Best all-around 9" diff?
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TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 518
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From: Long Island, NY
Best all-around 9" diff? So I've been thinking of going the 9" route...
Slowly but surely I'm building a very well rounded car. I'd like to get into RR & AX, run down the 1/4 every now and then while still being civil and comfortable on the street. Most engine bolt-on's are done as well as most bolt-on chassis mods (Koni/Strano's, SFC's, LCA's & APHR) and soon enough a C5 brake set-up will be thrown on. Ultimately the car will go the forced induction route (D1 set-up, but the APS TT kit looks nice!).
What would be the best diff. to get in a 9" that could handle it all? ...something that's nice and quiet/smooth on the street (no ratcheting/clanking, etc.), will handle well and survive some decent hp oneday.
What other options should I look at???
Iron vs. Aluminum center section?
I'm not all up on 9", so any and all info. you could give would be great!
Slowly but surely I'm building a very well rounded car. I'd like to get into RR & AX, run down the 1/4 every now and then while still being civil and comfortable on the street. Most engine bolt-on's are done as well as most bolt-on chassis mods (Koni/Strano's, SFC's, LCA's & APHR) and soon enough a C5 brake set-up will be thrown on. Ultimately the car will go the forced induction route (D1 set-up, but the APS TT kit looks nice!).
What would be the best diff. to get in a 9" that could handle it all? ...something that's nice and quiet/smooth on the street (no ratcheting/clanking, etc.), will handle well and survive some decent hp oneday.
What other options should I look at???
Iron vs. Aluminum center section?
I'm not all up on 9", so any and all info. you could give would be great!
Nod iron center is more geared toward drag racing where strength is paramount, alum center more toward road racing where light weight helps a lot. Sounds to me like you'd be well off with an aluminum center section, Tru-Trac posi and 31 spline axles.
You can go either alum or nodular iron, both of them are strong. The alum center saves 14 to 15 pounds and looks cool under there. The nodular iron saves you $155.00. Either way, you'll have a strong rear. Bob
alot of the customers i have sold 9 inch rears for ax/rr have been leaning toward the trac-lock posi due to its bias in turns. some have noted the truetrac diff will tend to unload the inside tire. when i was in my autox days, i did run a car with a 9 inch and a trac-lock. it worked just fine. the truetrac diff was not available then, so i never heard this in that time.
the midwest fabricated 9 inch with an aluminum center will be the same weight as the stock 10 bolt, and will have no t/a clearance problems with the tunnel, especially in lowered cars. chromemoly t/a included and is mounted with a poly bushed pivot link for smooth, quiet operation. best value for a bolt-in 9 inch rearend.
the midwest fabricated 9 inch with an aluminum center will be the same weight as the stock 10 bolt, and will have no t/a clearance problems with the tunnel, especially in lowered cars. chromemoly t/a included and is mounted with a poly bushed pivot link for smooth, quiet operation. best value for a bolt-in 9 inch rearend.
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TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
From: Mehlingen, Germany
Joe Just incase you haven't seen what I posted on Frrax
If you order a 9inch housing at least get it with the A20 tapered roller bearings and not the ball bearing default option.
Also the truetrac with the preload is the way to go . Commonly called the race version . For me the race version was a cheaper price. I have ran the locker, traclok and now the trutrac. By far the the trutrac is superior. The Locker required a little more finess then I could give. If I couldn't give it was unforgiving at the the most inopportune times.
For the third member be careful, I had a 30 year old third member case explode . It wasn't pretty nor cheap to repair.
If you would like to know a reputable builder that has all the parts to build a thid member the way you want just PM me. The company is not a sponsor here, so I don't want get my warning meter lit up . It was like 1100USD to my door in Germany.
If you order a 9inch housing at least get it with the A20 tapered roller bearings and not the ball bearing default option.
Also the truetrac with the preload is the way to go . Commonly called the race version . For me the race version was a cheaper price. I have ran the locker, traclok and now the trutrac. By far the the trutrac is superior. The Locker required a little more finess then I could give. If I couldn't give it was unforgiving at the the most inopportune times.
For the third member be careful, I had a 30 year old third member case explode . It wasn't pretty nor cheap to repair.
If you would like to know a reputable builder that has all the parts to build a thid member the way you want just PM me. The company is not a sponsor here, so I don't want get my warning meter lit up . It was like 1100USD to my door in Germany.
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