1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

If I go wot off the line, my car hooks then spins when it hits 2nd. Why would the car do this? I have a a4 with junk tires. Could there be something wrong? It feels like my turbo gp did. The turbo would spool then tire spin. But I don't have a turbo....yet!

dhowdy

iTrader: (2)

My car does the same thing sort of, but it's because I generally ease into the throttle through first to be easier on the parts and then when it shifts to 2nd it will chirp for just a second (ASR still on).

FiredUpZ28

your shocks are compressing for the initial hit and then rebounding back up unloading the rear end. Get some good drag shocks that allow for rebound control. (Koni D/A)

99345hp

If this were true then he would be losing traction when leaving the line with the rearend compressing. The rearend squating actually unloads the tires.

YURVIEW

iTrader: (127)

No you are wrong.... to an extent. yes "squating" is not the idea, but proper transfer of weight to the rear is the goal. Upon take off, your car transfers its weight to the rear, u cant argue that. after take off and under acceleration, the car then begins to "unload" the weight as the shocks rebound and redistribute the weight back forward. therefore less weight, and "load" on the back tires, causing the wheels to spin due to more hp and less load. Get some new tires and/or shocks. maybe look into your suspension setup..... something may not be set right (if you have any aftermarket susp).

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

It's all stock suspension yet. 53,000 on the car. I know I need to upgrade the suspension. This winter I will!

YURVIEW

iTrader: (127)

then definetly look into some drag shocks, lca, phb, and torque arm.

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

That's the plan!! This winter I should have time/money for it.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Forget all this talk about suspension work for better traction. It's all a waste if you don't take care of THIS problem first:

Get some new/good tires before anything else.

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

That will be next after I get a 12 bolt. My 10 bolt would kill itself with good tires. lol

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Not really with an A4, you'd be surprised what we can get away with.

jrob56

iTrader: (39)

disagree its all luck i have the same mods minus gears and beat my car all the time with 125k miles. its got Toyo DR's on it now and has had DR's on it before. stock rear is still just fine and i dont plan to stop modding, stall will be coming this summer if i get the car payed off...

buddys h/c stalled car is still on the 10 bolt and is spraying the car on a good tire, youd be surprised what it will take behind an a4.

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

Really? All I ever hear is how weak the 10 bolt is. I'm not making alot of power, so maybe the rear will hold. Guess there's only one way to find out!! lol

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Don't get me wrong, 10-bolts are a POS rear end, but A4's generally tend to last longer since we aren't shocking the rear end with big clutch-dumps.

therobman

iTrader: (39)

my 10 bolts holding up knock on wood with 415rwhp with an m6 dead hooking 1st and not even a cherp in 2nd with nitto 555r's your rear will be fine u have an a4

StuntmanMike

iTrader: (2)

I had a traction problem when I was running all seasons, I couldn't hook off the line, and I oculdn't leave at anything other than idle. This is with A4/2.73's too.

I just got a set of Nitto 555's (NOT the DR's) on mine, and holy crap do those things hook! Not only could I leave the line off idle, I could also foot brake it to 1500, and barely get a chirp.

I LOVED these tires at the track, I felt like I was running DR's. And this was at street pressure with no burnout!

Tires will help alot, and don't believe everything you read, the ten bolt isn't a grenade waiting to go off, at least not behind an A4 with moderate hp levels.

Bizzles

iTrader: (3)

110k miles. my 10-bolt is still going strong, stock suspension, no wheel spin w/ bfg DRs. Mods in sig.

2000***camaro***ss

iTrader: (3)

sorry to ,but is adding a mild size stall to an A4 as bad for the rear end as dumping the clutch in an M6?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

No. There isn't much that's harder on the rear than a clutch dump (assuming the clutch holds), other than massive wheel hop.

These guys are right, you can do A LOT to the 10-bolt in an A4 car. I would not even consider something better for an auto car unless you go with a huge engine or big power adder. Chances are, wheel hop will kill the rear in your A4 car LONG before too much power will. If you notice this problem, then you really need to start looking at suspension work right away regardless of your tire situation.

Oh, I did just notice that you have 3.73s, these are weaker than the 2.73 or 3.23 gears so it might not last quite as long as the guys with stock rears *and* stock gears. But still, I would definitely not consider a better rear as a "must have" at your power level.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

no, regardless of how big the stall is, your never going to shock the rear end as bad with an auto as you would a manual, unless you have a trans brake. the stall still slips and its not all at once.