99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Alright guys, need a bit of assistance to here to figure out what's going on with my car.

First and foremost I'm having an issue w/the car at the track. When I launch the car, at just about any RPM (2500-3500), I dump the clutch and the car bogs down for a second then takes off. It's almost like a hesitation as if the car is going to stall, then all of the sudden it realizes IT NEEDS TO GO! It's like my car is mentally handicapped...any suggestions? Stock clutch in the car and it has almost 54K on it. Could the slave and master cylinders be the culprits?


Secondly the other issue with the car is somewhat strange. Driving the car around town, if I'm coming to a stop sign or stop light, I usually just take the car out of gear and coast. The issue at hand is when I take the car out of gear the rpms drop and either hesitate at 1100RPMs then fall down to my normal idle, OR the car sticks at 1100RPMs until the car comes to a complete stop, then the tach drops down to idle. I know its not the tach gauge itself, because I'm hearing the engine itself do these things.

I appreciate any help/tips/suggestions. Thanks in advance <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

NB99Z

iTrader: (9)

Check your Battery. The hold down broke on mine and it would fly back and short out on the can for the A/C. Then sit back down where it belonged.

On your 2nd problem. I think that is normal. My car has always done that.

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NB99Z:
<strong> Check your Battery. The hold down broke on mine and it would fly back and short out on the can for the A/C. Then sit back down where it belonged.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nope, the battery is strapped down nice and snug.

AZ28driver

Has any of your friends watched you launch the car at the track that could tell you what it looks like form the outside? For example are you sure your not spinning a little at first and then hooking up once the tire heats up a little? Have you tired launching at a higher RPM?

John98LS1

iTrader: (6)

mine does the same problem 1,,, but only on the street.. at the track im 3800 rpm and i goo.

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

I've tried launching at a higher RPM. I just sit there and spin. (3500-4000rpms)

I have traction control on my car and my bogging issue is similiar to if you were trying launch with the traction control engaged, except its not. I'm 100% positive of this because I did it the first time I was ever at the track and looked like an ***. Anyway, I dump the clutch the car "jumps", then bogs, then finally decides to go!

AZ28driver

TTT...anyone else have any suggestions?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Gears - as in 3:73's or 4:10's. BTW I have the same problem.

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

I've got the stock 3.42's in my car.

Just seems like I can't find a happy median between either bogging down or sitting & spinning.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I think they put those gears in us on purpse so it would be difficult to do. Less chance of warranty repairs.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You will get a little added initial acceleration
when you dump the clutch, as you transfer the
stored rotating energy into the back end of the
drivetrain. After the front and back are at the
same RPM, all you have for further acceleration
is engine output torque.

While it feels like a "bog", it's probably just
the limited initial excess "flywheel" energy
(relative to back end) being depleted.

Of course, the engine controls are not
instantaneously-responding either. There might
be some lag in getting to the optimum power
tune. If you are not dumping at true WOT (which
2500RPM would certainly not be) then you are
still in closed-loop operation, and closed-loop
doesn't keep up with throttle or RPM transients
very well. In closed loop you will have a "lag"
as the O2 loop tries to close and this may
"argue" with power enrichment (?)

<small>[ March 12, 2003, 11:45 AM: Message edited by: jimmyblue ]</small>

Lar's SS

What tires, or did I miss that?

You’re on a stock clutch, street tires, with 3:42's? Oh it warms my heart, the old days.

I think your doing the best you can with what you have.

Here's your problem, we've all been there so save tons of cash and do what most of us do. BTW, your going to need cash, speed cost money.

First, what do you want to do? How fast you want to go? How much can you spend?
Easy stuff first, Tires, you need more traction to launch harder and get those 60’s down. Drag Radials or Nitto's are a good start. If you’re mostly racing at the track for improvements, get some E/T streets which you can drive on the DRY road.
Now you can launch harder, but you'll want more gear. 4:10 or 3:73's, are you doing motor work in the future, how fast are you planning to go? 4:10 are very popular.
Now you'll need a new clutch set up. If your lucky, (57K probably not) you still have the stock one but because you have probably just toasted it just as you get all of the above figured out, you now need a clutch. There are several good one's out than, good at the track and very streetable. You’ll need to do the slave at the same time. With a good torque arm and racing drive shaft, you’ll be doing pretty well. Oh, don’t forget the suspension stuff too.
Now the bad news, you just blow the 10 bolt on of the car. It lasted pretty long over 57K miles plus several 12 sec runs, but now it’s trashed and you’re getting towed home from the track. Time for a 12 bolt. Now this is very defining moment, you could fix the 10 bolt and continue to be the fastest guy in the neighborhood, or go for John Force status at the track. Now we all know the only thing wrong with ole John is he drives a Ford, but he’s the coolest, so we know what way you’re going to go. So save up for the 12 bolt so that when the 10 bolt goes BOOM, you can just chuckle and order one. Now your flying, into the 11’s after you new head and cam package is installed, but are consistently turning high 11 passes and the tower tells you to report to tech, and they tell you that you need a roll bar, now leave the track. And on, and on, and faster and faster………then comes the day you add and up all your receipts and realize you have past the point on no return. That’s the time you realize you’ve spent more on mods and upgrades that you paid for the car. Than you think back and you wish all you had was a little bog and rev problem. It's a sickness my friend, put down and step away from the newly arrived SLP catalog, God bless their little hearts and take a deep breath.

Welcome to the club.

Disclaimer: The above comments were made without the complete understand and/or lack of knowledge of your marital status. Therefore, the completed depth of these problems and the degree of difficulty in get them done in the timely and fun manner can not be determined at this time. That’s a whole different club. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the replies guys.

Basically all I'm looking to do is get into the 12's.

The best run I've gotten out of my car is 13.3@108.9 on street tires. (Kumho Ecstas)

Yes, I understand I need some Nitto DR's for the car in order to cut my really bad 2.2 60ft time.

I've got 54K on the clutch, so that'll be replaced within the next few months with a SPEC stage III. Should I replace my master and slave cylinders when I get the clutch done?

Can't get E/T streets with my setup because A) I'll fry my current clutch or B) break my 10 bolt. I would never anty up for a 12bolt in my car because I couldn't see myself spending $2500 on one.

And for future reference, I'm not married. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

<small>[ March 12, 2003, 03:00 PM: Message edited by: 99BackNBlackZ28 ]</small>