Removing Traction control
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TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (48)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,354
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From: Columbus, ohio
anyone know how to remove the annoing traction control. It doenst even work with all the power im making. Its just an anoaince. Plus any weight off is good.
I have a 99 6speed if it matters.
There are two lines coming toward a cylinder, then one line to the throttle body is that the TC?
I have a 99 6speed if it matters.
There are two lines coming toward a cylinder, then one line to the throttle body is that the TC?
You can prolly just get a throttle cable for a non-TC car and use that. Mine goes straight to the TB. You may get a light on the dash though. Just call one of the GM places and tell them you need a throttle cable for your car. Tell them it doesn't have TC.
Todd
Todd
Yes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> For a non-tcs car, the cruise is ran from a box with it's own cable. Why don't you just pull the TCS fuse?
There's a 2-wire connector you could remove.
I don't know if it will cause any complaint
or not, whether it would need to be "tricked"
etc.
I would like to know more about the intended
operation of this system. Most "back-fit"
TCS systems I've seen written up, have two
elements - one, throttle (or other) torque
reduction, and two, use of the ABS system to
clamp down on the spinning wheel and
redistribute torque. I'd like to know if
this holds true for the F-body TCS. Because
what I'd really like, is to keep the torque
redistribution without the torque reduction.
Anbody in the know about the particulars?
I don't know if it will cause any complaint
or not, whether it would need to be "tricked"
etc.
I would like to know more about the intended
operation of this system. Most "back-fit"
TCS systems I've seen written up, have two
elements - one, throttle (or other) torque
reduction, and two, use of the ABS system to
clamp down on the spinning wheel and
redistribute torque. I'd like to know if
this holds true for the F-body TCS. Because
what I'd really like, is to keep the torque
redistribution without the torque reduction.
Anbody in the know about the particulars?
speed inc sells a bypass harness to elemnate tcs as far as weight goe's lay off the millers for the day maybe not <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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There is a little plastic "pulley pod" on
the passenger side wheel housing that
has the pedal*TCS cable and the cruise
cable going in, near as I've been able
to follow it. I think the pedal*TCS may
combine at the TCS module which looks to
be down low by the driver side wheel housing.
This "pulley pod" also contains a motor and
gear cluster.
Inside the pulley pod, there's a white
plastic wheel that's slotted and pulls
on a cast wheel, such that it only pulls
throttle open. I deduce that this is the
cruise mechanism and the cable that runs
it, the cruise control cable.
What the motor does, I'm not sure. I think
it may be what "slips" the throttle / pedal
when TCS wants to back off demand; this is
what the 2-wire connector powers, that I
mentioned before. However, I haven't gone
and tried driving with it disconnected to
see what it really affects (cruise or TCS).
I'm just not in the mood to set codes....
I did measure the connector at the motor side
and it's zero ohms (on the 200.0 scale). So
it looks like bare motor winding. I guess
at PWM drive for this motor, probably not
good to just short it. Don't know what
sensing of this line is done. I didn't look
close enough to see whether the gears could
be removed easily or not (thus eliminating
the mechanical control effect while leaving
the electrical signature intact), nor whether
the "output gear" would need to be staked
or anything like that.
I'd like to take a better look at the TCS
and ABS gadgetry but that needs an idle
afternoon up on the ramps, which isn't
coming any time soon.
the passenger side wheel housing that
has the pedal*TCS cable and the cruise
cable going in, near as I've been able
to follow it. I think the pedal*TCS may
combine at the TCS module which looks to
be down low by the driver side wheel housing.
This "pulley pod" also contains a motor and
gear cluster.
Inside the pulley pod, there's a white
plastic wheel that's slotted and pulls
on a cast wheel, such that it only pulls
throttle open. I deduce that this is the
cruise mechanism and the cable that runs
it, the cruise control cable.
What the motor does, I'm not sure. I think
it may be what "slips" the throttle / pedal
when TCS wants to back off demand; this is
what the 2-wire connector powers, that I
mentioned before. However, I haven't gone
and tried driving with it disconnected to
see what it really affects (cruise or TCS).
I'm just not in the mood to set codes....
I did measure the connector at the motor side
and it's zero ohms (on the 200.0 scale). So
it looks like bare motor winding. I guess
at PWM drive for this motor, probably not
good to just short it. Don't know what
sensing of this line is done. I didn't look
close enough to see whether the gears could
be removed easily or not (thus eliminating
the mechanical control effect while leaving
the electrical signature intact), nor whether
the "output gear" would need to be staked
or anything like that.
I'd like to take a better look at the TCS
and ABS gadgetry but that needs an idle
afternoon up on the ramps, which isn't
coming any time soon.



