For a 380 RWHP car is a 12 bolt overkill?
#1
For a 380 RWHP car is a 12 bolt overkill?
For a 380 RWHP car is a 12 bolt overkill?
This is a daily driven car and rarely drag raced however I do
Like to beat on it and would like not to worry about breaking
The rear end.
?1.Will the stock 28 spline axels be stronge enough for my power?
I’m thinking the weak part is the carrier and just upgrade it & add
A rear end surport gridle.
I’m inbetween replacing the carrier / aftermarket upgrade or
Must I upgrade intire rear end?
?2.Is this a bad idea investing in my 10bolt? I’ve already
Invested in new GM axels 16K mile ago.
?3.which is the best carrier for the money?
Eaton
Alburn
Powertax
?4.I understand about gear ratios but am confussed what a spool is?
I have read the FAQ and some threads here but am still unsure.
Thanks from the rear end newbie
This is a daily driven car and rarely drag raced however I do
Like to beat on it and would like not to worry about breaking
The rear end.
?1.Will the stock 28 spline axels be stronge enough for my power?
I’m thinking the weak part is the carrier and just upgrade it & add
A rear end surport gridle.
I’m inbetween replacing the carrier / aftermarket upgrade or
Must I upgrade intire rear end?
?2.Is this a bad idea investing in my 10bolt? I’ve already
Invested in new GM axels 16K mile ago.
?3.which is the best carrier for the money?
Eaton
Alburn
Powertax
?4.I understand about gear ratios but am confussed what a spool is?
I have read the FAQ and some threads here but am still unsure.
Thanks from the rear end newbie
#3
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Upgrading to a 12 bolt is never overkill, considering that people break rears on stock power.
Don't put any money into the 10 bolt...if you have the itch to solidfy your rear, go 12 bolt or 9 inch. A spool is just a rear end that is locked - the rear wheels turn at the same time and do not slip around corners like a limited slip differential.
Don't put any money into the 10 bolt...if you have the itch to solidfy your rear, go 12 bolt or 9 inch. A spool is just a rear end that is locked - the rear wheels turn at the same time and do not slip around corners like a limited slip differential.
#4
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a 12 bolt is only overkill in a stock v6 application.
if it is financially possible for you i would not invest anymore in your 10bolt, and i would call Moser and let them answer all of your questions... 12 bolts are expensive, the least they can do is point you in the right direction on what to buy.
if it is financially possible for you i would not invest anymore in your 10bolt, and i would call Moser and let them answer all of your questions... 12 bolts are expensive, the least they can do is point you in the right direction on what to buy.
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Since you have an auto it is not as big of a deal. The manual tranny's put alot more stress on the rear end. Its quite possible that with a support girdle your rear will hold just fine. But if you are planning on upping the horsepower a 12 bolt wouldnt hurt, especially if youve got $2500 laying around.
A spool is for drag racing, great for going in a straight line since the axles are locked together. But because of this the wheel sort of hops when going around corners. so dont worry about a spool, a nice posi is all you need
A spool is for drag racing, great for going in a straight line since the axles are locked together. But because of this the wheel sort of hops when going around corners. so dont worry about a spool, a nice posi is all you need
#6
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I have a TA girdle (with the cap support bolts) and I have never had a problem. My car is at 400 hp. As mentioned above, it is the M6s that have a problem; I know someone with a stock SS LS1 that blew his out.
That should be all you need until you up the hp, IMO. Of course, anything is possible, but I would put the 2500 into the savings account and let it grow.
That should be all you need until you up the hp, IMO. Of course, anything is possible, but I would put the 2500 into the savings account and let it grow.
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#9
rear end
I presonally think that the folks that gernade there rears are plainly abusing there car to the point of breakage mainly M6 guy's.
I also think that wheel hop causes alot of stress on these rear ends so I'm ahead of the game with a my chasis mods my rear suspension is very stiff almost completely ilimiting wheel hop. this rear end stays planted.
some guys around here are putting down over 600RWHP on stock 10 bolts,
12 bolt would be nice it's not just the initail investment to concider mines a 3 sereis carrier 4 channel so I guess a ford 9" can't be concidered.
from what I've read about 12 bolts is not favorable read here that after a few hard sideways launches the ring will wine reguardless of correct setup & breakin of ring & pinon.
Thanks Guys for this infor I'm new to a solid axel car but am learning.
I also think that wheel hop causes alot of stress on these rear ends so I'm ahead of the game with a my chasis mods my rear suspension is very stiff almost completely ilimiting wheel hop. this rear end stays planted.
some guys around here are putting down over 600RWHP on stock 10 bolts,
12 bolt would be nice it's not just the initail investment to concider mines a 3 sereis carrier 4 channel so I guess a ford 9" can't be concidered.
from what I've read about 12 bolts is not favorable read here that after a few hard sideways launches the ring will wine reguardless of correct setup & breakin of ring & pinon.
Thanks Guys for this infor I'm new to a solid axel car but am learning.
#12
Originally Posted by Zepher
280rwhp in my old 96 Trans Am M6 popped 13 rear ends.
My 195rwhp Formula M5 popped 2 in less than 1 year.
My 195rwhp Formula M5 popped 2 in less than 1 year.
Ever consider that maybe its the way you're driving it??
#13
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Originally Posted by TransAminal
Damn dude...
Ever consider that maybe its the way you're driving it??
Ever consider that maybe its the way you're driving it??
it's the shock load of the rear from the manual that kills the driveline. if you want to go fast, you have to shift fast.
