Help me spec out a 9"
What options to get with the 9"? All I know is I want a locker.
What else is worth the upgrade? Nodular case and gun drilled axles?
Thanks,
Justin
Justin
Justin
Locker (just changing it out for a spool now)
AL. center section
35 spline gun drilled and star flanged axles
As light or a hair ligher then a 12 bolt, a lot stronger, and much better gear ratio choices. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />
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Goose,
SPECS HERE
Justin
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
<strong> heh, I'll be over there soon placing my order. <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" /> How about you just sell me yours? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Could you shoot me a rough price a 9" speced out like yours? ls1@fryrice.com
Goose,
SPECS HERE
Justin </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You have mail!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Paul
The 9" rear has a mind boggling choice of gear ratios.
You can build multiple 'pumpkins' and change them very quickly.
The stock N case, or aftermarket cases are extremely strong, but so is the standard case. I doubt very seriously a street/strip car will break one. If you feel you must have a spool, steep gear, special case, or all of these... then build a pumpkin for the strip only and put it in when you run. For the street use a standard case, streetable gear, and Detroit locker... it'll last forever even with abusive street driving.
Use 31 splines or better.
Good luck
Dave
Edit: A note on aluminum cases...
They are cool for a strip car, but like I posted, set it up strip only and take it out for street driving. The aluminum cases flex excessively and wear your gears quickly with extended use. Aluminum also work hardends and will become brittle with repeated heat cycling.
Moser housing
Strange nodular case
31 spline Moser axles
Tractech 31 spline 'soft' locker
4.11 strange gears
Center section is held in by 8 or 10 studs, just take them out, take a large flathead screwdriver, and pry out the center section. (after removing tq arm, and ds)
<strong> Aluminum also work hardends and will become brittle with repeated heat cycling. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Really? I wonder how my block and heads have lived so long then. No probs with my aluminum center section. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ratio411:
<strong> Aluminum also work hardends and will become brittle with repeated heat cycling. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Really? I wonder how my block and heads have lived so long then. No probs with my aluminum center section. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That is why your block is sleeved. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Who makes the aluminum case? I think Strange... doesn't matter, the manufacturer even has a disclaimer saying what I posted. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />
Dave
I just relized I can not retiain my 3 channel ABS with the 9". <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />



