View Poll Results: Do you, or would you use a "Trickel Charger" on your car during winter storage?
Yes
22
59.46%
No, just leave it in the car and jump it in the spring
3
8.11%
No, Take out your battery and put it inside your house instead
12
32.43%
Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll
Battery Trickel Charger, Do you use one for winter storage?
#42
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a maintainer on my car, the lawn mower, and both of the boat batteries. Never had a weak battery. It also helps extend the battery life as it does not let it discharge over the winter every year.
Scott
Scott
#43
So you can hook it up and leave on the car with the battery still hooked up. My car usually sits 2-3 months here in ohio. I also have a redtop battery.
#44
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Ok I leave it in and start it between once every two weeks to once a month. I like starting it and warming it up completely and throwing in a few LIGHT revs. My reason for starting it is: Have you ever let your car sit long enough that rust forms on you rotors. Now think. What out there is telling your rust to not form on your cylinder walls. I let my car run at least 30 minutes and the revs are to just stretch the motor a little. I don't know... I also did this a few weeks after my oil change and I got some oil on my LT headers down by the oil filter. After running it for a while I got some blue smoke in the garage. This tells me if its hot enough to burn the oil off its hot enough to evaporate all the water out of the little places. O and I also start a fire in the stove when I start the car so the garage is like 72* when I start the car. Seems to work for me.
#45
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think rotors and cylinder walls are two different things though.
I've seen rust form on rotors pretty much overnight or at least within a day or two. Your rotors are exposed to water/moisture and if you're from a a place that has snow often, like Ohio, then there is salt from the roads.
If you drive your vehicle long enough to get it heated up and burn off all of the moisture and then park it while it's hot there shouldn't be a problem with rust. Whenever you start your engine you are introducing moisture from the air into it until it gets hot enough to burn all of the moisture off. All that moisture that is being drawn in is often apparant when it drips out of the exhaust pipe within a few minutes of the car being started. Oil analysis labs say before getting an oil sample to always drive your car at least 30 min to burn off water after starting and if you can't drive it and can only let it idle for 30 min not to even start it at all.
Plus your engine is being coated in oil constantly(especially in an LS1 Fbody that likes to suck in oil through the PCV. JMHO
I've seen rust form on rotors pretty much overnight or at least within a day or two. Your rotors are exposed to water/moisture and if you're from a a place that has snow often, like Ohio, then there is salt from the roads.
If you drive your vehicle long enough to get it heated up and burn off all of the moisture and then park it while it's hot there shouldn't be a problem with rust. Whenever you start your engine you are introducing moisture from the air into it until it gets hot enough to burn all of the moisture off. All that moisture that is being drawn in is often apparant when it drips out of the exhaust pipe within a few minutes of the car being started. Oil analysis labs say before getting an oil sample to always drive your car at least 30 min to burn off water after starting and if you can't drive it and can only let it idle for 30 min not to even start it at all.
Plus your engine is being coated in oil constantly(especially in an LS1 Fbody that likes to suck in oil through the PCV. JMHO
#47
I have a simple 2 amp/10 amp charger. They claim that it won't over charge. My plan is to keep the battery in the car and attach the charger every couple weeks.
I would prefer to keep the charger attached and running all winter, but I'm not sure if that is a good idea.
I have heard great stuff about the CTEK charger/maintainer, but they are $90 CDN and my charger was $30 (reg. $55) CDN.
I guess I'm posting in case this helps someone and because I'm still trying to figger out if I should return what I have and get something else...
What I have:
What I think I want (i.e. CTEK)
I would prefer to keep the charger attached and running all winter, but I'm not sure if that is a good idea.
I have heard great stuff about the CTEK charger/maintainer, but they are $90 CDN and my charger was $30 (reg. $55) CDN.
I guess I'm posting in case this helps someone and because I'm still trying to figger out if I should return what I have and get something else...
What I have:
•Detects current battery charge level and automatically adjusts output
•Output of battery charger will decrease as charge level of battery increases
•Will not over charge battery or spark when clamps touch
•2A/6.5A/10A charger -- 2A slow, 6.5A fast, 10A peak
•This charger will not work for charging batteries in series. It has a built in feature that shuts the unit down when the battery is fully charged and it will not charge all the batteries.
•Output of battery charger will decrease as charge level of battery increases
•Will not over charge battery or spark when clamps touch
•2A/6.5A/10A charger -- 2A slow, 6.5A fast, 10A peak
•This charger will not work for charging batteries in series. It has a built in feature that shuts the unit down when the battery is fully charged and it will not charge all the batteries.
What I think I want (i.e. CTEK)
•Compact four-step, fully automatic charger for 12V batteries
•Can be connected for months at a time - ideal for seasonal vehicles
•Rain and splash-proof, can be used outdoors
•Charges even drained batteries
•Continues to work in cold temperatures
•Maintenance pulse charging increases battery life and gives superb performance
•Short circuit, reverse polarity protection and spark protection
•Desulphation technology reverses effect of sulfation
•Charges deep-cycle, lead-acid, AGM and gel cell batteries from 1.2Ah to 120Ah
•Includes two different battery leads, one with clamps and one with eyelet terminals
•Can be connected for months at a time - ideal for seasonal vehicles
•Rain and splash-proof, can be used outdoors
•Charges even drained batteries
•Continues to work in cold temperatures
•Maintenance pulse charging increases battery life and gives superb performance
•Short circuit, reverse polarity protection and spark protection
•Desulphation technology reverses effect of sulfation
•Charges deep-cycle, lead-acid, AGM and gel cell batteries from 1.2Ah to 120Ah
•Includes two different battery leads, one with clamps and one with eyelet terminals