I think iv'e settled on putting a LS3 into my WS6, need some swap help
#1
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I think iv'e settled on putting a LS3 into my WS6, need some swap help
So I have been toying around for ages about what to do with my 00 WS6. More power is a MUST!! lol..
here is where I am at. Originally I was going to do h/c/i but after some thinking, all that on a 15yo engine with 100+ miles on a stock bottom end, I think I'm just going to do an LS3 swap. I found this engine for sale from a reputable builder. Its an LS3 with the following specs..
BOTTOM END:
NEW LS3 BLOCK
FORGED FLAT TOP PISTONS 10.7:1
FORGED PRO SERIES SCAT 4340 CONNECTING RODS
PLASMA MOLY FILE FIT RINGS
58X GM CRANKSHAFT
ROTATING ASSEMBLY HAS BEEN BALANCED
TRICK FLOW HYD ROLLER CAM 238 242 DUR AT 50 .595 LIFT 112 LS
GM HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP
CLOYES BILLET ROLLER TIMING CHAIN
LS7 HP GM LIFTERS
TIMING COVER AND REAR ENGINE COVER
LS3 OIL PAN AND PICKUP
TOP END:
LS3 HEADS WITH 2.16 AND 1.60 STAINLESS STEEL SEVERE DUTY VALVES
3 ANGLE VALVE JOB
TRICK FLOW SPRINGS TO MATCH CAMSHAFT
TRICK FLOW CHROMOLY PUSHRODS
GM MLS HEAD GASKETS
ARP HEAD BOLTS
GM ROCKER ARMS
LS3 INTAKE
LS3 FUEL INJECTORS AND FUEL RAIL
GM VALVE COVERS
With all that, how do I drop it in the bird? I'm fine to pull any and all parts off the LS1 I need to. Everything I have read says its relatively easy. I know I need the reluctor wheel adapter and some wiring harness extensions. here are the questions I have.
1. Oil pan. I've read both that you do/do not need to reuse the LS1 oil pan. I plan on getting an upgraded k-member if that makes a difference, but what pan can/should I use
2. ECU/wiring harness. The engine doesn't come with any electronics. Can I use my standard harness and computer, or will that not work, and if not, what should I use
3. TB. I have a 90mm cable TB from an old project that I plan to put on the front of the stock LS3 intake. Is that possible and even if it fits, can i program the ECU to run with cable vs wire?
4. coils. Ive read that I can reuse my LS1 coils. Just want to verify that here, and with the LS3 fule rail and LS3 injectors, everything else should be ok?
5. SMOG. Anyone have an idea if this thing will pass CA smog??
I haven't done an engine swap before but I'm trying to do all the research I can before just diving into this. Ive read a few articles and get a few different answers. My main concern is the computer and wiring issues...
here is where I am at. Originally I was going to do h/c/i but after some thinking, all that on a 15yo engine with 100+ miles on a stock bottom end, I think I'm just going to do an LS3 swap. I found this engine for sale from a reputable builder. Its an LS3 with the following specs..
BOTTOM END:
NEW LS3 BLOCK
FORGED FLAT TOP PISTONS 10.7:1
FORGED PRO SERIES SCAT 4340 CONNECTING RODS
PLASMA MOLY FILE FIT RINGS
58X GM CRANKSHAFT
ROTATING ASSEMBLY HAS BEEN BALANCED
TRICK FLOW HYD ROLLER CAM 238 242 DUR AT 50 .595 LIFT 112 LS
GM HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP
CLOYES BILLET ROLLER TIMING CHAIN
LS7 HP GM LIFTERS
TIMING COVER AND REAR ENGINE COVER
LS3 OIL PAN AND PICKUP
TOP END:
LS3 HEADS WITH 2.16 AND 1.60 STAINLESS STEEL SEVERE DUTY VALVES
3 ANGLE VALVE JOB
TRICK FLOW SPRINGS TO MATCH CAMSHAFT
TRICK FLOW CHROMOLY PUSHRODS
GM MLS HEAD GASKETS
ARP HEAD BOLTS
GM ROCKER ARMS
LS3 INTAKE
LS3 FUEL INJECTORS AND FUEL RAIL
GM VALVE COVERS
With all that, how do I drop it in the bird? I'm fine to pull any and all parts off the LS1 I need to. Everything I have read says its relatively easy. I know I need the reluctor wheel adapter and some wiring harness extensions. here are the questions I have.
