taxes (even over the internet....) In CT its 6%

$2664.84 (w/taxes)

Plus Shipping, Freight around 100.00

2764.84

No GP, no special friend prices, this is what it cost to buy a Moser. Then a Denny's DS is around 400 by the time your done.

TARZAN

iTrader: (12)

You're an A4....as long as you treat it right, you should be fine. Don't put any $$$ into the stocker though...I know a couple different A4 guys spraying it on slicks right out of the gate snd they're fine...

-Will

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I thought my diff. was going south had it checked turns out it's just wheel spin after 5 years I've never really noticed it untill recently.

when the steering wheel is turned all the way to right it's become real noticable that the right wheel is breaking loose. the man said this is normal.

He also pointed out that my axel has shifted the left wheel is sticking out about a 1/2 " more than the right.
I think this is caused by that adjustable panhard rod adjuster locking nuts coming loose the first time I noticed this I retightened the locking nuts using the dirt as a guide.

How will I straighten this out push on the right wheel or pull on the left?
or just split the differnce?

mearsuring this?
I guess this is straightened out with a string taped to the fender at center of wheel with a small wieght attached to the string.String being the bench mark?

also will a shifted axel cause extra wheel spin when the steering wheel is completely turned?

Thanks Guy's for advicing a solid axel newbie

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

agreed...
i've got an 85 z28 with a 383/400 tranny putting out over 500rwhp and the rear gears are 373s and a non-limited slip rear. so far i've been through 2 engine rebuilds and am on my 3rd lol. the car runs constants 11.0s ono the 1/4 and NEVER (knock on wood) had a problem with the rear.

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

that's why i like the solid parts. the only adjustable parts on my car are the struts and shocks!