How to: Winter Storage in Minnesota!
07-28-2014, 03:18 PM
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How to: Winter Storage in Minnesota! Hi all,
I know this seems pretty far away, but if you live in Minnesota you are probably already thinking of it.. dare I say it: The Winter! Yes..snow, ice, freezing temperatures and not being able to drive your nice little sports car - AT ALL (for about 6 months).
Questions:
1. Tips on storing my 2002 Camaro z28 in an outdoor garage with no heat?
2. Should I run the car periodically to keep the fluid flowing?
4. Any product to use when storing it during the winter in freezing cold temperatures?
3. The temperature outside/in the garage can literally drop down to -20 to -30 degrees farenheit - If the car had condensation from running it periodically, would it freeze and cause problems?
4. Any misc information, tips, or comments about what YOU guys do when storing your car for a VERY long, cold winter?
Thanks!!!
I know this seems pretty far away, but if you live in Minnesota you are probably already thinking of it.. dare I say it: The Winter! Yes..snow, ice, freezing temperatures and not being able to drive your nice little sports car - AT ALL (for about 6 months).
Questions:
1. Tips on storing my 2002 Camaro z28 in an outdoor garage with no heat?
2. Should I run the car periodically to keep the fluid flowing?
4. Any product to use when storing it during the winter in freezing cold temperatures?
3. The temperature outside/in the garage can literally drop down to -20 to -30 degrees farenheit - If the car had condensation from running it periodically, would it freeze and cause problems?
4. Any misc information, tips, or comments about what YOU guys do when storing your car for a VERY long, cold winter?
Thanks!!!
07-28-2014, 04:10 PM
#2
TECH Enthusiast
There are some "storage" and "winter storage" threads here you can search through that will provide plenty of information. Ensure your antifreeze is strong and can handle the -30 F or -40 F. Better safe than sorry. My garage is unheated but doesn't fall under 20-25 deg except on rare occurrences since it's attached to the house on one side. I've seen radiators pop around here at only -10F.
Worst thing you can do is just start the car and not allow the fluids to warm up. If you do run the engine you have to get the fluids hot to burn off the condensation and combustion acids during the cold startup. So unless you have at least one day every month or two where the car can get out and run on snow, salt, and and sand-free roads you're out of luck. The one winter where I couldn't get my GTX out at least once every month I ran the engine with the garage door half way down and the exhaust sticking out. Everything was else was sealed off (I didn't want to drill cutouts in the doors). I covered most of the radiator initially and ran the engine temp up to 210 deg for about 30 minutes by idling it from 1000-2000 rpm. The garage got up to over 70 deg ambient so I ran the AC system as well to put more heat load on the engine. The AC was blowing 39 deg when I tested it that time. In 10 years of ownership I only had to do that twice for my "fun" car. That engine did tend to run quite hot, especially in the summer. Only run your engine if you can get it HOT. Otherwise, probably best to just let it sit for winter. Charge the battery every few days to a week, or put it on float charge....or disconnect it and bring it inside. Run up the air pressure in the tires as they'll probably drop 10-15 lbs or more over the winter. Run your gas tank down low just before storage and fill it all the way with fresh gas while adding some Staybil or other similar preservative. If you run the car at all in the winter top it off each time. Keep the mice out of the car with a repellant and by plugging easy entrance ways (exhaust pipes, etc.). Though if I was a MN mouse, I'd be heading for your house, not an unheated and isolated garage.
Personally, I try to run the car at least once a month (2-6 weeks) which is feasible in Connecticut winters. With those kinds of Minnesota temps I'd probably want to ensure I had a 0w-30 synthetic oil in the car if I was going to start it....it will turnover a lot easier. Move the car a bit so flat spots on the tires don't form. I know a lot of guys up north store their cars all winter and don't touch them. I believe you should try your best to circulate those fluids at least every 6-8 weeks (at least once or twice in mid-winter)....ideally by getting the car on the road for a 10-15 mile trip. My guess is that Minnesota winters may never have a 1-2 week spread where the roads clear up a couple times each winter. I'm glad I'm only in Connecticut. I don't use any special additives though I do an oil change in November to ensure the oil is fresh for the winter extremes. That's somewhat dependent on what oil you use and how many miles you logged from April-November. Having an oil sump heater that can bring the temp up to 100-150 is a big help though it's still not hot enough to burn off combustion by-products. If I had an expensive big dollar motor I'd probably work up some type of oil pump system that can circulate the oil w/o starting the car. Don't really see that needed for our every day LS-1's. I've also used a space heater in the garage on the days I wanted to start my GTX at placed it under the engine/near the oil sump.
