what center section and gears
what center section and gears ok im going to order my 9 in finnally this week.
shoul i get the aluminum or nodular center section
3.89 or 4.11 gears
my car still gets driven on the street i have 26in drag radials
plan on going to a 3600 to 4000 stall
my car is mostly raced at the track my only concern with the aluminum is the expansion rate and heating the rear end up on jack stands before racing.
will the nodular be good for both street and track i am also going with a spool so im loseing my abs and traction control.
help me out here before i order.
shoul i get the aluminum or nodular center section
3.89 or 4.11 gears
my car still gets driven on the street i have 26in drag radials
plan on going to a 3600 to 4000 stall
my car is mostly raced at the track my only concern with the aluminum is the expansion rate and heating the rear end up on jack stands before racing.
will the nodular be good for both street and track i am also going with a spool so im loseing my abs and traction control.
help me out here before i order.
If your car is gonna see a decent amount of street mileage I'd suggest the nodular section. Personally I'd never run a aluminum section on a car that will see street/strip duty. Only a race only application.
Aluminum here no issues. Only have 6-7k or so street miles on it, but no issues. Was told I should be good to over 900rwhp with it (Strange S-casting) without reliability issues on the street. IMO, for a street car, you should buy the aluminum and not think about iron. These rears add enough unsprung weight in the rear...I couldn't imagine how the ride would be with another 50lbs back there. You better have some GREAT shocks if you want to be running iron on the street 
I have a Strange Pro Nodular center, Just have herd bad things about running aluminum on the street for a long period of time. I also run 4.30's and love them. I will have to get a taller tire for the track when I get my cam.
Last edited by Jays00ss; Nov 27, 2007 at 09:46 AM.
Aluminum here no issues. Only have 6-7k or so street miles on it, but no issues. Was told I should be good to over 900rwhp with it (Strange S-casting) without reliability issues on the street. IMO, for a street car, you should buy the aluminum and not think about iron. These rears add enough unsprung weight in the rear...I couldn't imagine how the ride would be with another 50lbs back there. You better have some GREAT shocks if you want to be running iron on the street
Last edited by Jays00ss; Nov 28, 2007 at 07:34 AM.
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I put 4.10 in my ten bolt. When I ordered my 9in i got 3.89s. I order aluminum. My friend has 950hp street car and aluminum. No problems in 6000 miles or so. He had no problem it will last me forever.
Edit, Just went to Stranges web site. Stranges aluminum housing is 20 pounds lighter than the Pro nodular case and 12 pounds lighter than the regular Strange S nodular case.
Also Stranges regular Aluminum section states that they should be used where "Gear set life is not an issue" and in lighter cars and non blown dragsters.
You can go with the Pro Aluminum case but that baby is $500 more than the regular aluminum case and you will have to run different components inside.
Also Stranges regular Aluminum section states that they should be used where "Gear set life is not an issue" and in lighter cars and non blown dragsters.
You can go with the Pro Aluminum case but that baby is $500 more than the regular aluminum case and you will have to run different components inside.
I originally was going to go for the iron but since I dont really do a lot of driving I just went for the Aluminum. Im not worried about it. I doubt Ill screw it up anytime soon and if it does get jacked some day Ill just get another one. Better than buying a whole rear again.