When the 96 was converted to auto with a stall, the rear hasn't broken yet.
Now the 96 has an 02 LS1 with heads/cam and 4K stall, and now has 430rwhp. The bald 315 BFG KD's just spin whenever you punch it under 80mph, so for now, the rear is still safe.
#14
Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Upgrading the rear is considered a basic thing, the big question is do you want to fork up the 2700+ dollars in cash not including a driveshaft and other smaller things.
where are you getting your rearend from, $2700 thats nuts, got my S60 for 2300 with DS and fluid!!
#16
Internet Mechanic
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Originally Posted by SLPSS99
where are you getting your rearend from, $2700 thats nuts, got my S60 for 2300 with DS and fluid!!
with Moser Full Spool (30 or 33 spline) 2009
with Eaton Posi (30 spline) 2239
with C-Clip Axles (30 spline only) 2111.50
Available Options:
Upgrade to 30 spline Truetrac Differential +25
Upgrade to 33 spline Truetrac Differential +65
Upgrade to 33 spline Limited Slip Posi +95
3 Channel ABS setup +100
4 Channel ABS setup (must press on own exciter rings) +75
4 Channel ABS exciter rings +100
Performance Rear Cover instead of Chrome Cover +135
1310 series Pinion Yoke instead of 1350 series Pinion Yoke -40
That so far is 2514.00
+ Taxes (even over the internet....) In CT its 6%
$2664.84 (w/taxes)
Plus Shipping, Freight around 100.00
2764.84
No GP, no special friend prices, this is what it cost to buy a Moser. Then a Denny's DS is around 400 by the time your done.
#17
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You're an A4....as long as you treat it right, you should be fine. Don't put any $$$ into the stocker though...I know a couple different A4 guys spraying it on slicks right out of the gate snd they're fine...
-Will
-Will
#18
just wheel spin
I thought my diff. was going south had it checked turns out it's just wheel spin after 5 years I've never really noticed it untill recently.
when the steering wheel is turned all the way to right it's become real noticable that the right wheel is breaking loose. the man said this is normal.
He also pointed out that my axel has shifted the left wheel is sticking out about a 1/2 " more than the right.
I think this is caused by that adjustable panhard rod adjuster locking nuts coming loose the first time I noticed this I retightened the locking nuts using the dirt as a guide.
How will I straighten this out push on the right wheel or pull on the left?
or just split the differnce?
mearsuring this?
I guess this is straightened out with a string taped to the fender at center of wheel with a small wieght attached to the string.String being the bench mark?
also will a shifted axel cause extra wheel spin when the steering wheel is completely turned?
Thanks Guy's for advicing a solid axel newbie
when the steering wheel is turned all the way to right it's become real noticable that the right wheel is breaking loose. the man said this is normal.
He also pointed out that my axel has shifted the left wheel is sticking out about a 1/2 " more than the right.
I think this is caused by that adjustable panhard rod adjuster locking nuts coming loose the first time I noticed this I retightened the locking nuts using the dirt as a guide.
How will I straighten this out push on the right wheel or pull on the left?
or just split the differnce?
mearsuring this?
I guess this is straightened out with a string taped to the fender at center of wheel with a small wieght attached to the string.String being the bench mark?
also will a shifted axel cause extra wheel spin when the steering wheel is completely turned?
Thanks Guy's for advicing a solid axel newbie
#19
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Originally Posted by TransAminal
Damn dude...
Ever consider that maybe its the way you're driving it??
Ever consider that maybe its the way you're driving it??
i've got an 85 z28 with a 383/400 tranny putting out over 500rwhp and the rear gears are 373s and a non-limited slip rear. so far i've been through 2 engine rebuilds and am on my 3rd lol. the car runs constants 11.0s ono the 1/4 and NEVER (knock on wood) had a problem with the rear.
#20
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Originally Posted by badmfkr
I thought my diff. was going south had it checked turns out it's just wheel spin after 5 years I've never really noticed it untill recently.
when the steering wheel is turned all the way to right it's become real noticable that the right wheel is breaking loose. the man said this is normal.
He also pointed out that my axel has shifted the left wheel is sticking out about a 1/2 " more than the right.
I think this is caused by that adjustable panhard rod adjuster locking nuts coming loose the first time I noticed this I retightened the locking nuts using the dirt as a guide.
How will I straighten this out push on the right wheel or pull on the left?
or just split the differnce?
mearsuring this?
I guess this is straightened out with a string taped to the fender at center of wheel with a small wieght attached to the string.String being the bench mark?
also will a shifted axel cause extra wheel spin when the steering wheel is completely turned?
Thanks Guy's for advicing a solid axel newbie
when the steering wheel is turned all the way to right it's become real noticable that the right wheel is breaking loose. the man said this is normal.
He also pointed out that my axel has shifted the left wheel is sticking out about a 1/2 " more than the right.
I think this is caused by that adjustable panhard rod adjuster locking nuts coming loose the first time I noticed this I retightened the locking nuts using the dirt as a guide.
How will I straighten this out push on the right wheel or pull on the left?
or just split the differnce?
mearsuring this?
I guess this is straightened out with a string taped to the fender at center of wheel with a small wieght attached to the string.String being the bench mark?
also will a shifted axel cause extra wheel spin when the steering wheel is completely turned?
Thanks Guy's for advicing a solid axel newbie
that's why i like the solid parts. the only adjustable parts on my car are the struts and shocks!