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Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics

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Old 05-27-2015, 10:18 AM
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You have to use the yoke to measure the rear end, like in the other thread using a socket as a spacer to reach to it.

The rest is answered on our pinion angle help page.
Pinion Angle How To

Let me know if I can help you anymore.
Old 06-29-2015, 12:27 PM
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If you are looking for the highest quality, most installer friendly rear end built and sold from one location look no further than the proven Midwest Chassis fabricated nine inch. Build times have dramatically been lowered as you can see by current customers responses as they got their orders in a timely fashion. We have multiple customers from your average daily driver to some of the fastest cars in the nation.

The nice features of the Midwest Chassis fabricated nine inch that others do not offer or charge as an extra feature:
Any available width
4 position adjustable relocator style lower control arm brackets
drain plug
stock style mounted anti-sway bar brackets installed
brake hose brackets installed
1998-2002 rearend models include e-brake cable bracket installed
brake line clips welded on
chassis brake hose adapter included
housing vent
grade 8 hardware included for all brackets - no other manufacturers do this

We offer discounts on all LCA, PHB, and ARB's and can put a complete front end package together with your rear end purchase an like anything else we do here can be custom built to your specifications.


If you can't afford to purchase a rear end all at once, no problem we offer a $500 deposit and pay as you go until you can pay for the order in full. We have been doing this for years and it has helped 100's getting into the rear end of their dreams instead of settling for something else.

Any questions please feel free to contact us as we will be more than happy to go over all the possibilities. An it is racing season so feel free to contact us for advice to see if we can get you some improvements whether you are a past, current or possibly a future customer.
Old 06-29-2015, 05:54 PM
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Still do the housing and axle packages?
Old 06-30-2015, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by SCott5
Still do the housing and axle packages?
Yes we do it starts at 2099.00 give us a call we get you taken care of.
Old 07-01-2015, 08:32 AM
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Until the end of the week we are doing $100 off our base rear end package and then 10% off any additional item you purchase with it. Take advantage of this great sale while you can.
Old 07-07-2015, 01:05 PM
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We are glad to help everyone out and appreciate the orders. Take advantage of this great opportunity while you can. $100 off initial rear end orders and 10% off any additional upgrades. We now only require a $100 deposit and you can pay as you can until you are comfortable paying it off.

NO ONE, does this for anyone else like we do and we do it because we understand how expensive this hobby is because like all our customers we too are trying to keep projects alive and every little bit of help goes a long way.
Old 07-07-2015, 01:13 PM
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Is the 10% off only for current rear end orders or can existing customers get in on that
Old 07-07-2015, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jetaws6
Is the 10% off only for current rear end orders or can existing customers get in on that
10% is for anyone that purchase any item we manufacture in house until the end of this week.
Old 07-10-2015, 03:27 PM
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We here at Midwest Chassis appreciate the opportunity to work with past and current rear end customers while having the recent 10% sale. We do these sales and let customers make payments on rear ends because we know the struggles to keep our hobby alive.

If you have any questions or need assistance please feel free to contact us. We are more than happy to help anyone out.
Old 07-14-2015, 10:18 AM
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Question:

I'm considering a Midwest 9" for my T/A. It's just a street car w/ rare trips to the track. It's lowered and currently on a set of Strano springs (1.5" drop). Will I have clearance issues w/ running a 9" or are they made mainly for stock-height cars?
Old 07-14-2015, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by DANSBIRD
Question:

