What have you done that should've been done at the Factory?
#1
What have you done that should've been done at the Factory?
I was thinking about some of the upgrades I've done and curious about what others have done. So what have you fixed that should've been done from the factory.
Me:
- T-Tops! (Every 4th gen F-Body should've come with them)
- Upgraded the DRL Sockets due to weak factory wiring
- Upgraded Fog Light Sockets due to weak factory wiring
- Installed an On/Off switch for the automatic headlight sensor
- Re-wired the Passenger Door Window so it gets a full 12V direct from the battery, not through the Drivers Door Switch
- Whistler Headlights (just my opinion but all the Camaro's should have these)
I think that's it. Right now I'm working on a way to get a full 12V to the Drivers Side Window motor and still retain the Auto-Down feature.
(And in all wiring upgrades "I" = my friend who's and electrical genius) Thanx! Lol
Me:
- T-Tops! (Every 4th gen F-Body should've come with them)
- Upgraded the DRL Sockets due to weak factory wiring
- Upgraded Fog Light Sockets due to weak factory wiring
- Installed an On/Off switch for the automatic headlight sensor
- Re-wired the Passenger Door Window so it gets a full 12V direct from the battery, not through the Drivers Door Switch
- Whistler Headlights (just my opinion but all the Camaro's should have these)
I think that's it. Right now I'm working on a way to get a full 12V to the Drivers Side Window motor and still retain the Auto-Down feature.
(And in all wiring upgrades "I" = my friend who's and electrical genius) Thanx! Lol
#6
See, that's what I thought too. But after doing a bit of research I found that it's really not a 'bad' window motor. It's the fact that they're both underpowered and it kills them. The drivers side is only getting about 11V and the passenger side is only getting about 9V. Underpowering them that much is HORRIBLE for the motors, hence the early demise.
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#11
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#16
Rear End for sure. There are times I can't stand driving my car cause worrying about a crisp 1-2 shift blowing the crap out of my 10 bolt. I guess as long as I'm on street tires and don't have traction I'm safe.
I would have like to see a better stock exhaust system. Crushed Y-pipe and crap muffler don't help.
Don't even get me started on the cracking Trans Am door panels.
I would have like to see a better stock exhaust system. Crushed Y-pipe and crap muffler don't help.
Don't even get me started on the cracking Trans Am door panels.
#17
Ughhh my driver side door panel is cracked I'm not really worried about the 10-bolt with stock power and street tires, but if it did happen to go out, I'd be screwed.
The thing I would fix from the factory is a usable, functioning cupholder for M6 cars. The back ones are easy to reach, but too small and stuff falls out. The one in the passenger side door is too hard to reach while driving, and the center one is right where my arm goes when I shift.
The thing I would fix from the factory is a usable, functioning cupholder for M6 cars. The back ones are easy to reach, but too small and stuff falls out. The one in the passenger side door is too hard to reach while driving, and the center one is right where my arm goes when I shift.
#19
Ughhh my driver side door panel is cracked I'm not really worried about the 10-bolt with stock power and street tires, but if it did happen to go out, I'd be screwed.
The thing I would fix from the factory is a usable, functioning cupholder for M6 cars. The back ones are easy to reach, but too small and stuff falls out. The one in the passenger side door is too hard to reach while driving, and the center one is right where my arm goes when I shift.
The thing I would fix from the factory is a usable, functioning cupholder for M6 cars. The back ones are easy to reach, but too small and stuff falls out. The one in the passenger side door is too hard to reach while driving, and the center one is right where my arm goes when I shift.
i have no problem reaching the "hidden" cup holder on the passenger side though