Thoughts on redlining a semi-warmed car?
02-04-2009, 11:58 PM
#42
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I beat mine like that bitch owes me money. That's not to say that as soon as I crank it I'm going to hit the rev limiter while reversing and roasting the tires as I pull out the driveway. There's a difference between use and abuse. I drive it like it should be driven, but not in an unnecessarily abusive manner.
. Also i agree
02-05-2009, 05:50 AM
#43
I built a mild 355 for my old 85 C10 a couple years ago. I cranked the motor up for the first time, adjusted the valves and set the timing by ear while letting it run for a few. Once I had it the way I wanted it I backed out the driveway and laid it to the floor roasting the tires off. I don't have a tach but I had the 4bll opened up wide open, perfect way to break in a motor. Since then I've been driving it daily to work and back, pulling a trailer, hauling ****, etc.. without one issue. Motors are tough, especially LS1's but I wouldn't go slamming the throttle on a cold motor because something could let go. I always let my SS warm up before I go beating on it, although once it's warmed up I drive it like I stole it. lol
02-06-2009, 12:41 PM
#49
Somebody please explain to me how a cold engine will bend PR's
The issue is that until your oil has reached the optimum 190*-210* range it does not have it's full lubricating properties. This means much greater engine wear especially on bearings.
Think about. When the oil is thick it doesn't flow as well so less effective lubrication. More oil pressure does not mean you are actually flowing more VOLUME but many people don't understand this. The higher PSI of cold oil is actually caused by more RESISTANCE to flow.
The oil doesn't heat up as fast as coolant either. I have witnessed this watching oil temp guages. It usually takes a few minuites after the coolant has actually reached operating temps for the oil temp to catch up.....
The issue is that until your oil has reached the optimum 190*-210* range it does not have it's full lubricating properties. This means much greater engine wear especially on bearings.
Think about. When the oil is thick it doesn't flow as well so less effective lubrication. More oil pressure does not mean you are actually flowing more VOLUME but many people don't understand this. The higher PSI of cold oil is actually caused by more RESISTANCE to flow.
The oil doesn't heat up as fast as coolant either. I have witnessed this watching oil temp guages. It usually takes a few minuites after the coolant has actually reached operating temps for the oil temp to catch up.....
02-06-2009, 02:43 PM
#50
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I beat mine like that bitch owes me money. That's not to say that as soon as I crank it I'm going to hit the rev limiter while reversing and roasting the tires as I pull out the driveway. There's a difference between use and abuse. I drive it like it should be driven, but not in an unnecessarily abusive manner.
02-06-2009, 04:21 PM
#51
I agree with all the warm up comments here...just like my bike, always let it warm up before I approach anything close to 15 000 rpms.
The one detail to highlight here is it was running for 3 - 5 minutes already. Depending on ambient temperature, that is quite a bit of time for the motor and oil to warm up. I doubt any damage was incurred at all.
In fact, SOMbitch states it properly in regards to oil pressure...and the spike in oil pressure that was seen probably did more damage to the oil pump itself (notoriously bad LS1 pumps) than a pushrod.
Most here like to drive our cars, myself included! The best way to keep it running strong is to look after it. Proper warm up times included in regular maintenance and good fluids.
The one detail to highlight here is it was running for 3 - 5 minutes already. Depending on ambient temperature, that is quite a bit of time for the motor and oil to warm up. I doubt any damage was incurred at all.
In fact, SOMbitch states it properly in regards to oil pressure...and the spike in oil pressure that was seen probably did more damage to the oil pump itself (notoriously bad LS1 pumps) than a pushrod.
Most here like to drive our cars, myself included! The best way to keep it running strong is to look after it. Proper warm up times included in regular maintenance and good fluids.
02-08-2009, 04:57 PM
#52
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One time i hadn't moved my SS in 2 days... then my girlfriend passed out at her work and i jumped in the car and had my foot to the floor the entire... at least 5 minutes to her work... like braking to a screeching halt at every red light... i hit 120+ like 5 times...... I normally baby it until its 160+ and the oil pressure drops to 45. Then i drive it normal... but i took the car to the strip yesterday and w/ a race weight of 3610 pounds and street tires i pulled a 13.41 at 105... in a 98 drop top... So im pretty sure you should wise up to the fact that your driving a GM product... and not a ford.
