Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics
#861
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chehalis, WA
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I've heard a few "thumps" coming from that area. I thought it was because Illinois apparently hasn't figured out how to pave a road though.
I'll have to get under there and have a look see.
I'll have to get under there and have a look see.
Last edited by supernaturalta; 08-26-2008 at 07:08 PM.
#865
Here is pics of my midwest 9inch powdercoated red locally with most of my suspension components. I went with an Aluminum third member as well as welding the brake holding lines to the rear myself. I even went as far as having the backing plates powdercoated as well. Axles would have been done already but put the backing plates on the WRONG SIDE, lol.
****Make sure you putting the backing plates on the correct side****
I'll post more pics soon and I could even do a HOW-TO install if you guys would like??
Something I might add as well, on the third member if you drill the holes out slighly (have to go see what bit I used) especially the hole at the 6 ad 12o'clock on the aluminum member it will be much easier for it to fit over the studs. My third member will slid onto the studs very easy now and there is no play once it is on.
Here is a pic of the suspension and Driveshaft. BTW this midwest TQ arm is AT LEAST twice as light as my Spohn TQ arm.
****Make sure you putting the backing plates on the correct side****
I'll post more pics soon and I could even do a HOW-TO install if you guys would like??
Something I might add as well, on the third member if you drill the holes out slighly (have to go see what bit I used) especially the hole at the 6 ad 12o'clock on the aluminum member it will be much easier for it to fit over the studs. My third member will slid onto the studs very easy now and there is no play once it is on.
Here is a pic of the suspension and Driveshaft. BTW this midwest TQ arm is AT LEAST twice as light as my Spohn TQ arm.
LOL I feel better I was not the only one I just resend it to erick and he did it right for me. I will be getting mine tomorrow from FEDEX.
Thanks ERIC
#866
Banned
iTrader: (36)
my rear hit the reinforcement under the car on the back side of the back seats...i simply cut out that area and painted it...no problems since...mighty your car is low and the tq arm design that mounts tothe top of the rear makes clearence a problem...if its hitting the tank might only be the option to raise it up some....or get stiffer spring/ adjustable shock
the rear needs to be able to move freely to properly allow suspension to work and the car to hook
the rear needs to be able to move freely to properly allow suspension to work and the car to hook
#870
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ft. Worth-ish
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My install went smooth. The only problem so far is that I have a vibration on deceleration at highway speeds. The shop that installed the rear talked to Eric and he said adj. LCAs would fix this. Just an FYI for people going back with non-adj. LCAs. Might as well order them from the get go.
Pics are on my fquick page:
http://www.fquick.com/garages/Chevro...SS/2000/13777/
Pics are on my fquick page:
http://www.fquick.com/garages/Chevro...SS/2000/13777/
#871
10 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Central California
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so who else's hits the gas tank? This makes me nervous because i have a turbo back there. I will hopefully be installing the rear in the next week or two but i dont want any suprises...
#872
its not a gas tank issue... the only clearance problem there could ever be is the cars that were manufactured with a brace in the seat back area. with a car that is lowered 1.5 inches or more the top of the torque arm may contact it on bumps.
and yes... if anyone plans to use the relocator holes or adjust pinion angle more than the stock setting, a set of adjustable lca's is the only way to go. when you roll the pinion up or down it will change the wheelbase. the adjustability in the torque arm joints, the height adjustable pivot link, and a set of adjustable lca's will get the rearend as best as it can be. i offer lightweight chromemoly adjustable lca's that use Aurora brand teflon lined rod ends. these are very streetable and are a huge benefit to how the suspension works. they are a steal at 175.00, or 285.00 with a phb. always in stock in black powdercoat or plain.
and yes... if anyone plans to use the relocator holes or adjust pinion angle more than the stock setting, a set of adjustable lca's is the only way to go. when you roll the pinion up or down it will change the wheelbase. the adjustability in the torque arm joints, the height adjustable pivot link, and a set of adjustable lca's will get the rearend as best as it can be. i offer lightweight chromemoly adjustable lca's that use Aurora brand teflon lined rod ends. these are very streetable and are a huge benefit to how the suspension works. they are a steal at 175.00, or 285.00 with a phb. always in stock in black powdercoat or plain.
#873
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (59)
one problem i dont have is with my bmr non adjustales. there is no vibration in the lowest hole and my rear wheel is centered in the opening and the car tracks straight.
you guys like me that clearanced the seat back. take out your springs and put the rear up against wherever it stops now and check the gas tank clearance on the back of the housing.
i am going to get ahold of some larger bump stops
you guys like me that clearanced the seat back. take out your springs and put the rear up against wherever it stops now and check the gas tank clearance on the back of the housing.
i am going to get ahold of some larger bump stops
#874
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chehalis, WA
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, as far as adjustment, is that something we can eyeball or set with a tape measure, or is that something better left to an alignment shop? I mean, I already have an adjustable panhard bar, but I just set it to the stock length and the rear seems pretty well centered and the car tracks straight. You had my pinion angle set at 2 degrees and the LCAs in the 2nd hole down; now the car doesn't seem to corner quite the same as before. You're saying the adjustable LCAs (set longer than stock I presume) should fix that right?
By the way, one thing I have really taken a notice to, is that any front end brake dive I had before is completely gone. That torque arm is awesome!
#876
yes... anyone who has ordered a rearend can get those prices on a set of lca's or phb. and they are powdercoated. black powdercoat or unpainted are in stock.
an adjustable lca is always gonna be better to be ablew to set a rearend straight, correct wheelbase, correct pinion angle, etc. a tape measure is fine if you know how to do the measurements. if you do get the rearend close, a 4 wheel align is never a bad idea, either. specifically ask for the tech to set the "thrust angle". everybody keep in mind that the stock wheelbase/rearend was just a bit toward the rear of center. if you are centered now is no big issue, these rearends/torque arms were built to be at factory location. torque arm length and height will have a slight affect on corner handling, and drag racing launch. shorter arms typically for drag racers, longer for handling/corners.
an adjustable lca is always gonna be better to be ablew to set a rearend straight, correct wheelbase, correct pinion angle, etc. a tape measure is fine if you know how to do the measurements. if you do get the rearend close, a 4 wheel align is never a bad idea, either. specifically ask for the tech to set the "thrust angle". everybody keep in mind that the stock wheelbase/rearend was just a bit toward the rear of center. if you are centered now is no big issue, these rearends/torque arms were built to be at factory location. torque arm length and height will have a slight affect on corner handling, and drag racing launch. shorter arms typically for drag racers, longer for handling/corners.
#877
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chehalis, WA
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eric, out of curiousity, have you ever weighed the stock transmission crossmember vs. your chromemoly crossmember, and the stock torque arm vs. yours (short and long)? All I know is it seems like the stock pieces were really heavy and your parts were featherweights in comparison.
Oh yeah, I'm sending you a PM now about the LCAs/PHB.
#878
Staging Lane
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just wanted to add that the Aurora rod ends Eric uses on his suspension parts are liquid in movement. They are so smooth. I've got some single-adjustable rod end/poly G2 LCAs from LGM that I replaced with Eric's LCAs and the rod ends on the LGMs are complete junk compared to these Auroras. Verrrry niiiice!