Which Air Filter Is The Best?
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When I first got my car I did some flow / pressure
drop testing, Purolator was best by a hair; Fram
not much different. Both better than the OE filter.
Talking tiny fractions of "H2O here, meaning an
oily rag (even if better) is not -significantly- better.
The stock lid and stock MAF, those were a big deal.
The filter, not.
I'd rather spend another 4 bucks next year, than
50 bucks this year and take on the cleaning, oiling
and inevitable MAF fouling for something that does
the explicit job (filtering) less well.
But I like K&N Gold oil filters just fine. It's the hype
and consequences that are wrong, for the air filter.
drop testing, Purolator was best by a hair; Fram
not much different. Both better than the OE filter.
Talking tiny fractions of "H2O here, meaning an
oily rag (even if better) is not -significantly- better.
The stock lid and stock MAF, those were a big deal.
The filter, not.
I'd rather spend another 4 bucks next year, than
50 bucks this year and take on the cleaning, oiling
and inevitable MAF fouling for something that does
the explicit job (filtering) less well.
But I like K&N Gold oil filters just fine. It's the hype
and consequences that are wrong, for the air filter.
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I use fram paper. I would use any dry filter really. I had oil issues with the K&N, MAF and check engine code p1416 I believe it was. I use K&N in many differnt vehicles and still do, just not with my Camaro.
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Only oil the incoming side of the K&N and only do so until you have a thin red even coat on it. If you must, spray a very very light coat on the engine side and make SURE it's dry before reinstalling. I allow mine to dry for 3-5 hours and never have had a problem with MAF readings.
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Only oil the incoming side of the K&N and only do so until you have a thin red even coat on it. If you must, spray a very very light coat on the engine side and make SURE it's dry before reinstalling. I allow mine to dry for 3-5 hours and never have had a problem with MAF readings.
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the only problem with the paper filters is if your puttin out like over 400 hp to the wheels they can rip apart an get stuck in your MAF.Ive seen it happen at the track
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Only oil the incoming side of the K&N and only do so until you have a thin red even coat on it. If you must, spray a very very light coat on the engine side and make SURE it's dry before reinstalling. I allow mine to dry for 3-5 hours and never have had a problem with MAF readings.
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Purolator Air Filter. After seeing off-highway equipment mfgs void warranties if a K&N is installed, I will not use one on my engine. Probably not a big deal on-highway; but still...
If I'm concerned about a 0.01 increase in my track times I'll just remove the damn thing for the run. I'll take better filtering with the paper. And
at a paper filter coming apart at 400rwhp. That made my day.
If I'm concerned about a 0.01 increase in my track times I'll just remove the damn thing for the run. I'll take better filtering with the paper. And
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I use the MAC Racer's Choice Reusable Air filter, looks good, notice a little more oomph, that I got from WS6store.com.
I don't mind the cleaning, but I do mind the having to buy a paper filter time and time again.
I did the free ram air kit with my ac delco paper filter and within a couple weeks it was filthy.
Go with reusable.
I don't mind the cleaning, but I do mind the having to buy a paper filter time and time again.
I did the free ram air kit with my ac delco paper filter and within a couple weeks it was filthy.
Go with reusable.