1. Oil pan. I've read both that you do/do not need to reuse the LS1 oil pan. I plan on getting an upgraded k-member if that makes a difference, but what pan can/should I use
2. ECU/wiring harness. The engine doesn't come with any electronics. Can I use my standard harness and computer, or will that not work, and if not, what should I use
3. TB. I have a 90mm cable TB from an old project that I plan to put on the front of the stock LS3 intake. Is that possible and even if it fits, can i program the ECU to run with cable vs wire?
4. coils. Ive read that I can reuse my LS1 coils. Just want to verify that here, and with the LS3 fule rail and LS3 injectors, everything else should be ok?
5. SMOG. Anyone have an idea if this thing will pass CA smog??
I haven't done an engine swap before but I'm trying to do all the research I can before just diving into this. Ive read a few articles and get a few different answers. My main concern is the computer and wiring issues...
#3
Staging Lane
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i'm hoping/wondering if i use my stock ECU and just tune it, hommie at the 76 hopefully won't notice or care its a swap.. ECU you should still read 00WS6 right?? kinda like if I just bored and stroked it?
#4
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I think you can use the LPE box to convert the 58x signal to 24x. The newer PCMs can read both but the older ones only have the coding for 24x since 58x didn't exist at the point in time. AFAIK that is. It would be a lot easier if the LS3 is being built to just use a 24x set-up.
#5
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There are conversion kits out there for the 58 to 24 setup. I'll see if I can get the motor set up just to make things easier. I guess my biggest question is still if my stock ECU/PCM will work with new motor. Unlike many other swaps I dont have a donor car, just a built engine w/o harnesses etc..
#7
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The 58x conversion kits is for converting your existing harness to reach the front of the timing cover and down to the updated CPS CKP sensors. Which you would need if your shortblock is going to come with all the covers and things like that set up for 58x.
However, if you're just going to transplant your accessories off your old motor on this new short block then you are still facing the problem of running a 58x reluctor wheel in a motor set up for that funky 24x signal.
Who are you purchasing the short-block from? Choosing the reluctor should not be a big issue whatsoever. Since the LS3 is a later Gen 3 motor you may be forced to purchased one of those conversion kits and run it as a 58x set-up. It is really not a big deal, you just have to get a couple new parts and SDparts has a nice kit.
I would call one of the sponsors on this site and talk to them about it, I'm just not to sure about weather the updated blocks can be ran with the old CPK CPS sensors.
However, if you're just going to transplant your accessories off your old motor on this new short block then you are still facing the problem of running a 58x reluctor wheel in a motor set up for that funky 24x signal.
Who are you purchasing the short-block from? Choosing the reluctor should not be a big issue whatsoever. Since the LS3 is a later Gen 3 motor you may be forced to purchased one of those conversion kits and run it as a 58x set-up. It is really not a big deal, you just have to get a couple new parts and SDparts has a nice kit.
I would call one of the sponsors on this site and talk to them about it, I'm just not to sure about weather the updated blocks can be ran with the old CPK CPS sensors.
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#8
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Unless your willing to move I think I'd look into a smog legal Procharger kit, Between the smog ****'s and the 58x to 24x conversion it all sounds like a big headache. But that's just my opinion, I'm sure people have gotten worst things past the smog police but it all sounds like a expensive risk to take if you get caught.
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#12
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Its a stock 3.622 crank
so to make this puppy smog legal, i'm going to use my stock PCM and have to figure out a way to add egr to an LS3. any ideas on where/how to add this to the intake?
I'm not opposed to removing the egr for DD, but when its hooked up to a smog machine, it has to have egr.
second, it looks like this cam is way to big. I guess i need to be around the 225/229 range to pass, or so i've read. Any idea how much power that would rob from the original set up and if a cam of that size will pass??
so to make this puppy smog legal, i'm going to use my stock PCM and have to figure out a way to add egr to an LS3. any ideas on where/how to add this to the intake?
I'm not opposed to removing the egr for DD, but when its hooked up to a smog machine, it has to have egr.
second, it looks like this cam is way to big. I guess i need to be around the 225/229 range to pass, or so i've read. Any idea how much power that would rob from the original set up and if a cam of that size will pass??