LeanPocket

iTrader: (6)

hey UnleashedBeast
I'm considering moving up to Amsoil, what makes that your top tier oil ? if u don't mind me asking

I've heard good testimonials, but i hear alot of bogus talk too, I would like to put it to rest :/

strokerblackhawk

iTrader: (4)

there was no problem with the oil filter, i was told that the oil was being burned through the rings, i assure you i didn't double gasket it there was no oil leaking from anywhere that was the first thing we started looking for the underside of the car was clean as a whistle so i know it wasn't leaking out.

uuummm i believe it was max atf with synchromax or synchromesh, **** i cant remember exactly what it said thanks for steering me in the right direction im fixin to start using only ams oil ive heard way to much ggod stuff about it not to use it!!!!

zrsnopro97

iTrader: (1)

I didnt mean to come off as an idiot about the oil change light comment, just got a little confused. The light is not triggered by mileage, but by Engine revolutions and operating temperature. Some newer cars actually monitor the oil itself to trigger the light and I think I got them confused. I've owned my car for the last 20,000 miles and the only time the light came on was with the royal purple so I guess I jumped to conclusions without thinking it out. Oh and I change my oil every 3k-4k miles regardless of the light.

That being said, there is a lot of good info in this thread... Learn something new every day

BoricuaHec01

lmao.

UnleashedBeast

iTrader: (2)

It's possible due to a lighter lubricant at 100*C specification. The LS1 prefers lubricants that are closer to a 40 grade oil, than the lighter 30 grades that are common. German Castrol was a heavy 30 grade when it was green, and I believe it's still a mid 30 grade now that it's gold. When I choose a 10W-30 lubricant for a LS1, I always check the cSt @ 100*C to make sure it's at least 10.8-11.0 or greater. Heavier lubricants quiet valve train.

Thanks for being a good sport about it. We are all here to learn something, and I like to help educate others about engine lubricants. No harm no foul.

The company doesn't cut corners in the formulation of their top tier true synthetic line. You get the best possible, no compromise.

Use this in your transmission, and never look back. It will shift like butter.

Amsoil Synthetic ATF - only 33.55 a gallon at dealer cost

and never pay retail for Amsoil. Get it at dealer cost and become a preferred customer.

Preferred Customer

You don't like the sound of the LS1 sewing machine? Neither did I. =)

GC 0W-30 "green" also made my valve train very quiet in my 99 LS1. I was saddened when they reformulated to "gold". =(

Chaotic Deconstruct

It is not a hydrocracked group III. Mobil 1 is a hydrocracked oil, and I hope your not even comparing that to GC. It is a true synthetic(IV) and will not shear like a group III oil. Detergent oils all have coloring formulations that make them distinct from one another, so if color is to be the deciding factor we are all in trouble. German Castrol has been tested over and over again in both green and gold and it still produces the same numbers now as it did back then. Bob the Oil Guy is a great site but if the speculation about GC becoming a group III has started over there then it has lost my recognition as a knowlegable site.

UnleashedBeast

iTrader: (2)

That's why I said "rumored", not conclusive. I believe the TBN and viscosity were both decreased under the new formulation, not that it was a big difference. Do you have a recent UOA on it, would love to see one.

No comparison, Mobil 1 is junk compared to what it was 10+ years ago. I would take GC as a first choice every time.

Do you have a MSDS that shows it to be a group IV? I've yet to find one.

Chaotic Deconstruct

[QUOTE=UnleashedBeast;14875324]That's why I said "rumored", not conclusive. I believe the TBN and viscosity were both decreased under the new formulation, not that it was a big difference. Do you have a recent UOA on it, would love to see one.

http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/...20Analysis.htm

This is a UOA that shows what the results between the two oils in question where in a 99 Corvette. Take them with a grain of salt because this is an Amsoil site that is posting the results of this test. The lowest TBN I have seen out of my GC was 4.9 at 8,500 miles, but this test yields a lower result. Is there bias by Amsoil, possibly, but the results could be entirely factual. One will never know.

The presence of molybdenum is higher with Amsoil by a very minute amount, but the Magnesium count is through the roof compared to the Calcium based formula of GC. Magnesium is a stronger base metal detergent than Calcium, which results in a higher TBN for Amsoil than any other UOA I have looked at for a Calcium based oil. But there is a downside to this high TBN as Magnesium is known to cause upper cylinder wear and has the ability to gel where as Calcium based formulations do not.

Again, I am not saying one is better than the other, but GC is cheaper (especially if you have to have Amsoil shipped to you) and will bring you results similar to Amsoil for less money. I have never seen an MSDS for German Castrol, but I have never really looked that hard either so they may be available. As for GC being a Group III oil, well I hope it doesn't turn out that way for Amsoil's sake because the GC easily compares to Amsoil in terms of quality and that wouldn't look very good on have a Group III neck and neck with a Group IV.

UnleashedBeast

iTrader: (2)

Chaotic,

You do realize that the test was performed from March 2005 till October 2005. There were testing the original "green" formulation that was known to be group IV. I agree that it should perform as well. That was also Amsoil's old 0W-30 formulation (series 2000). It's been reformulated twice since then.

My question is about the new "gold" formulation, and it's performance. Thanks for the link, it's a good keeper for me.

The numbers are legit, as the links under the testing results contain the actual UOAs from Blackstone.

Chaotic Deconstruct

If I am able to locate one of my own I will will scan a copy and post it up. As for changing their formula one can only "guess" because we don't even know what the first "green" formula consisted of. Like I said earlier this is not a debate as to which one is best, but that each works in their own way and somehow produce a nearly identical level of performance when factored out. Hopefully I can find some of my old UOA I have laying around to better bring this to light.

BODUKE

I just paid $9.99 for a quart yesterday 5w30.

BODUKE

I have been using amsoil since 2004 and it has been good. Kinda pricey, but oil is the lifeline of an engine.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I ran RP once in mine. Went to change it at 3k and it still felt good. But never used it again.

The seocnd link posted was pretty eye opening. But I always ran Castrol Syntech when I first bought my car, but switched to M1 after a couple years. (bought in 03) Been running M1 since then. The BITOG postings about the M1 filteration and oil life was enough to open my eyes when I switched to M1.

94Z28-MSTGKLR

iTrader: (20)

I use RP in my engine, transmission, and rear end. I don't have any complaints but after reading this I feel paranoid and like I should change it out..... I always thought RP was good. What about mobile 1's ATF and rear end oil? Any good?

wav3form

iTrader: (1)

I use Castrol Euro 0w40 and I haven't had any usage problems like I did with the Mobil 1. I'll probably stick with the Castrol from now on.