One advantage to the ultra cold MN weather as that for the most part it's too cold to support a strong rusting reaction. I seem to recall that the temperature range where rust formation is maximized is from 30-40 deg F. Warmer or colder and the rate of metal oxidation slows down (assuming no catalyst like salt is added).
Worst thing you can do is just start the car and not allow the fluids to warm up. If you do run the engine you have to get the fluids hot to burn off the condensation and combustion acids during the cold startup. So unless you have at least one day every month or two where the car can get out and run on snow, salt, and and sand-free roads you're out of luck. The one winter where I couldn't get my GTX out at least once every month I ran the engine with the garage door half way down and the exhaust sticking out. Everything was else was sealed off (I didn't want to drill cutouts in the doors). I covered most of the radiator initially and ran the engine temp up to 210 deg for about 30 minutes by idling it from 1000-2000 rpm. The garage got up to over 70 deg ambient so I ran the AC system as well to put more heat load on the engine. The AC was blowing 39 deg when I tested it that time. In 10 years of ownership I only had to do that twice for my "fun" car. That engine did tend to run quite hot, especially in the summer. Only run your engine if you can get it HOT. Otherwise, probably best to just let it sit for winter. Charge the battery every few days to a week, or put it on float charge....or disconnect it and bring it inside. Run up the air pressure in the tires as they'll probably drop 10-15 lbs or more over the winter. Run your gas tank down low just before storage and fill it all the way with fresh gas while adding some Staybil or other similar preservative. If you run the car at all in the winter top it off each time. Keep the mice out of the car with a repellant and by plugging easy entrance ways (exhaust pipes, etc.). Though if I was a MN mouse, I'd be heading for your house, not an unheated and isolated garage.
Personally, I try to run the car at least once a month (2-6 weeks) which is feasible in Connecticut winters. With those kinds of Minnesota temps I'd probably want to ensure I had a 0w-30 synthetic oil in the car if I was going to start it....it will turnover a lot easier. Move the car a bit so flat spots on the tires don't form. I know a lot of guys up north store their cars all winter and don't touch them. I believe you should try your best to circulate those fluids at least every 6-8 weeks (at least once or twice in mid-winter)....ideally by getting the car on the road for a 10-15 mile trip. My guess is that Minnesota winters may never have a 1-2 week spread where the roads clear up a couple times each winter. I'm glad I'm only in Connecticut. I don't use any special additives though I do an oil change in November to ensure the oil is fresh for the winter extremes. That's somewhat dependent on what oil you use and how many miles you logged from April-November. Having an oil sump heater that can bring the temp up to 100-150 is a big help though it's still not hot enough to burn off combustion by-products. If I had an expensive big dollar motor I'd probably work up some type of oil pump system that can circulate the oil w/o starting the car. Don't really see that needed for our every day LS-1's. I've also used a space heater in the garage on the days I wanted to start my GTX at placed it under the engine/near the oil sump.
One advantage to the ultra cold MN weather as that for the most part it's too cold to support a strong rusting reaction. I seem to recall that the temperature range where rust formation is maximized is from 30-40 deg F. Warmer or colder and the rate of metal oxidation slows down (assuming no catalyst like salt is added).
Last edited by Firebrian; 07-28-2014 at 04:52 PM.
07-28-2014, 04:19 PM
#3
Is there electricity in the garage? A small space heater even just to keep stuff above 0 degrees would be nice.
Otherwise, most fluids are alright for the winter. I usually throw seafoam in the gas tank, do a start-up about once a week and let the engine idle up to operating temp, and maybe put a battery tender on.
Others may suggest putting the car on jackstands with the suspension loaded or on spare wheels to avoid flat spots in the tires.
Otherwise, most fluids are alright for the winter. I usually throw seafoam in the gas tank, do a start-up about once a week and let the engine idle up to operating temp, and maybe put a battery tender on.
Others may suggest putting the car on jackstands with the suspension loaded or on spare wheels to avoid flat spots in the tires.
