Do you guys think a 226/226 .609/.600 110lsa cam is too big for a Dd T/A??
12-09-2008, 03:35 PM
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Do you guys think a 226/226 .609/.600 110lsa cam is too big for a Dd T/A?? Like the title says, I have been looking into cams as I plan on camming this winter, and one cam caught my eye. Its a custom grind cam from Thunder Racing. The specs are in the title and here they are again: 226/226 .609/.600 110lsa. My Trans-Am is currently my DD, I have bought another beater for winter, but come spring chances are I will drive it everyday. My concern is if this cam may be too big for a DD car. I know everyone has their own preference for a "streetable" cam, but I just want a general idea of this cam, and if it is reasonable for a DD car. The other cam I had my eye on originally was a TR224, but now I think I want a little bigger then that. The rest of my mods are in my sig, the guy with this cam has the same mods as me, except for 4.10's and says its very streetable. I drive between 40-50 miles a day and don't want to kill my MPG too badly. Thanks for any and all help in advance!
12-09-2008, 03:46 PM
#2
Not too big at all IMO. The tr224 is going to be the most recommended cam on this site likely.
I'm running a 230/224 based on the tr230 which is a step up from the tr224. On the highway I can get as high as 25mpg in a car that weighs around 3500lbs with 295/50/r15 tires and 3.42 gears. That is with a mail order tune as well, and going WOT several times.
I'm running a 230/224 based on the tr230 which is a step up from the tr224. On the highway I can get as high as 25mpg in a car that weighs around 3500lbs with 295/50/r15 tires and 3.42 gears. That is with a mail order tune as well, and going WOT several times.
12-09-2008, 09:53 PM
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I think most people can agree that the tr224 is the most recommended cam for a DD. However, everyone has a different opinion what is considered DD. I think the cam you chose is fine for DD
12-09-2008, 09:56 PM
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i have a 225/225 cc in my formula now. the car is untuned and runs ok i havent driven it more than 20 miles but once tuned it will be perfect. I daily drove my 234/236 in my old SS and when it was tuned it ran like a champ and still got over 24mpg on the highway
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12-10-2008, 08:12 PM
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I called up Thunder Racing earlier today and discussed cam options. I think I settled on one: Thunder Racing 230/224 .575/.563 111 lsa. Anyone have any experience with this cam?
12-10-2008, 09:14 PM
#13
Notice everyone is talking about your durations, which are WELL within DD range, but no one mentioned your lift. If you have cold winters, you will want to keep it below .600. Otherwise, you jump in your car and take off when it's cold, you might fail a valve spring. That would be VERY bad.
The one guy who said he DD a high-lift cam talked about FLORIDA winters. Not sure how PA winters are, but they're certain to be much, much colder.
The one guy who said he DD a high-lift cam talked about FLORIDA winters. Not sure how PA winters are, but they're certain to be much, much colder.
12-10-2008, 09:21 PM
#14
A car with high durations and/or a lot of overlap will feel slugish/slow from stop light to stoplight (i.e., at low RPM), it will idle so rough it will sometimes die, it will buck and surge, etc. But, it's all in the tune and how the car is set up.
As a general rule, DD cams have 0 or less overlap, normally. The stock cams have, like, -16 overlap. I forget what the T-Rex cam has, for example, but it's a lot. You can search it.
A good cam is the 224/224 112 LSA. You can do the math with the formula in my sig.
As a general rule, DD cams have 0 or less overlap, normally. The stock cams have, like, -16 overlap. I forget what the T-Rex cam has, for example, but it's a lot. You can search it.
A good cam is the 224/224 112 LSA. You can do the math with the formula in my sig.
12-10-2008, 10:10 PM
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Notice everyone is talking about your durations, which are WELL within DD range, but no one mentioned your lift. If you have cold winters, you will want to keep it below .600. Otherwise, you jump in your car and take off when it's cold, you might fail a valve spring. That would be VERY bad.
The one guy who said he DD a high-lift cam talked about FLORIDA winters. Not sure how PA winters are, but they're certain to be much, much colder.
The one guy who said he DD a high-lift cam talked about FLORIDA winters. Not sure how PA winters are, but they're certain to be much, much colder.
Very good point. PA winters do get very cold, the car isn't driven much in winter, although some fall days and early spring days its still very sold out. The new cam im looking at is .575/.563, should be much better for PA weather, correct?
12-11-2008, 10:04 AM
#17
I have a custom 224 XE-R (.581 lift) 113 LSA in my T/A. The 224 duration cams are excellent daily driver cams. The car has served as a daily driver year round for two and half years the cam has 80,000 miles on it. As for mpg my car has 4.10 (also has a very old set of TEA 5.3 heads from back in the early days) and it gets 20.5 to 21.5 mpg in my normal driving. Car got 23.5 before in my normal driving. You might have at very worst a 3mpg loss...but I think it will less than that with the 224 cam maybe ~1 mpg. I think most of my mpg loss is due to the 4.10 gears.
BTW your car seems quite strong with 360rwhp as a bolt on car. I've seen a car with a 221/221 cam only make ~368rwhp.
If you let the car fully warm up before getting on it and the springs are set up correctly, and you do fresh springs every so often, I think you'll be ok with the ~.580ish lift cams.
The TR224 cam is a very good cam.
224 XE-R are great too...MTI called it a C2
228 XE-R if you want bigger I think TSP has one called 228R that's popular.
BTW your car seems quite strong with 360rwhp as a bolt on car. I've seen a car with a 221/221 cam only make ~368rwhp.
If you let the car fully warm up before getting on it and the springs are set up correctly, and you do fresh springs every so often, I think you'll be ok with the ~.580ish lift cams.
The TR224 cam is a very good cam.
224 XE-R are great too...MTI called it a C2
228 XE-R if you want bigger I think TSP has one called 228R that's popular.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 12-11-2008 at 10:11 AM.
12-11-2008, 10:47 AM
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It looks like you'll be using the stock heads, correct? I may be mistaken, but I think the TR230 (reverse split) works great on stock heads. The cams with no split (224/224 or 228/228) don't work out as good on stock heads. I could be wrong, but I think the reverse split is the way to go for you. Get springs good to .650 lift so you don't have to change them ever few thousand miles. Car should be very strong with that cam.
12-11-2008, 11:44 AM
#19
do a search and you will find a lot of people here who have used it with great success...for such a "small" cam there are people here making good numbers and a couple in the 11s with this cam and supporting mods
IIRC there is at least 1 person with 400rwhp on stock heads with an auto even
I know my car even with the stock stall (shitty) pulls well from any rpm, but really comes alive right around 2800-3000rpm and feels good up to my 6200 shifts, should be even better once i get a stall and ls6 intake
12-11-2008, 11:44 AM
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Yes the car is running stock heads. Thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it. I am getting new springs, I will be getting the cam package from Thunder Racing which include new springs and pushrods.
I agree that .575 is more on the mild side, but that cam was suggested to me and I have heard nothing but good about that cam.
I agree that .575 is more on the mild side, but that cam was suggested to me and I have heard nothing but good about that cam.