Car hooks, then spins in 2nd? WTH
#21
#22
No you are wrong.... to an extent. yes "squating" is not the idea, but proper transfer of weight to the rear is the goal. Upon take off, your car transfers its weight to the rear, u cant argue that. after take off and under acceleration, the car then begins to "unload" the weight as the shocks rebound and redistribute the weight back forward. therefore less weight, and "load" on the back tires, causing the wheels to spin due to more hp and less load. Get some new tires and/or shocks. maybe look into your suspension setup..... something may not be set right (if you have any aftermarket susp).
#24
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I will disagree with a couple people in here and say even in an A4 car the 10 bolt is a crap shoot.... I put only about 20 passes on my car at 400+rwhp and the rear became noisy and the magnet was covered in fine metal dust at the last fluid change.
I am presently looking a used 10 bolt to hold me over until I get $$$ for a 12 bolt if any of you NC guys on here have a decent one......
I am presently looking a used 10 bolt to hold me over until I get $$$ for a 12 bolt if any of you NC guys on here have a decent one......
#25
im making around 335-340hp at the wheels and i have had my drag radials on my car for a few years and havent had a problem.
i seriously doubt you will break your rear with street tires.
i seriously doubt you will break your rear with street tires.
#26
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I will disagree with a couple people in here and say even in an A4 car the 10 bolt is a crap shoot.... I put only about 20 passes on my car at 400+rwhp and the rear became noisy and the magnet was covered in fine metal dust at the last fluid change.
I am presently looking a used 10 bolt to hold me over until I get $$$ for a 12 bolt if any of you NC guys on here have a decent one......
I am presently looking a used 10 bolt to hold me over until I get $$$ for a 12 bolt if any of you NC guys on here have a decent one......
#27
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Our old club project car was running 10.70s @130mph with H/C plus boost, a 3200 stall, ET Streets and the stock 10 bolt with 3.23s. We went through several transmissions and put two holes in the first engine block, but NEVER broke the 10 bolt after probably 100 passes. Car was returned to stock and driven with that same rear working just fine.
#28
TECH Fanatic
OP have you gotten any new parts yet? I'm really thinkin once you get some good tires and shocks its going to improve the way the car leaves the line.... a LOT..... Stock shocks lean a little more towards road racing than drag, making them horrible for any type of hard straight line acceleration.
#29
Our old club project car was running 10.70s @130mph with H/C plus boost, a 3200 stall, ET Streets and the stock 10 bolt with 3.23s. We went through several transmissions and put two holes in the first engine block, but NEVER broke the 10 bolt after probably 100 passes. Car was returned to stock and driven with that same rear working just fine.
#31
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Yeah I guess I am one of the unlucky ones. I was only cutting high 1.6x 60's deadhooking with NO wheelhop even though I am lowered on stock LCA's with no relocating..... I also bent so many wheel studs that I keep a few extra in the glovebox so I can make a quick change when swapping the MT/ET's off after a track day..... Weird huh..... And crummy 12.0 ET's tapping 112-113mph for the mods on the car.
My point it was just a pretty mild car to cause problems with so few passes....
My point it was just a pretty mild car to cause problems with so few passes....
#32
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in my opinion, a GM 10 bolt is just like anything else mass produced on an assembly line, there are monday and friday 10 bolts, and there are wedensday 10 bolts....
some people lucked out and got wedensday 10 bolts, others got friday 10 bolts when the workers didnt give a **** and wanted the beer at the bar.
some people lucked out and got wedensday 10 bolts, others got friday 10 bolts when the workers didnt give a **** and wanted the beer at the bar.
#33
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Full stock weight for an '02 WS6, other than the weight lost from a cat-less exhaust, smaller aftermarket torque converter, and Draglites. But then some weight was added for the Procharger kit.
That was the same 60 foots my '00 Trans Am was seeing with bolt-ons plus a 3500 stall, on BFG DRs. Never heard a peep from the rear.
I never had that problem either.
That was the same 60 foots my '00 Trans Am was seeing with bolt-ons plus a 3500 stall, on BFG DRs. Never heard a peep from the rear.
I never had that problem either.
#34
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What makes the 3.73's weaker? Is it because there are less teeth on the ring gear when you go with lower gears? I have the "thick" Motive 3.73 gear that replaced my 2.73 gear, but I had never heard that they were weaker before. I just hope my stuff all stays together when I go to the track with the stall I just added and ET Streets Radials.
#35
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What makes the 3.73's weaker? Is it because there are less teeth on the ring gear when you go with lower gears? I have the "thick" Motive 3.73 gear that replaced my 2.73 gear, but I had never heard that they were weaker before. I just hope my stuff all stays together when I go to the track with the stall I just added and ET Streets Radials.
And don't worry, even if you break your 10-bolt your car will still be one of my top favorites on this site. (and if I could, I'd buy you a 12-bolt in exchange for your paint color )
Last edited by RPM WS6; 04-28-2010 at 12:34 PM.
#36
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There are different schools of thought on this; some feel that less teeth = thicker, stronger teeth. Other's feel that more teeth = more contact area and more strength. I've read arguements on both sides from people that are much more knowledgable than myself about ring & pinions. My opinion comes from the fact that usually when I hear about an A4 guy breaking teeth off, he's got a 3.73 gear. Of course, some of that may be poor installs (poor as compared to factory) as well....or maybe it's the more aggressive launch than stock geared cars. For whatever reason though, seems like the stock gears don't sheer teeth as easily as the higher numeric ratios.
And don't worry, even if you break your 10-bolt your car will still be one of my top favorites on this site. (and if I could, I'd buy you a 12-bolt in exchange for your paint color )
And don't worry, even if you break your 10-bolt your car will still be one of my top favorites on this site. (and if I could, I'd buy you a 12-bolt in exchange for your paint color )
ill trade you my mystic teal car for your silver car!
#37
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#38
as stated above, weight transfers to rear which helps with traction on the launch. and since you hook on the launch, i would just suggest that you save the headache and just have the shift point for the 1-2 raised about 100-200 rpm.
before the stall, sticky tires and can't remember what else, i used to spin on the 1-2 shift after removing torque management and having tuned it a bit myself. mine went from a chirp to a uncomfortable spin like i'm guessing you're having. i played around with shift points a lot - going back and forth. i found raising the shift point just a hair let it hook pretty good into 2nd. you'll likely get a satisfying chirp, but nothing that you'd take your foot out of.
before the stall, sticky tires and can't remember what else, i used to spin on the 1-2 shift after removing torque management and having tuned it a bit myself. mine went from a chirp to a uncomfortable spin like i'm guessing you're having. i played around with shift points a lot - going back and forth. i found raising the shift point just a hair let it hook pretty good into 2nd. you'll likely get a satisfying chirp, but nothing that you'd take your foot out of.
#40
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My '02 has been hit also, twice in the same spot on the left rear corner. Both were very minor. The paint repair in that area isn't perfect though, so I would be OK with some comparable cosmetic flaws on any car that I'd be trading for. Or, if someone has a mint condition MTM or BGM car to trade then I'd be willing to throw some cash in as well.