I'm considering a Midwest 9" for my T/A. It's just a street car w/ rare trips to the track. It's lowered and currently on a set of Strano springs (1.5" drop). Will I have clearance issues w/ running a 9" or are they made mainly for stock-height cars?
You will not have any issues with it on a lowered car.
Old 07-14-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
You will not have any issues with it on a lowered car.
Thanks for the speedy reply. I've been looking at all of the options that can be added to the rear. Lots to take in.
Old 07-14-2015, 10:33 AM
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The advantage of how our torque arm mounts gives more room over a stock style mounting rear end.
Old 07-14-2015, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2
The advantage of how our torque arm mounts gives more room over a stock style mounting rear end.
Is there any other questionable areas or negatives associated w/ moving over to a 9"? I realize it weights more and will have some additional drivetrain loss of power, but I'm not concerned w/ that. I've only ever run a 10-bolt, but at 460rwhp, it's only going to take one sticky moment to snap that poor rear. I know most folks go to a 9" when they're regularly taking it to the track. I'm just wanting a rear that I don't have to worry about breaking. I'm also looking fwd to a set of 4.10's... just a fun street car. I wasn't sure if there were any other unknowns I needed to be aware of.


Like when I put 33's on my Jeep, on the stock rims, I had to get an inch body lift, put on spacers to run the stock rims (b/c of the backspacing), etc... I found all of that out after I bought the tires. So I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before placing an order.

Sorry for the long post, but thanks for the info.
Old 07-14-2015, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DANSBIRD
Is there any other questionable areas or negatives associated w/ moving over to a 9"? I realize it weights more and will have some additional drivetrain loss of power, but I'm not concerned w/ that. I've only ever run a 10-bolt, but at 460rwhp, it's only going to take one sticky moment to snap that poor rear. I know most folks go to a 9" when they're regularly taking it to the track. I'm just wanting a rear that I don't have to worry about breaking. I'm also looking fwd to a set of 4.10's... just a fun street car. I wasn't sure if there were any other unknowns I needed to be aware of.


Like when I put 33's on my Jeep, on the stock rims, I had to get an inch body lift, put on spacers to run the stock rims (b/c of the backspacing), etc... I found all of that out after I bought the tires. So I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before placing an order.

Sorry for the long post, but thanks for the info.
There are absolutely zero negatives to going with our fab 9 I know that this more of street car but if you was to put a spool in it with a aluminum case it would actually be lighter than your factory 10bolt our fab 9 goes in just as easy as your 10 bolt came out.
Old 07-14-2015, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
There are absolutely zero negatives to going with our fab 9 I know that this more of street car but if you was to put a spool in it with a aluminum case it would actually be lighter than your factory 10bolt our fab 9 goes in just as easy as your 10 bolt came out.
Thank you very much for the info. Much appreciated.
Old 07-14-2015, 11:44 AM
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Not a problem at all and remember if you can't afford a complete rear end right now we take a non-refundable deposit and you can pay until you pay it off.
Old 07-14-2015, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2
Not a problem at all and remember if you can't afford a complete rear end right now we take a non-refundable deposit and you can pay until you pay it off.
REALLY? :hmm:


I've got the money for it now... but that is a nice offer. I appreciate yal doing that.
Old 07-14-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DANSBIRD
Is there any other questionable areas or negatives associated w/ moving over to a 9"? I realize it weights more and will have some additional drivetrain loss of power, but I'm not concerned w/ that. I've only ever run a 10-bolt, but at 460rwhp, it's only going to take one sticky moment to snap that poor rear. I know most folks go to a 9" when they're regularly taking it to the track. I'm just wanting a rear that I don't have to worry about breaking. I'm also looking fwd to a set of 4.10's... just a fun street car. I wasn't sure if there were any other unknowns I needed to be aware of.


Like when I put 33's on my Jeep, on the stock rims, I had to get an inch body lift, put on spacers to run the stock rims (b/c of the backspacing), etc... I found all of that out after I bought the tires. So I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before placing an order.

Sorry for the long post, but thanks for the info.
My car is a street/auto-x car, but the rear was toast and I didn't want to put more money into the 10-bolt. I've got 1000 miles on the rear so far (500 break-in miles) 99% street so far. It's nice to know that I can't break it, and the install was terrifyingly simple. Also, my butt dyno didn't notice the parasitic loss of power, mostly because I can dump the clutch from much higher rpms.
Old 07-15-2015, 09:35 AM
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Dumb question... but I've never gotten LCAs for my car (despite the car being lowered). If I get them now, will they transfer over to the 9" or will the 9" call for a different set of LCAs?


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