79TAKid

iTrader: (1)

I have a stock 32,000 miles 2001 Black NHRA Formula, I also posted down a little bit in this Forum about stock Formula exhaust VS. stock 2001 WS6 exhaust.

So what have you guys found that gives great results?

Bought the car on a Saturday morning and took it to the track completely stock, results were (and had a laptop plugged in). 13.68@102mph 2.10/60ft.
I was hoping for a 13.30 - 13.40 as we have owned several of the LS1 F-bodys. Laptop says car was super lean or running out of fuel above 4500 rpms and was running 225 degrees.

Sunday morning took some extra parts in the garage. Added a Yank SS3600 convertor, an SLP lid, had to buy a 160 thermostat, added a WS6 catback (has a smaller muffler & larger tailpipes), a larger SLP Y-pipe, and 255/50/16 DR's. Friend did a Tune and showed same fuel results, so did not add any timing above 4500 rpms. Results were 12.88@105mph 1.80/60ft and running about 177 degrees. Only had a day to get this done because I was racing at Indy in the division finals. No time to look at fuel problem yet, but that still was a gain of 3/10th's in the 60ft and 8/10's overall.

After my trip: It was decided that there was not enough fuel volume and properly dropped out the tank to install a new one. Installed a new "High Flow" pump from Ebay (equal to the 255 Walbro). The car sat alot from original owner and found that the fuel pump wiring harness was destroyed by a mouse at one time, so got a new harness too. Got the car ReTuned and will have track results in 4 days, but seat of the pants has power above 4500 - 6000 rpms now. Hoping for a minimum of a 12.68 which is a full 1 second gain.

What other Bolt-ons can I do? as money allows I will work on suspension and LCA's and stuff. The break for my Sportsman class is 12.00 flat, not wanting to go much faster than that at this time, also want to keep the car very streetable, got 27.2 driving 300 miles to Indy.

I do not want to do headers right now, I like the car quiet. I do have a new set of nicely ported 241's with excellent flow numbers and a low mileage take out 2004 ZO6 cam (550 lift). Don't think I'll have time to get them on before track closes here in St.Louis.

Thinking about an Underdrive pulley and maybe at the most change the 3.23's for a set of 3.42's cause 3.73's don't hold up to stalls and convertors very long, too small of teeth.


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6SSPEED

I wouldn't do a gear change since it's already 3:23. The mpg is a nice thing. Bang for the buck I would do free mods, p/p the throttle body, and a good tune then start playing with suspension. Judging by what you have done with your blue formula, you know what works and what don't.

As far as the pulley goes, They won't show much on the dyno but they do help at the track.

TX_Z28

I have had good luck with suspension upgrades and some good tires. More power isn't any good if you can't get it to the ground.

Tampa Tuning

iTrader: (2)

Best bang for the buck is a tune, then id say gears
Www.TampaTuning.com

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

Put a fresh fuel filter on the car too....

sokr915

iTrader: (3)

Since you just bought it, I would do a complete tune up before doing anything else. plug/wires/fuel filter/air filter/oil change.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

This.

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

i still say get LTs. my car isnt loud and i have LTs with gutted cats. im still running my OE SLP DD and its not obnoxious.

79TAKid

iTrader: (1)

10-03-2012 updated times with me in the car VS my much lighter son

Times with me in the car

Bone stock : 13.78@102mph 2.10/60ft
Bolt ons : __ 12.98@104mph 1.80/60ft
Fuel pump : _12.62@107mph 1.77/60ft ___ 8.05@86mph 1/8th

Bolts ons = SLP AirLid, SLP Y-pipe, Yank SS3600, WS6 catback,
160 thermostat, Drag Radials and FAP Tuning (stock pump was weak)

.33 better in the 60/ft, and 1.16 seconds overall in the 1/4 and 5 mph

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

Sub frame connectors for sure, and a SSRA/Chris 1313 bottom breathing cold air intake has been proven to shave some time in the quarter

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

This^^^


But other than that,

Headers and UDP's are good bolt-ons in my opinion, and an exhaust will give you more sound too.

On my car, relocated LCA's and subframe connectors were worth alot in my book. The car felt so much better, especially when stepping into the gas at low speeds, and both of those are relatively cheap inexpensive mods.

Gears will transform the way the car feels and will make the car feel alot faster. It's up to you weather you want to invest money in the 10-bolt, but 3.73's are the "go-to" gear for automatic guys.

Element

iTrader: (5)

Long tube headers. You can do every other mod out there for the LS1, but if you're blocking breathing out, gains aren't going to be great. And having LTs doesn't mean your car is going to be loud, either - that's all in the exhaust setup.

Suspension will help, too. Rear lower control arms and relocation brackets would be the best place to start, and they're not too expensive, either.

FiredUpZ28

Shocks help a lot if you have stock DeCarbons on it still. Thats more maintenance then a bolt on - but it'll help control the rear tires much better than stock ones. Personally I wouldnt spend the money on headers until was tryin to push more power but I know thats not the norm around here

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

The competition engineering rear shocks are less than a 100 bucks and people have ran those low into the 9's maybe even fast using them.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

LCA Relo's
Adjustable LCA's
Adjustable PHB
2 PT Weld In SFC's

If you shop around, the above parts can be had brand new for around $600.

TyCZ28

Longtubes like the BBK's are nice and easy to install... everyone liked the sound of mine and it wasnt that loud at all



now my new car is a whole different story.. Pacesetter 1 7/8 longtubes, ORY, and a stainless bullet muffler turned down.. it sounds NASTY hahaha

RacingTiger03

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to have to agree with someone above, replacing the DeCarbon's was by far the best mod/maintenance item I've done.. next to that Headers/Lid/Chrs1313 Ram air really woke her up (granted I already had a tune and True duals before). I now only want a cam for the thumpidy thump, plenty fast enough for a DD now

79TAKid

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE ON MY BOLT ONS:

1 month ago stock 13.68@102mph 2.10/60ft

All the upgrades are listed below, did things mostly one at a time

Last week was a 12.62@108mph and 1.77/60ft

Changed to a stock LS6 cam and cleaned up the factory heads.

New times = 12.15@112mph and 1.760/60ft.

Total list of bolt ons so far:

Yank SS3600 convertor, SLP Y-pipe, SLP AirLid, stock WS6 catback, 160 thermo, M/T drag radials, LS6 cam, 241 heads ported, TR55 plugs and computer tune.

Full weight car, factory intake and exhaust manifolds, factory catback, real cats, all factory suspension, 3.23 gears.......12.15@112mph 1.760/60ft.

Next week or two: gut the cats, purchased a real Firehawk hood for Cold RamAir. Might try to come up with an UnderDrive pulley.

Looking for 11.99 or faster one time for winter bragging numbers. The Sportsman ET class is a 12.00 cut-off I race in.

Still open to suggestions - thanks

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TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Very nice man! Everything is adding up about perfect for the mods done and the mph/time you are picking up. Personally I find more people picking up mph from a CAI from under the car like a FTRA or SSRA vs. a hood. I don't see why you couldn't squeak out a 11.99 with an UD pulley, CAI, and some good air. You must be running in a darn good DA too.

79TAKid

iTrader: (1)

The DA a few days earlier was -800 but I couldn't make that day, I'm sure it was in the negative again, I'll try to find out.

I'm sure there are advantages to the different CAI systems, but I already own the hood and love the way they look. Just curious, has anyone ever used a hood and an under bumper system in conjunction or does that create a negative effect?

Trying to come up with a UD pulley but totally on a budget with just buying the car 4 weeks ago and all the other mods.

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