joshj930

I have a 99 ls1 t/a with a full exhaust long tubes off road y pipe and slp 1 cat back with and ls6 intake and free mods done to the car. If I get it dyno tuned will it really do anything?

oldmano2z

yes it will the stock tune on our cars is for emissions tune will really help since you have headers and cold air probably pull you another 10 -15hp with tune. I just guessing BUT make sure you find a good .reputable tuner.

joshj930

Yea that's what I thought was just double checking. Yea I have a good shop near me that is real good

RedDeadG8

iTrader: (3)

it's probably running rich right now. get a tune and you should be around 330-340rwhp

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

i wish somebody would post a complete tune checklist and also add recommended choices. i first went with a mail order tune and was disappointed. i did request a street friendly tune which ended up leaving some power on the table. later i had a pro re-tune it and picked up 13 rwhp going from 13.8:1 A/F ratio down to 13:1. he also adjusted it throughout the entire range which he said i was missing alot of low / mid range power. what i missed was adjusting my auto trans shift settings (i forget what thats called) & adjusting my fans for the 160 therm i added (still runs 190/200). oh well live & learn. cheers

joshj930

I was just gonna say how are the mail in order tunes from frost any good cause it's cheaper to do that I don't know if it's really worth saving the money or not cAuse I want the car to run good

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

im not trying to say a mail order tune is terrible, just find a checklist & go through everything. raise rev limiter? delete 162 fuel shut off? egr? etc lots of small choices. ps i believe a tune while the car is on the dyno is more likely to be accurate.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

With what you have, a mail order from frost will be fine. I got a mail order from him after I did longtubes/ory, converter, and a few other things and its ran fine.

flattusmaximus78

iTrader: (1)

Most tuners have you fill out a paper with your mods so they can turn off what is not needed and make proper adjustments. What did you wan't changed, tq management?

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

not torque mgmt, it was like shift tables having to do with dead spots. example i have 2:73's and at 50 mph when i kick down almost nothing happens (no downshift into power range). i couldnt find the thread under auto trans but some other posters mentioned it. im hoping when i install my new 3k stall my deadspot goes away.

98CayenneT/A

Bone stock with 2.73s I ran 13.88, Lt headers, ory and a good street tune I ran 13.42. added drag radials and ran 13.22. Deleting torque management is a must, not bad for exhaust, tires and tune

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

sorry to disagree, yes deleting torque mgmt will gain a tenth however you can eventually burn out the bans in your auto trans. per mag article super chevy ls1 dos & donts.(may 2004). i asked my tuner about that and he tweeks the sensitivity however wont delete it. cheers.

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

the only checklist i've seen is from SLP 2003 catalog. recal speedometer, remove speed limiter, remove torque reduction, increase shift firmness, raise shift points, adjust cooling fans, deactivate EGR, deactivate air pump, install SLP custom spark advance???, tune fuel mapping, correct for non stock fuel injectors. please post a more complete checklist. thx

oldmano2z

I'm thinking the baseline starting point on fuel injected engines is a 14.7 to 1 on the air fuel ratio.look in the fuel injection section on here . these guys on here and the vendors know more about this stuff than I do. i'll bet I read and read on this site a solid 6 months before I attempted anything. that's just me. found my vendors here and knowledge here . I also bought a helms manual for my car also big help . I hope our 4th gens never go out of style,but keep evolving after all 4th gens are what started this whole fuel injection thing besides the ls vette and back then a lot of us couldn't afford a new 5th gen corvette. sorry off point I'd like to see a check list also ... the oldman...

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

14.7 stoich is for cruise not w.o.t. and if you have e10 its actually closer to 14.1 stoich .

at wot normally aspirated your looking more in the 12.5 to 13.0 range , forced induction 11.5-11.9 or so

as for 4th gens starting the whole "efi thing" domestic efi performance I would point more to the 3rd gen tpi cars , buick t-type & Grand Nationals , 5.0 EFI mustangs & Capri fox bodies any of those could be modded to run pretty darn well using factory computer/fueling/ignition systems especially the intercooled SFI v6 buicks...

as for a tune on an intake/exhaust car start with making sure a wideband will be used once fueling is dialed ( ve & maf tuning) in then timing can usually be optimized/increased , shift points can be bumped up , shift times can be shortened , shift pressures bumped up, enable downshifts to happen at higher speed/rpm thresholds ( hey 273 guy with the dead spot this means you lol) , and some or all torque management removed depending if you want to be a big boy or play it safe lol - the more mods your car has the more likely removing all torque management will cause an issue unless of course your mods included upgraded transmission hard parts.

Those ^ would be the basic things to make gains on any car including stock.

Then theres a lot of little details that really come down to how strict your local emmisions laws are , your own conscience regarding disabling of emmisions devices such as egr & catalytic convertors and personal preferences like removing/increasing top speed limiters, adjusting fan turn on & off temps , fans staying on for a while after shutting car off ( nice at track) , characterizing for aftermarket injectors,etc...

As far as dyno vs. street/track tuning a dyno is a great tool to get fueling dialed in and find any hidden power through fueling & timing , street and track is where the car will get used and you cant expect the best of dyno operators to nail things like shift mph/rpm commands on a dyno -gotta take it from the lab to the real world for that allthough most experienced operators that have time in on setups similar to yours should be able to get you in the ballpark

oldmano2z

thanks murphinator, for the knowledge and input the op I'm sure is happy with the knowledge gained from your info. I spaced on the 3rd gens, turbo buicks,etc. I had taken a hiatis in the 80's to early 90's. trying to catch up. heck I'm just now learning to text... the oldman......

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

glad your back , I also took a performance hiatus from mid 90's to mid 2000's when I bought a supercharged 3800 buick regal gs as a daily/commuter car then did bolt ons and picked up some tuning skills on 3800sc/4t65e (gs,gtp,ssei,etc...) still have some of those cars around but getting more into the f bodies now

z28SSilvest

My car when it had the LS1 in it put down 325 with Longtubes, SLP induction, cat delete, ory, and borla catback then 358hp/372tq after the dyno tune. Go for it.

oldmano2z

murphinator, Lots of miles on those cars and they look fantastic! I'm getting ready to break 100k on mine. I've changed a lot of stuff so I documented the date and mileage on my upgrades. Upper and lower ball joint and 'a' arm bushings are the only thing that have miles on them. Along with wiring and interior.