07-28-2014, 05:12 PM
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There are some "storage" and "winter storage" threads here you can search through that will provide plenty of information. Ensure your antifreeze is strong and can handle the -30 F or -40 F. Better safe than sorry. My garage is unheated but doesn't fall under 20-25 deg except on rare occurrences since it's attached to the house on one side. I've seen radiators pop around here at only -10F.
Worst thing you can do is just start the car and not allow the fluids to warm up. If you do run the engine you have to get the fluids hot to burn off the condensation and combustion acids during the cold startup. So unless you have at least one day every month or two where the car can get out and run on snow, salt, and and sand-free roads you're out of luck. The one winter where I couldn't get my GTX out at least once every month I ran the engine with the garage door half way down and the exhaust sticking out. Everything was else was sealed off (I didn't want to drill cutouts in the doors). I covered most of the radiator initially and ran the engine temp up to 210 deg for about 30 minutes by idling it from 1000-2000 rpm. The garage got up to over 70 deg ambient so I ran the AC system as well to put more heat load on the engine. The AC was blowing 39 deg when I tested it that time. In 10 years of ownership I only had to do that twice for my "fun" car. That engine did tend to run quite hot, especially in the summer. Only run your engine if you can get it HOT. Otherwise, probably best to just let it sit for winter. Charge the battery every few days to a week, or put it on float charge....or disconnect it and bring it inside. Run up the air pressure in the tires as they'll probably drop 10-15 lbs or more over the winter. Run your gas tank down low just before storage and fill it all the way with fresh gas while adding some Staybil or other similar preservative. If you run the car at all in the winter top it off each time. Keep the mice out of the car with a repellant and by plugging easy entrance ways (exhaust pipes, etc.). Though if I was a MN mouse, I'd be heading for your house, not an unheated and isolated garage.
Personally, I try to run the car at least once a month (2-6 weeks) which is feasible in Connecticut winters. With those kinds of Minnesota temps I'd probably want to ensure I had a 0w-30 synthetic oil in the car if I was going to start it....it will turnover a lot easier. Move the car a bit so flat spots on the tires don't form. I know a lot of guys up north store their cars all winter and don't touch them. I believe you should try your best to circulate those fluids at least every 6-8 weeks (at least once or twice in mid-winter)....ideally by getting the car on the road for a 10-15 mile trip. My guess is that Minnesota winters may never have a 1-2 week spread where the roads clear up a couple times each winter. I'm glad I'm only in Connecticut. I don't use any special additives though I do an oil change in November to ensure the oil is fresh for the winter extremes. That's somewhat dependent on what oil you use and how many miles you logged from April-November. Having an oil sump heater that can bring the temp up to 100-150 is a big help though it's still not hot enough to burn off combustion by-products. If I had an expensive big dollar motor I'd probably work up some type of oil pump system that can circulate the oil w/o starting the car. Don't really see that needed for our every day LS-1's. I've also used a space heater in the garage on the days I wanted to start my GTX at placed it under the engine/near the oil sump.
One advantage to the ultra cold MN weather as that for the most part it's too cold to support a strong rusting reaction. I seem to recall that the temperature range where rust formation is maximized is from 30-40 deg F. Warmer or colder and the rate of metal oxidation slows down (assuming no catalyst like salt is added).
Worst thing you can do is just start the car and not allow the fluids to warm up. If you do run the engine you have to get the fluids hot to burn off the condensation and combustion acids during the cold startup. So unless you have at least one day every month or two where the car can get out and run on snow, salt, and and sand-free roads you're out of luck. The one winter where I couldn't get my GTX out at least once every month I ran the engine with the garage door half way down and the exhaust sticking out. Everything was else was sealed off (I didn't want to drill cutouts in the doors). I covered most of the radiator initially and ran the engine temp up to 210 deg for about 30 minutes by idling it from 1000-2000 rpm. The garage got up to over 70 deg ambient so I ran the AC system as well to put more heat load on the engine. The AC was blowing 39 deg when I tested it that time. In 10 years of ownership I only had to do that twice for my "fun" car. That engine did tend to run quite hot, especially in the summer. Only run your engine if you can get it HOT. Otherwise, probably best to just let it sit for winter. Charge the battery every few days to a week, or put it on float charge....or disconnect it and bring it inside. Run up the air pressure in the tires as they'll probably drop 10-15 lbs or more over the winter. Run your gas tank down low just before storage and fill it all the way with fresh gas while adding some Staybil or other similar preservative. If you run the car at all in the winter top it off each time. Keep the mice out of the car with a repellant and by plugging easy entrance ways (exhaust pipes, etc.). Though if I was a MN mouse, I'd be heading for your house, not an unheated and isolated garage.
