UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

Subframe bushings are #1. They connect the subframe to the car. The stock rubber ones allow the subframe to shift etc. Every other component to eliminate wheelhop is far less effective/almost useless if the subframe itself is still moving.

#2 Trailing arms.

#3 Toe links.

Do those 3 and you will see a BIG improvement.

Midnight00SS

ok cool, wut about putting drag radials on?

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

I did that as well. They will help a bit also. But some people dont like to run them etc. so I left them out.

So yeah...they are a good idea. The only ones worth buying for daily driving use are the NT555R's. They will last 10-15k and can be driven in the rain. They are not quite as effective on the track...but if you run an nto5r or another more aggressive/even softer DR for DD most are only getting about 3k out of them and are horrible in the rain.

Midnight00SS

ok cool, this morning i hit her again but this time with traction control off and in competive mode, hit the button twice, still wheel hopped, but not as bad, yea im sure those DRs are expenisve, wut size would i need to keep the speedo the same? or close to stock?

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

They make the nt555r in the stock 275/40/20 size as well as in the size I have 305/35/20.

You can run a 305/35/20 on a stock rim but it does nothing for you because the contact patch is only as wide as the rim. It would not be the best fit and will have some bulge and could possibly be unsafe...but some do it.
I have 20 x 11 COR rims in the rear so I went with the 305's. 20 x 9 for front rims so I used my 275 pirellis up front.

If your keeping your stock rims buy 275 nitto nt555rs. If you go to an aftermarket rim you would need at least a 10 inch wide rim to run a 305 or 315 correctly.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Here is a calc. You dont want to be off more than a half inch in diameter from stock as a general rule.

Here is a comparison of my 305's vs stock (from the link)...I actually picked up a bit of gearing lol.

Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
275/40-20 4.3in 14.3in 28.7in 90.0in 704 0.0%
305/35-20 4.2in 14.2in 28.4in 89.2in 710 -0.9%

BTW...every time I start my car I turn off all the nannies. All they have been known to do is help break axles.
Plenty of people have broken axles using the launch control. I hardly ever drive my car somewhere without flooring it at least once so I always just turn everything off as my start up procedure lol.
It is good for nothing and with some practice you can easily out launch the axle breaking launch mode.
The only time I would suggest running the nannies is in the rain.

Dark SS

iTrader: (6)

The toe links and trailing arms almost eliminated my wheel hop. If you want drag radials I suggest buying a set of 18" C6 Z06 front rims and running those at the track. The 20" NT555r was almost useless on a track. I haven't tried the 20" M/T's but they may be better. If I had kept the car I would have went with a 18" set up and a shorter tire.

It's true, the rear axles are made of glass. Pretty much the entire drive line behind the trans is weak when you have a manual.

Midnight00SS

im gonna stay with the stock rims in the back so ill just get the 275s,

So how do i correctly turn off all the nannies before i start, i know i hit the button twice, but then i have to hold it down completly???

it cant be that much weaker than my old 7.5 rear in my 4th gen lol

Dark SS

iTrader: (6)

Hold the button down for 7 seconds and the T/C and stability control lights will turn on on the dash. Everything is off.

The rear end isn't weaker but every thing around it is. I broke almost every part of the drive line with bolt-on power. IMO I'd rather have the 4th gens weak rear then all the weak components in the 5th gen drive line.

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

You can probably get away with (although some havent) just running the 275 DR's at the track. It is unlikely that you will break something with a mild 20 inch drag radial. Some people have broken parts on street tires on the street...others have aggressively launched completely stock drivelines with 17 inch slicks and been fine.

If you want to do some hard launches with a 17 or 18 inch rim and tire combo you will need a driveshaft and axles at minimum. That will run you 2000-2500 depending on brand and style etc. The stock axles have been known to break as well as the stock U-joints and the bolts connecting the driveshaft to the rear end.

Their are plenty of better DR's for the strip over the 555r's...but if you plan on daily driving them and keeping the stock 20's their is no other logical option (unless you dont mind replacing them every 3k and having no wet traction). The 555r's gave me a noticeable traction increase on the street and will help you a bit at the track. I went with my 305/35/20 555r set up to try and keep the car controllable on the street with future power upgrades. As Dark SS said...if you want something for the strip the 20s will not be worth a damn...just not enough sidewall. You need a 17 or 18 inch rim and tire combo....but you will need supporting mods to handle them.

1ltcap

so what happened when you downshifted that's making you tell him not to do that?

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

Downshifting to a lower gear and bringing the revs up in turn using it to slow down the car. Arguably not a good idea for a fresh engine.

He is just talking about his break in procedure....

Midnight00SS

ok cool im gonna give that a try


im not gonna track the car, just using it for the street and shows, the car wont be launched or beat on, only WOT once in a blue moon

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

LOL...yeah right.

Midnight00SS

Seriously lol

AJG383

Dude, where's the pics of your new car?

wise690

Just over 5100 miles on my car now and no issues. Every break-in method I've read advises against downshifting and bringing the rpms up to decelerate. Not a good idea on a new motor and new rings.

Any reason this would be bad?

glennster

iTrader: (1)

Never use your engine to slow your car down, push the clutch in. Vacuum can pull a load of oil past the rings plus why load the rotating assembly the opposite of what its intended for. I think motors are for power and brakes are for stopping.

1ltcap

i had only asked him that, because the way i interpreted it, was that he had done that, and caused a problem.

i actually had a couple ford service techs tell me that while i'm doing no harm in running a proper break-in on my car, it wasn't necessary, as all of these coyotes are "spun up" at the factory. those are his words.

Midnight00SS

good to hear, is there anyway of running my VIN number to see wut the production number of my car is and where it was built?

Midnight00SS

I have plenty of pics for u guys, but everytime i try to upload them it says failed??