FEAR THE LS1

iTrader: (1)

I just got the coffin aka my Moser 12 Bolt delivered yesterday. A big *** box on a pallet that looks like a coffin lol. The damn thing with the pallet weighed 328 lbs. The delivery company shows up with a 18 wheel rig and no lift gate. What do they think I have a loading dock at my house! Anyway good thing I've been working out, the driver and I lugged it off the back of the truck and carried it into the garage.

So anyway I got the rear end in the garage and I crack open the box check everything out and grabbed the paperwork inside. As I'm reading the warranty and install information they state in bold to use "non-synthetic gear oil" only.

Why?

I have like 6 quarts for Royal Purple 75W90 Synthetic Gear Oil. Can I use this or will it cause problems? Or Can I fill it with non-synthetic oil then change over to RP after a little break in period? Anyone know?

Thanks.
Lee

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Synthetics are overrated. Probably has something to do with the limited-slip posi friction material.

-Tony

Gimp98TNT

iTrader: (21)

Yep, run the non-syn. for the break-in, then switch to the RP. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

NastySSoo

IMO, they have a lot more experience with rears than we do, they say no syn. Thats good enough for me!!Youll be happy with the 12 bolt.One less thing to worry about <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Just remember the limited slip additive!!

Chad00ws6

I just put my car on the ground yesterday with it's new 12 bolt in place with 4.10 posi <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Why do you need limited slip additive for a posi? I haven't done this to mine but I haven't got on it real hard yet that may come tonight.
<img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />

<small>[ September 06, 2002, 12:45 PM: Message edited by: Chad00ws6 ]</small>

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

They say no synthetics, I guess they know everything.... NOT. Eaton recomends Redline synthetic for use with their posi. I think I'll put more trust in their product. See Summit catalog, where Redline is reccomended. As far as I know, they dont make regular lube.

I say use regular for the breakin, then use the RP you have, with additive. Good luck.

geardoc

I say no to synthetics with rearends that have any type of clutches in them. Otherwise use it if ya want.

This comes from lots of experience. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

OBSSSD

What will synthetic fluid do to clutches?

pedaltothemetal

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by OBSSSD:
<strong>What will synthetic fluid do to clutches?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Wet clutch designs need friction to operate. Synthetics could be too slippery. Similar to our 4l60e trans needs Dexron 3 dino with their wet clutches. The additives added to these dino oils is what makes them perform as the manufacturer intended it to. This is what I have been told whenever I wanted to go the synthetics for my 12bolt or 4l60e.

Leo

bigSS

Someone was saying earlier that by switching to Redline it helped to quiet down that noisy Eaton. <img border="0" alt="[fight]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_punch.gif" />

68LSS1

Be careful too, as not all additives are compatible with synthetics.

pedaltothemetal

Picture this:
You are in the staging lanes. Then your turn to stage and do a burnout. What happened! Only one tire is smokin. The other one is supposed to get traction thru your limited slip differential. Well it's slipping cause you used sythethics and the clutch mechanism is slipping rather than transfering the power to the other wheel.

Leo

Lar's SS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Black Sunshine/ 00SS:
<strong>They say no synthetics, I guess they know everything.... NOT. Eaton recomends Redline synthetic for use with their posi. I think I'll put more trust in their product. See Summit catalog, where Redline is reccomended. As far as I know, they dont make regular lube.

I say use regular for the breakin, then use the RP you have, with additive. Good luck.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I just want to disagree with part of this, maybe it depends on the Eaton product you buy, but I just bought a Eaton clutch unit and had plenty of Red Line ready for the install until a read the little yellow card that came in the box from Eaton. DO NOT USE SYN. Fluid. I had to return it and go to the GM store. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> I've used Red Line for a long time in my Auburn, which we know is a Cone type, no clutchs.

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

Call Moser. I did and they said DO NOT use synthetic. I know...I know...I put synthetic oil in everything. Heck I won't even use hemmorhoid cream unless it's synthetic...haahahahaa j/k

Brother J

My gear installer said it's especially important to break in new gears with non-syn fluid because the higher carbon content of the dino stuff somehow helps to strengthen/harden the wear surfaces during the heat cycling process.

AL SS590 M6

iTrader: (1)

OK here's what I was told when asking about synthetic fluid for my Eaton HD that I put in my 10 bolt.
The glue or bonding agent that is used to bond the Kevlar clutch facings on, will degrade allowing the clutch facings to come off.
And coincidentially Yank said the same thing about their ST3500 converter with Kevlar clutch facings. No synthetics.