Personally, I try to run the car at least once a month (2-6 weeks) which is feasible in Connecticut winters. With those kinds of Minnesota temps I'd probably want to ensure I had a 0w-30 synthetic oil in the car if I was going to start it....it will turnover a lot easier. Move the car a bit so flat spots on the tires don't form. I know a lot of guys up north store their cars all winter and don't touch them. I believe you should try your best to circulate those fluids at least every 6-8 weeks (at least once or twice in mid-winter)....ideally by getting the car on the road for a 10-15 mile trip. My guess is that Minnesota winters may never have a 1-2 week spread where the roads clear up a couple times each winter. I'm glad I'm only in Connecticut. I don't use any special additives though I do an oil change in November to ensure the oil is fresh for the winter extremes. That's somewhat dependent on what oil you use and how many miles you logged from April-November. Having an oil sump heater that can bring the temp up to 100-150 is a big help though it's still not hot enough to burn off combustion by-products. If I had an expensive big dollar motor I'd probably work up some type of oil pump system that can circulate the oil w/o starting the car. Don't really see that needed for our every day LS-1's. I've also used a space heater in the garage on the days I wanted to start my GTX at placed it under the engine/near the oil sump.
One advantage to the ultra cold MN weather as that for the most part it's too cold to support a strong rusting reaction. I seem to recall that the temperature range where rust formation is maximized is from 30-40 deg F. Warmer or colder and the rate of metal oxidation slows down (assuming no catalyst like salt is added).
It's funny you mention that rust's optimal temperature is 30-40 and colder temps don't allow it to oxidate. MN is known for rusting cars worse than anywhere for the amount of salt that is on the road during the winter, so I guess cold weather doesn't rust your car as much, but it brings ice, which brings salt, which brings rust, which really is one thing I hate about MN, because you have to have two cars if one is a sports car with RWD.
07-28-2014, 05:37 PM
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Is there electricity in the garage? A small space heater even just to keep stuff above 0 degrees would be nice.
Otherwise, most fluids are alright for the winter. I usually throw seafoam in the gas tank, do a start-up about once a week and let the engine idle up to operating temp, and maybe put a battery tender on.
Others may suggest putting the car on jackstands with the suspension loaded or on spare wheels to avoid flat spots in the tires.
Otherwise, most fluids are alright for the winter. I usually throw seafoam in the gas tank, do a start-up about once a week and let the engine idle up to operating temp, and maybe put a battery tender on.
Others may suggest putting the car on jackstands with the suspension loaded or on spare wheels to avoid flat spots in the tires.
Seafoam is a suggestions I hear a lot of people say to do in the winter when the car is sitting. Can anyone elaborate on that or whether or not that should for sure be done?
07-28-2014, 05:44 PM
#6
TECH Junkie
If you like your car do not take it for a spin during a Minnesota winter. The amount of salt used here is massive. I just park it, run some fuel stabilizer in it, disconnect the battery and let it be for 6 months
07-28-2014, 07:33 PM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
I'm close enough to the shore that even in winter we get enough rain storms to wash the salt off the roads a few times each month. I don't know if I could last 6 months w/o driving the car.
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07-28-2014, 09:04 PM
#8
Kansas is a far cry from Minnesota, but I try to start my cars and drive them once a week, though sometimes it's been over a month until all the snow and salt are gone. I know you're supposed to get the engine HOT to burn off all the condensation, acids, etc. and I don't always succeed. But a car is more than an engine, and seals need to be lubricated, fluids need to flow, gaskets need to warmed and tightened up.
So I get my cars up to operating temp regularly, although I don't always hold them there for as long as would be optimal.
So I get my cars up to operating temp regularly, although I don't always hold them there for as long as would be optimal.
