Ive had this 12bolt sitting on the floor for 2 weeks now and I finally got the chance to put it in yesterday. I started on it Sunday, but didnt get the chance to finish due to not reading the parts I would need list. I didnt have the nuts I would need for the backing plates and the instructions told me I would need to supply them. Anyway, heres the specs on the 12 bolt.

Moser 12 bolt, 33 spline axles, spool, 4:11 gears, Performance TA cover and stud kit, 1350 billet yoke, 4 channel ABS.

Before anyone asks, I ordered it with the ABS so if I ever decided to change out the spool I would have the provisions in place, at this point I dont see it serving much purpose, but for 100 bucks its worth it to know its there.

The install is straight forward for the most part, removed brakes,LCAs,swaybar,torque arm, sat the rear on an engine table and removed the shock bolts and lowered the rear from under the car. I didnt order my Moser with the backing plates, which I would STRONGLY reccomend doing for anyone else. Its not a huge deal, and now that I have done one it would be much easier, but being my first there were some wrenches thrown around. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" /> Install went just like removal, only in reverse order.

I did have a chance to weigh my 10 bolt fully loaded before stripping it to transfer parts to the 12 bolt. It weighed in at 149.5 lbs. The 12 bolt fully loaded with all the parts from the stock rear weighed in at 178lbs. Both rears were dry and remember I have a spool not a posi so I saved some weight there. The axles weighed 2lbs more per side for the 12 bolt, but its well worth it considering the beef I have back there now.

Once I got everything torqued properly I broke in the rear according to Mosers instructions, forward/reverse on the lift for 2 to 3 mins each and then a 10 mile drive on the street with varying speeds, let it cool for one hour, then did a 5k dump on my Nitto 315s. Ahh it was music to my ears to hear the engine rev that high and dump the clutch. Its nice to know theres no worries with that glass rear now.

As fo the spool on the street, its livable. It flat out sux in parking lots and tight corners, but I have actually found myself laughing when the tires are chirping. I would rather deal with this than the tow bill home from the track with another broken rearend. Normal driving is the same as before, and so far the 4:11s make less noise than my 3:73s in my 10bolt. The car rides the same in normal driving and you can only tell its back there when I pull into a parking space or a tight corner as I said above. The rear of the car is sitting a tad bit higher than before, I think this is the revised spring perches on the 12 bolt..


The only special tips I would suggest is to make sure you have 2 3" clamps for the sway bar or the kit from BMR. I used 3" clamps and simply spaced out the current brackets I had, This worked out well. I did have to position the sway bar slightly different to keep it from sitting on the TA cover. I used Valvoline 80w90 CONVENTIONAL gear oil. Also had to purchase #447 U joint from NAPA for the new yoke. Replacing that U joint is a whole new thread itself. It would have been fine if I had a real torch.

All in all, if you are considering a spool and do a good bit of drag racing, I would say go for it. If your car is your only driver and you take your girl out in it, I would consider something else. Hope this helps some of you out there make your decisions a lil easier.


A big thanx to Paul @ Thunder Racing. He pointed me in the right direction and got my 12 bolt to me within 4 days. Thunder ALWAYS has TOP NOTCH service AND pricing. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />


O yea,,,,, 4:11s ROCK!!!!!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I cant wait for my first 6k dump on a 200 shot buhahahahaha

 

ALso, I will dyno the car this week to see what/ if any power loss I suffered with the 12 bolt. I forgot to mention I did paint the 12 bolt with about 6 thin coats or High Temp black enamel. Looks awesome, and I know Im protecting my 2k investment atleast a lil bit.

Big thanx to Mike for pointing out my ****** on the brakes, and to the"crew" for the use of the tools I didnt have. Us broom biaatches dont use many Snap On tools on a regular basis <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Glad to hear you got it in there Ron. How does the car feel with the 4:10's compared to the 3:73's?

 

Josh, I guess both the 4:11s and 3:73s would feel better than the feeling you get pushing your POS down the driveway <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />


BTW, this is Ron <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Car pulls like a totally different animal. I cant wait to feel it at the track. BTW, take credit for your own comments Mikey <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Cool man. Your car is pretty much bullet proof now isn't it? Good luck at the track!!

 

Thanks for the rundown. I'll be doing a 12-bolt this summer and its always nice to see the comments/experiences of others. Oh, and the weight info is helpful too.

 

I'm interested to see what kind of power loss youll see. Try to get it dynoed at the same place as your previous one to be as consistant as possible <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />