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Car hooks, then spins in 2nd? WTH

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Old 04-26-2010, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
no, regardless of how big the stall is, your never going to shock the rear end as bad with an auto as you would a manual, unless you have a trans brake. the stall still slips and its not all at once.
ok cool thanks
Old 04-26-2010, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by YURVIEW
No you are wrong.... to an extent. yes "squating" is not the idea, but proper transfer of weight to the rear is the goal. Upon take off, your car transfers its weight to the rear, u cant argue that. after take off and under acceleration, the car then begins to "unload" the weight as the shocks rebound and redistribute the weight back forward. therefore less weight, and "load" on the back tires, causing the wheels to spin due to more hp and less load. Get some new tires and/or shocks. maybe look into your suspension setup..... something may not be set right (if you have any aftermarket susp).
I understand what your saying, but you should get your weight transfer by the front end rising, not the rear squating. There is going to be some squat, unless you have over 100% anti-squat in the suspension.
Old 04-26-2010, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 99345hp
I understand what your saying, but you should get your weight transfer by the front end rising, not the rear squating. There is going to be some squat, unless you have over 100% anti-squat in the suspension.
exactly. when the rearend squats, the axle itself is being shoved up in the car, taking away traction. thats why drag racers use a 90/10 shock in the front to lift the front end up and set it down easily.
Old 04-27-2010, 10:05 AM
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I will disagree with a couple people in here and say even in an A4 car the 10 bolt is a crap shoot.... I put only about 20 passes on my car at 400+rwhp and the rear became noisy and the magnet was covered in fine metal dust at the last fluid change.

I am presently looking a used 10 bolt to hold me over until I get $$$ for a 12 bolt if any of you NC guys on here have a decent one......
Old 04-27-2010, 10:30 AM
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im making around 335-340hp at the wheels and i have had my drag radials on my car for a few years and havent had a problem.
i seriously doubt you will break your rear with street tires.
Old 04-27-2010, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SOMbitch
I will disagree with a couple people in here and say even in an A4 car the 10 bolt is a crap shoot.... I put only about 20 passes on my car at 400+rwhp and the rear became noisy and the magnet was covered in fine metal dust at the last fluid change.

I am presently looking a used 10 bolt to hold me over until I get $$$ for a 12 bolt if any of you NC guys on here have a decent one......
the point was at the bolt on level hes not gonna have to worry about it on good tires. i dont think i have heard of anyone popping one under a bolton a car on DR's. when you go past that it def is all about luck some people it lasts forever and others like you 20 passes and done...who knows why. that buddy i mentioned is running 10.8 on the bottle on the 10 bolt and its been 2 years i think?
Old 04-27-2010, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jrob56
that buddy i mentioned is running 10.8 on the bottle on the 10 bolt and its been 2 years i think?


Our old club project car was running 10.70s @130mph with H/C plus boost, a 3200 stall, ET Streets and the stock 10 bolt with 3.23s. We went through several transmissions and put two holes in the first engine block, but NEVER broke the 10 bolt after probably 100 passes. Car was returned to stock and driven with that same rear working just fine.
Old 04-27-2010, 08:39 PM
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OP have you gotten any new parts yet? I'm really thinkin once you get some good tires and shocks its going to improve the way the car leaves the line.... a LOT..... Stock shocks lean a little more towards road racing than drag, making them horrible for any type of hard straight line acceleration.
Old 04-27-2010, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6


Our old club project car was running 10.70s @130mph with H/C plus boost, a 3200 stall, ET Streets and the stock 10 bolt with 3.23s. We went through several transmissions and put two holes in the first engine block, but NEVER broke the 10 bolt after probably 100 passes. Car was returned to stock and driven with that same rear working just fine.
How much did the car weigh in "strip mode"?
Old 04-27-2010, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1gt2nv
Really? All I ever hear is how weak the 10 bolt is. I'm not making alot of power, so maybe the rear will hold. Guess there's only one way to find out!! lol
Guy I know runs low 10's on a stock 10 bolt in a 95 TA with a lot of nitrous.
Old 04-27-2010, 11:08 PM
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Yeah I guess I am one of the unlucky ones. I was only cutting high 1.6x 60's deadhooking with NO wheelhop even though I am lowered on stock LCA's with no relocating..... I also bent so many wheel studs that I keep a few extra in the glovebox so I can make a quick change when swapping the MT/ET's off after a track day..... Weird huh..... And crummy 12.0 ET's tapping 112-113mph for the mods on the car.

My point it was just a pretty mild car to cause problems with so few passes....
Old 04-27-2010, 11:09 PM
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in my opinion, a GM 10 bolt is just like anything else mass produced on an assembly line, there are monday and friday 10 bolts, and there are wedensday 10 bolts....

some people lucked out and got wedensday 10 bolts, others got friday 10 bolts when the workers didnt give a **** and wanted the beer at the bar.
Old 04-28-2010, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan Stewart
How much did the car weigh in "strip mode"?
Full stock weight for an '02 WS6, other than the weight lost from a cat-less exhaust, smaller aftermarket torque converter, and Draglites. But then some weight was added for the Procharger kit.