07-28-2014, 10:58 PM
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Definitely too early to think about winter. Nothing could be further from my mind at this point. However, here is my general format for Chicago winter storage, which isn't too far off from MN winters (spent a great deal of time between 0 to -16°F this last winter):
- No need to start the car regularly just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter. Mine will often go for 6 months without being started or driven; and I've found that many of the common rumors associated with this practice are just that....rumors. My daily driven '02 Camaro developed leaks and seeps that the '98 never has even though the '98 is older and sits for half the year without being run. Mileage/usage caused more issues with my '02 than sitting ever did with my '98.
- You could do a full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 4-6 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
- Full tank of gas plus Stabil. Keeping the tank full helps to block out moisture as there is less air trapped in the tank.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car, especially if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so). However, if you have the car on competition level tires, such soft compounds might be subject to more significant flat-spotting even over short term winter storage.
- Dust proof car cover (this step is obviously just a matter of preference, it won't hurt anything to leave it uncovered).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~16 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Only thing I would add for someone in a super cold cold region without a climate/semi-climate controlled garage would be to make sure your anti-freeze is up to the task of your winter temps. If you plan to see temps of -30°F then you're right on the border of where 50/50 coolant/water ratios would be at risk of freezing. Might want to go with a 60/40 or 70/30 ratio in that case.
- No need to start the car regularly just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter. Mine will often go for 6 months without being started or driven; and I've found that many of the common rumors associated with this practice are just that....rumors. My daily driven '02 Camaro developed leaks and seeps that the '98 never has even though the '98 is older and sits for half the year without being run. Mileage/usage caused more issues with my '02 than sitting ever did with my '98.
- You could do a full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 4-6 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
- Full tank of gas plus Stabil. Keeping the tank full helps to block out moisture as there is less air trapped in the tank.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car, especially if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so). However, if you have the car on competition level tires, such soft compounds might be subject to more significant flat-spotting even over short term winter storage.
- Dust proof car cover (this step is obviously just a matter of preference, it won't hurt anything to leave it uncovered).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~16 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Only thing I would add for someone in a super cold cold region without a climate/semi-climate controlled garage would be to make sure your anti-freeze is up to the task of your winter temps. If you plan to see temps of -30°F then you're right on the border of where 50/50 coolant/water ratios would be at risk of freezing. Might want to go with a 60/40 or 70/30 ratio in that case.
07-29-2014, 12:02 AM
#10
Definitely too early to think about winter. Nothing could be further from my mind at this point. However, here is my general format for Chicago winter storage, which isn't too far off from MN winters (spent a great deal of time between 0 to -16°F this last winter):
- No need to start the car regularly just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter. Mine will often go for 6 months without being started or driven; and I've found that many of the common rumors associated with this practice are just that....rumors. My daily driven '02 Camaro developed leaks and seeps that the '98 never has even though the '98 is older and sits for half the year without being run. Mileage/usage caused more issues with my '02 than sitting ever did with my '98.
- You could do a full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 4-6 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
- Full tank of gas plus Stabil. Keeping the tank full helps to block out moisture as there is less air trapped in the tank.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car, especially if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so). However, if you have the car on competition level tires, such soft compounds might be subject to more significant flat-spotting even over short term winter storage.
- Dust proof car cover (this step is obviously just a matter of preference, it won't hurt anything to leave it uncovered).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~16 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Only thing I would add for someone in a super cold cold region without a climate/semi-climate controlled garage would be to make sure your anti-freeze is up to the task of your winter temps. If you plan to see temps of -30°F then you're right on the border of where 50/50 coolant/water ratios would be at risk of freezing. Might want to go with a 60/40 or 70/30 ratio in that case.
- No need to start the car regularly just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter. Mine will often go for 6 months without being started or driven; and I've found that many of the common rumors associated with this practice are just that....rumors. My daily driven '02 Camaro developed leaks and seeps that the '98 never has even though the '98 is older and sits for half the year without being run. Mileage/usage caused more issues with my '02 than sitting ever did with my '98.
- You could do a full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 4-6 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
- Full tank of gas plus Stabil. Keeping the tank full helps to block out moisture as there is less air trapped in the tank.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car, especially if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so). However, if you have the car on competition level tires, such soft compounds might be subject to more significant flat-spotting even over short term winter storage.
- Dust proof car cover (this step is obviously just a matter of preference, it won't hurt anything to leave it uncovered).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~16 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Only thing I would add for someone in a super cold cold region without a climate/semi-climate controlled garage would be to make sure your anti-freeze is up to the task of your winter temps. If you plan to see temps of -30°F then you're right on the border of where 50/50 coolant/water ratios would be at risk of freezing. Might want to go with a 60/40 or 70/30 ratio in that case.
