jsmith564

exactly what I did...

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

Anyone tried Founders? They have stupidly good prices. I'm looking to possibly order the sub-frame connectors, strut tower brace, panhard bar, and LCAs from if I don't find a used set of headers/ory to spend my money on soon.

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

The best are the ones that are installed correctly. I had to grind the welds off mine, the t-tops were letting water in after the original install.

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

x2. Surprised theirs haven't been brought up more.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I disagree.

The SLP bolt-ins also attach to both the front and rear subframe (in addition to the center brace and rear control arm connection points - technically 4 points of connection), thus making them true "sub-frame connectors". They can be welded as well as bolted for ultimate strength.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

I have SLP and they are welded in. They were the first mod I did on the car. Now the car has over 250,000 miles on it. No leaks or squeeks after all these years and miles. Its a dailey driver with heads/cam and all the bolts ons. Makes 452/418 at the wheels and has been driven hard on numerous occasions. I dont know how SLP makes them now days but back 12 years ago when I got these the only difference between the weld ins and the bolt ons was that one came with bolts, washers, and nuts and the other didn't.

JUSTINSWS6

I have umi 3 point bolt in no complaints

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

I would do MWC weld in.

JUSTINSWS6

I've welded in some for a guy, fit fine

inssanity21

iTrader: (16)

At first i bolted mine in, was alot stiffer and i loved the difference. i then got paranoid and decided to weld them in. after it felt like i put on another set of sub frame connectors. made it much stiffer. the only down fall to doing it is now there are a ton more squeaks and rattles. every imperfection in the road feels much worse than it is. but it took away all my thoughts about the car "twisting"

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO 2 point weld in, no ground clearance loss or any clearance issues, and welding it in gives it a lot larger attachment area.

SuperStock99

iTrader: (1)

I've had my UMI 2pt weld in's on for about 2 years now and no complaints so far. Chassis felt much more planted and they definitely cut down on the moans and groans that a 10+ year old car will make.

sawblade99Z

iTrader: (1)

I have Founders weld-in 2 pt sfc and also their stb. The sfc took care of most of my rattles and squeaks. It only makes the occasional groan in really cold temperatures now. I've never had any major water leaks. Maybe one or two drops, but hardly enough to notice. Pretty sure that was taken care of with the sfc install too. Car feels significantly more solid and doesn't slide around from a ~30 mph roll anymore. Well worth the money IMO. My car is simply my DD though, not a track car. I mainly bought them to eliminate the noises and prevent leaks, which they did. Hope that helps.

slow ride 02

Where do I find these MWC's you speak of?

94LT1TA6spd

Planning on buying some in the next few weeks. Hard to look past the prices, and when you see all the possitive people speak about them, its hard to voluntarily pay more.

PhoneniX

I called up UMI when i was looking for the right fit. he said
-chromoly is a waste of cash if its a weekend warrior only do that for full drag car
-2pt vs 3 pt is only BARELY noticeable on a road coarse, for drags they are equal (think abt it a 2pt connects the subframes which therefor box the ends -giving about the same side to side strength)
-weld in is no maintance, quieter and generally whats the chances that you will take off the sfc when u sell the car ? parting them out is a null point
-tubular v boxed boxed are heavier and unless thicker guage like is available a =thickness tubular will be stronger
-black v red is personal i went black figuring scratches will be easier to respray paint

I went 2pt tubular J&M weld in. they were just 100$ and the best deal with high quality ends.

bonus tip the sfc extend the jacking point area so a jack and stand can fit easier

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Bolt-in should be no maintenance as well, if you bolt them in properly. Shocks, control arms, even wheels are all bolted on and should not come loose/nor need periodic re-torquing. SFCs should be no different, although the bolt/washer kits that come with most of them won't allow sufficent amounts of torque. This is something that can be corrected though. Stack washers in a reverse pyramid shape and you'll be able to torque the bolts down extremely tight. I did this 8+ years ago, and they have never come loose.

I've also had weld-in SFCs before on another F-body, I found them to be no better or worse (in terms of before and after performance) than properly installed bolt-on ones. In theory, the best bond would come from bolting AND welding, since this allows a compression bond (bolts) and a perimeter bond (welds).

REDL1NE

iTrader: (5)

I need to do this soon. Good info guys. Subscribed.

deez01ls1

iTrader: (2)

I installed my 2pt UMI sfc and the car and im very impressed....it made the car so much quieter. Mine are bolt in and i think im going to get them welded too

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

If you get a chance could you post a picture of the "reverse pyramid" is the largest diameter washer next to the head of the bolt, or the SFC? Also I'm assuming this is with the bar nut that comes with the SFC's.
I just bought a pair of used SLP 3pt bolt in's but they didn't come with any hardware, and I don't want to pay $60+shipping for SLP's hardware kit if it isn't necessary. I am going to call UMI and see if their "bolt pattern" is the same, but if you have any other suggestions that would be great!