Originally Posted by SOMbitch
I was only cutting high 1.6x 60's deadhooking with NO wheelhop
That was the same 60 foots my '00 Trans Am was seeing with bolt-ons plus a 3500 stall, on BFG DRs. Never heard a peep from the rear.


Originally Posted by SOMbitch
I also bent so many wheel studs...
I never had that problem either.
Old 04-28-2010, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Oh, I did just notice that you have 3.73s, these are weaker than the 2.73 or 3.23 gears so it might not last quite as long as the guys with stock rears *and* stock gears. But still, I would definitely not consider a better rear as a "must have" at your power level.
What makes the 3.73's weaker? Is it because there are less teeth on the ring gear when you go with lower gears? I have the "thick" Motive 3.73 gear that replaced my 2.73 gear, but I had never heard that they were weaker before. I just hope my stuff all stays together when I go to the track with the stall I just added and ET Streets Radials.
Old 04-28-2010, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by green28
What makes the 3.73's weaker? Is it because there are less teeth on the ring gear when you go with lower gears? I have the "thick" Motive 3.73 gear that replaced my 2.73 gear, but I had never heard that they were weaker before. I just hope my stuff all stays together when I go to the track with the stall I just added and ET Streets Radials.
There are different schools of thought on this; some feel that less teeth = thicker, stronger teeth. Other's feel that more teeth = more contact area and more strength. I've read arguements on both sides from people that are much more knowledgable than myself about ring & pinions. My opinion comes from the fact that usually when I hear about an A4 guy breaking teeth off, he's got a 3.73 gear. Of course, some of that may be poor installs (poor as compared to factory) as well....or maybe it's the more aggressive launch than stock geared cars. For whatever reason though, seems like the stock gears don't sheer teeth as easily as the higher numeric ratios.

And don't worry, even if you break your 10-bolt your car will still be one of my top favorites on this site. (and if I could, I'd buy you a 12-bolt in exchange for your paint color )

Last edited by RPM WS6; 04-28-2010 at 12:34 PM.
Old 04-28-2010, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
There are different schools of thought on this; some feel that less teeth = thicker, stronger teeth. Other's feel that more teeth = more contact area and more strength. I've read arguements on both sides from people that are much more knowledgable than myself about ring & pinions. My opinion comes from the fact that usually when I hear about an A4 guy breaking teeth off, he's got a 3.73 gear. Of course, some of that may be poor installs (poor as compared to factory) as well....or maybe it's the more aggressive launch than stock geared cars. For whatever reason though, seems like the stock gears don't sheer teeth as easily as the higher numeric ratios.

And don't worry, even if you break your 10-bolt your car will still be one of my top favorites on this site. (and if I could, I'd buy you a 12-bolt in exchange for your paint color )
i was taught in school that more teeth on the ring gear spreads the load out more.

ill trade you my mystic teal car for your silver car!
Old 04-28-2010, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
ill trade you my mystic teal car for your silver car!
I'd like to keep my silver '98, BUT.....

I'd be very interested in trading my pewter '02 for a same-condition mystic teal or BGM car.
Old 04-28-2010, 12:41 PM
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as stated above, weight transfers to rear which helps with traction on the launch. and since you hook on the launch, i would just suggest that you save the headache and just have the shift point for the 1-2 raised about 100-200 rpm.

before the stall, sticky tires and can't remember what else, i used to spin on the 1-2 shift after removing torque management and having tuned it a bit myself. mine went from a chirp to a uncomfortable spin like i'm guessing you're having. i played around with shift points a lot - going back and forth. i found raising the shift point just a hair let it hook pretty good into 2nd. you'll likely get a satisfying chirp, but nothing that you'd take your foot out of.
Old 04-28-2010, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
I'd like to keep my silver '98, BUT.....

I'd be very interested in trading my pewter '02 for a same-condition mystic teal or BGM car.
if mine were in the same condition, i would trade you (if yours was an M6 ofcourse, damn A4's) lol. mines been wrecked you may have seen my post a few years back and fixed. right now im building a 370 for it.
Old 04-28-2010, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
if mine were in the same condition, i would trade you (if yours was an M6 ofcourse, damn A4's) lol. mines been wrecked you may have seen my post a few years back and fixed. right now im building a 370 for it.
Ah yes, good point on trans types. My trade offer is only extended to people with A4 cars. No M6s are welcome in my garage.

My '02 has been hit also, twice in the same spot on the left rear corner. Both were very minor. The paint repair in that area isn't perfect though, so I would be OK with some comparable cosmetic flaws on any car that I'd be trading for. Or, if someone has a mint condition MTM or BGM car to trade then I'd be willing to throw some cash in as well.



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