07-29-2014, 04:32 AM
#11
Yes, there is electricity in the garage, but as stated in my last reply, I'd have to be going there way too often to do something as simple as that. The winter here lasts 6 months or more and stays at 0 or below for sometimes weeks straight, maybe a month straight with half of those days being in the negatives.
Seafoam is a suggestions I hear a lot of people say to do in the winter when the car is sitting. Can anyone elaborate on that or whether or not that should for sure be done?
Seafoam is a suggestions I hear a lot of people say to do in the winter when the car is sitting. Can anyone elaborate on that or whether or not that should for sure be done?
lol
07-29-2014, 12:15 PM
#12
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Ha I won't be taking it out in the winter, trust me! I bet driving a Z28 in the winter would literally total it.
07-29-2014, 12:17 PM
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Definitely too early to think about winter. Nothing could be further from my mind at this point. However, here is my general format for Chicago winter storage, which isn't too far off from MN winters (spent a great deal of time between 0 to -16°F this last winter):
- No need to start the car regularly just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter. Mine will often go for 6 months without being started or driven; and I've found that many of the common rumors associated with this practice are just that....rumors. My daily driven '02 Camaro developed leaks and seeps that the '98 never has even though the '98 is older and sits for half the year without being run. Mileage/usage caused more issues with my '02 than sitting ever did with my '98.
- You could do a full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 4-6 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
- Full tank of gas plus Stabil. Keeping the tank full helps to block out moisture as there is less air trapped in the tank.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car, especially if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so). However, if you have the car on competition level tires, such soft compounds might be subject to more significant flat-spotting even over short term winter storage.
- Dust proof car cover (this step is obviously just a matter of preference, it won't hurt anything to leave it uncovered).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~16 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Only thing I would add for someone in a super cold cold region without a climate/semi-climate controlled garage would be to make sure your anti-freeze is up to the task of your winter temps. If you plan to see temps of -30°F then you're right on the border of where 50/50 coolant/water ratios would be at risk of freezing. Might want to go with a 60/40 or 70/30 ratio in that case.
- No need to start the car regularly just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter. Mine will often go for 6 months without being started or driven; and I've found that many of the common rumors associated with this practice are just that....rumors. My daily driven '02 Camaro developed leaks and seeps that the '98 never has even though the '98 is older and sits for half the year without being run. Mileage/usage caused more issues with my '02 than sitting ever did with my '98.
- You could do a full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 4-6 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
- Full tank of gas plus Stabil. Keeping the tank full helps to block out moisture as there is less air trapped in the tank.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car, especially if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so). However, if you have the car on competition level tires, such soft compounds might be subject to more significant flat-spotting even over short term winter storage.
- Dust proof car cover (this step is obviously just a matter of preference, it won't hurt anything to leave it uncovered).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~16 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Only thing I would add for someone in a super cold cold region without a climate/semi-climate controlled garage would be to make sure your anti-freeze is up to the task of your winter temps. If you plan to see temps of -30°F then you're right on the border of where 50/50 coolant/water ratios would be at risk of freezing. Might want to go with a 60/40 or 70/30 ratio in that case.
07-29-2014, 12:18 PM
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07-29-2014, 12:20 PM
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Kansas is a far cry from Minnesota, but I try to start my cars and drive them once a week, though sometimes it's been over a month until all the snow and salt are gone. I know you're supposed to get the engine HOT to burn off all the condensation, acids, etc. and I don't always succeed. But a car is more than an engine, and seals need to be lubricated, fluids need to flow, gaskets need to warmed and tightened up.
So I get my cars up to operating temp regularly, although I don't always hold them there for as long as would be optimal.
So I get my cars up to operating temp regularly, although I don't always hold them there for as long as would be optimal.
07-29-2014, 12:24 PM
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i do it a bit different from others here and my car still runs good after 10 minnesota winters. i have an unheated attached garage where i start my car every 3 or 4 weeks and let run for 30 min in my driveway. i feel the valve springs benefit from not being stuck in same position as well as the tires. i put a trickle charge on the battery the night before startup in jan , feb , march. cheers! ps i change my oil in the spring, not the fall after only 3k miles or less.
