Read end trouble please help
#1
Read end trouble please help
I just bought a 2000 SS. Original owner installed 4.11 and a 12bolt, he said it was by perfect pattern and i dont know who they are or what `12 bolt or gears they use. I'm hearing some grinding and then its like it breaks loose and the grinding stops when I go forward or reverse slowly. I know drive faster lol. Well when the grinding happens I get low traction light and my brake pedal pulsates for the abs. Even going like 5 mph it pulses. Is this a gear problem? Did something break. I really hope not cause I just blew a tire and put all four on and now I'm broke. Can anyone link me to some gear swap write-ups and gear vendors. Do I just need to replace the gears? I'm searching atm and will keep reading all threads in this seciton. Just nervous and hoping for some quick replies so I know for sure what I'm in for. Gonna pull the cover off later tonight. Thanks guys.
#2
Took rear cover off. Not sure what I'm looking for but there's zero damage in there. I did notice that when i spin the pasenger wheel the drivers doesn't move and when I spin the drivers the passengers moves only a little bit. When i spin the tire one revolution the Driveshaft only goes 2 spins, not sure how that ratio things works but it's supposed to have 4.11s. Also, can you tell me which gears to ocunt the teeth on thankyou.
#3
Another update. It has 4.11s. 37/9 for gears. Wish I could find how much fluid to add. Also wish I could find that damn grinding. No matter what I do to simulate when I hear the grinding I can't get it to make th enoise in the air with the cover off. Sigh.
#4
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the fluid gets filled up to the bottom of the fill hole...on my moser 12 bolt its like 2.5 quarts so get 3 quarts. i use napa's 80/85/90 non synthetic gear oil but you have to know what kind/brand of differential you have to decide between synthetic and nonsynthtic oil and if you need additive or not. i would call the previous owner to find that out or you cana take some pictures of the diff and we can tell you what it is.
im thinking the problem is with your abs sensor at the top of the pumkin. take it out and have a look.
im thinking the problem is with your abs sensor at the top of the pumkin. take it out and have a look.
#5
It sounds to me like you might just be feeling the traction control or abs comming on which I believe can be a problem if the computer has not been changed for the new gear size. I'm not a gear pro or anything but I do know the computer can think your spinning the tires when your not due to the new gears. I would find out if the car has been tuned for the new gears, it may be as simple as having the computer adjusted.
#6
Appreciate the help. asking the original owner any questions is out of the question as we have a dispute over parts which I will not go into here. I know for a fact its not tuned due to the mph being off by a very good amount. Will the computer not being adjusted also make a grinding noise? Like causing something to thinksomethign is wrong and kicking abs on dry road and causing something to grind. Lol I know how dumb that sounds but I don't know. Thanks guys. I really appreciate it, calling some places for a tune now.
#7
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is the grinding noise the buzzing sound abs makes when it kicks on? in my car i can feel the abs kick on. did you check the abs plug? thats my guess
Last edited by LS1>girlfriend; 06-28-2007 at 02:55 PM.
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#8
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ABS shouldn't kick in on dry pavement unless you are really stabbing the brakes hard. My speedo is off haven't had it set to my 4:10's yet and i have no issues with the ABS kicking in unless i really stab the brakes hard.
#9
I'm going about 4 mph when it happens. Its not the abs kicking on (the grinding). Here's somepicks of the gears as I took the cover off again today. I noticed some damage, is it anything to worry about?
#11
On the first picture it looks like there wouldn'tbe room for a full hole and it was cut and I was wondering if they shaved the carrier thing for clearance issues. Anyone else care to chime in? I'm just shooting in the dark here lol. Hopefully it holds up for ahwhile. I didn't find any shavings or any broken pieces of anything and I changed fluid twice now. I wonder if it came like that from moser.
#12
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What damage ?? There is nothing wrong with what you have pictured, that I can see.
The cap was cut for clearence as was the housing (aka the tube oiler) hole. Nothing to worry about.
As for the differential case... those are normal rough finish, machining marks. Also, nothing to worry about... unless... you want to relieve the stress risers and lessen the possibility of case failure (which you are not using it in a manner in which I would worry about anyway).
Parrafin or DINO oil = OK (a straight 140wt or an 85/140 would be choice)
Synthetic = NO
Friction modifier = MUST USE
The cap was cut for clearence as was the housing (aka the tube oiler) hole. Nothing to worry about.
As for the differential case... those are normal rough finish, machining marks. Also, nothing to worry about... unless... you want to relieve the stress risers and lessen the possibility of case failure (which you are not using it in a manner in which I would worry about anyway).
Parrafin or DINO oil = OK (a straight 140wt or an 85/140 would be choice)
Synthetic = NO
Friction modifier = MUST USE
#14
Nah, its a moser says it right on the cover unles someone bought the cover hehe, sorry those are ll the pictures I took and I did count the teeth its got the 4.11s. Thanks for the relief chicane, I feel much better now and thats what I was thinking but I not proficient in the gear area. Oh yeah I did put some non synthetic valvoline in (all we have here) and some friction modifier.
#15
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LSXNV~ What is pictured is an EATON clutch type posi traction... not an open. And the bottom picture shows little to no wear what-so-ever.
ckd~ Looks like you are good to go brother !!
ckd~ Looks like you are good to go brother !!