Last edited by DANOZ28; 07-29-2014 at 12:33 PM.
07-29-2014, 12:39 PM
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A typical street engine sees greatest wear during a cold start, especially a cold weather cold start. Even a 0w oil will not provide optimal flow when a cold engine is first started in very cold weather. With this in mind, I see little reason to do a bunch of cold weather cold starts just to let the engine idle. Winter storage is around ~6 months or less, and this sort of short-term sitting has never harmed any engine that I have done this with (SBCs, LS1s, 3.8Ls, etc.) My opinion is to just let them sit, but if you do have the opportunity to actually drive the car then, as mentioned above, running a heater for a bit to warm the oil pan area wouldn't be a bad idea prior to firing the engine.
07-29-2014, 02:02 PM
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Definitely too early to think about winter. Nothing could be further from my mind at this point. However, here is my general format for Chicago winter storage, which isn't too far off from MN winters (spent a great deal of time between 0 to -16°F this last winter):
- No need to start the car regularly just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter. Mine will often go for 6 months without being started or driven; and I've found that many of the common rumors associated with this practice are just that....rumors. My daily driven '02 Camaro developed leaks and seeps that the '98 never has even though the '98 is older and sits for half the year without being run. Mileage/usage caused more issues with my '02 than sitting ever did with my '98.
- You could do a full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 4-6 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
- Full tank of gas plus Stabil. Keeping the tank full helps to block out moisture as there is less air trapped in the tank.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car, especially if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so). However, if you have the car on competition level tires, such soft compounds might be subject to more significant flat-spotting even over short term winter storage.
- Dust proof car cover (this step is obviously just a matter of preference, it won't hurt anything to leave it uncovered).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~16 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Only thing I would add for someone in a super cold cold region without a climate/semi-climate controlled garage would be to make sure your anti-freeze is up to the task of your winter temps. If you plan to see temps of -30°F then you're right on the border of where 50/50 coolant/water ratios would be at risk of freezing. Might want to go with a 60/40 or 70/30 ratio in that case.
- No need to start the car regularly just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter. Mine will often go for 6 months without being started or driven; and I've found that many of the common rumors associated with this practice are just that....rumors. My daily driven '02 Camaro developed leaks and seeps that the '98 never has even though the '98 is older and sits for half the year without being run. Mileage/usage caused more issues with my '02 than sitting ever did with my '98.
- You could do a full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 4-6 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
- Full tank of gas plus Stabil. Keeping the tank full helps to block out moisture as there is less air trapped in the tank.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car, especially if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so). However, if you have the car on competition level tires, such soft compounds might be subject to more significant flat-spotting even over short term winter storage.
- Dust proof car cover (this step is obviously just a matter of preference, it won't hurt anything to leave it uncovered).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~16 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Only thing I would add for someone in a super cold cold region without a climate/semi-climate controlled garage would be to make sure your anti-freeze is up to the task of your winter temps. If you plan to see temps of -30°F then you're right on the border of where 50/50 coolant/water ratios would be at risk of freezing. Might want to go with a 60/40 or 70/30 ratio in that case.
This ^^^ is all you need. I park my car(s) in mid December depending on the weather and they don't see daylight till mid to late March. Full tank of premium fuel with some Sea Foam in it, over inflate the tires to max psi on the side wall, carpet under the car, dryer sheets spread around the inside and outside to deter the rodents and a good car cover. I don't start it at all during that time frame, I do pop the hood every 6 weeks or so and leave the trickle charger on the battery for a few days. I have been doing this same process for over 30 years with a multitude of 1st, 2nd, 3rd and now my 4th gen F-body with out ever any problems except for maybe a dead battery every now and then but its usually because they were 5+ years old.
07-29-2014, 03:30 PM
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This ^^^ is all you need. I park my car(s) in mid December depending on the weather and they don't see daylight till mid to late March. Full tank of premium fuel with some Sea Foam in it, over inflate the tires to max psi on the side wall, carpet under the car, dryer sheets spread around the inside and outside to deter the rodents and a good car cover. I don't start it at all during that time frame, I do pop the hood every 6 weeks or so and leave the trickle charger on the battery for a few days. I have been doing this same process for over 30 years with a multitude of 1st, 2nd, 3rd and now my 4th gen F-body with out ever any problems except for maybe a dead battery every now and then but its usually because they were 5+ years old.