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What is the best ambient air operating temperature?

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Old 11-28-2014, 09:29 PM
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Default What is the best ambient air operating temperature?

Straight forward question, in what outdoor temperature do you get maximum performance out of these cars?
Old 11-28-2014, 10:45 PM
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There isn't a straight forward answer to that question, Are you talking about engine performance or overall car performance? Engines like cold air but the car may not perform in cold temperatures because the tires won't grip as well in the cold. (colder air is denser, and a given volume would contain more oxygen) You also have to factor in barometric pressure, humidity and so on.
Old 11-29-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
There isn't a straight forward answer to that question, Are you talking about engine performance or overall car performance? Engines like cold air but the car may not perform in cold temperatures because the tires won't grip as well in the cold. (colder air is denser, and a given volume would contain more oxygen) You also have to factor in barometric pressure, humidity and so on.
Temperature for the engine. What is the best outside air temperature for the engine to operate in. Forget humidity, I'm not talking about tires either.
Old 11-29-2014, 08:14 PM
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A perfect day is classified as 59 degrees and barometric pressure of 29.92
Old 11-29-2014, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by N20zuki
A perfect day is classified as 59 degrees and barometric pressure of 29.92
That's just the standard used to compare BHP. You most likely got that information here... http://www.mazda3club.com/3rd-gen-en...-output-18386/

You need to read the whole post.

There isn't a real perfect temperature, It would vary from engine to engine. You can buy a dry ice intercooler (Dry ice is -110* F) actual AIT's will be higher but still much cooler than ambient temperature.

As long as you could keep heat in the engine itself the lower the temperature in the intake the better.
Old 11-29-2014, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
That's just the standard used to compare BHP. You most likely got that information here... http://www.mazda3club.com/3rd-gen-en...-output-18386/

You need to read the whole post.

There isn't a real perfect temperature, It would vary from engine to engine. You can buy a dry ice intercooler (Dry ice is -110* F) actual AIT's will be higher but still much cooler than ambient temperature.

As long as you could keep heat in the engine itself the lower the temperature in the intake the better.
Actually I got the information from my brain, I am a aviator, more specifically a C-130H and C-130J Loadmaster as well as a maintenance technician on both aircrafts. And that is considered as perfect day for optimum performance of an engine as well as density of air, it's the International Standard Atmosphere (ISA) but obviously they must of ripped the info from a Mazda forum.

He asked for what "outdoor temperature" do you get maximum performance, So yes I did read the entire post.
Old 11-30-2014, 09:30 AM
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everything I have raced has been at a hobby type level , bolt ons on different platforms mostly and I have always gotten the best ets with DA's in the -1500 to -2000 range. Usually those nights at the track were in the 30* to 40* range ,cold, still, high barometric pressure evenings.

I also notice power jump up further (seat of the pants) when the temps are below 20* just the track isn't open up here that time of year to see further improvements. On a previous platform I used to race quite frequently every car I had was always mentioned as being a factory freak on the forums but it was really just the cold air lol.

Atco in jersey is famous for its "mineshaft air" because they stay open into December and prep the heck out of the track so if you can find traction with temps in the 20's when the da's get well below -2000 the et's can get downright silly for the amount of mods.

As long as your cooling system/thermostat etc... allow your engine to come up at least into low operating range so oil flows freely and parts expand to around normal size I would think cooler the better.... don't forget to jack up your rear end and let it idle in gear long enough for your rear to come up to temp if its cold too ,cold thick gear oil could cause failures.

I think n2ozuki's info is geared towards optimum longevity ,efficiency , steady state operation etc.. it sounds like his background should make him knowledgeable in that area. What I am saying is more geared toward hunting for et & power goals even if its a bit cold for the factors he is considering.

Last edited by murphinator; 11-30-2014 at 10:02 AM.
Old 11-30-2014, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by murphinator
everything I have raced has been at a hobby type level , bolt ons on different platforms mostly and I have always gotten the best ets with DA's in the -1500 to -2000 range. Usually those nights at the track were in the 30* to 40* range ,cold, still, high barometric pressure evenings.

I also notice power jump up further (seat of the pants) when the temps are below 20* just the track isn't open up here that time of year to see further improvements. On a previous platform I used to race quite frequently every car I had was always mentioned as being a factory freak on the forums but it was really just the cold air lol.

Atco in jersey is famous for its "mineshaft air" because they stay open into December and prep the heck out of the track so if you can find traction with temps in the 20's when the da's get well below -2000 the et's can get downright silly for the amount of mods.

As long as your cooling system/thermostat etc... allow your engine to come up at least into low operating range so oil flows freely and parts expand to around normal size I would think cooler the better.... don't forget to jack up your rear end and let it idle in gear long enough for your rear to come up to temp if its cold too ,cold thick gear oil could cause failures.

I think n2ozuki's info is geared towards optimum longevity , steady state operation etc.. it sounds like his background should make him knowledgeable in that area. What I am saying is more geared toward hunting for et & power goals even if its a bit cold for the factors he is considering.

I whole heartedly agree here, Its just the rule of thumb that the colder the temps, the denser the air and lower then sea level for correction for Barometric pressure that you will make more power. But then at a certain point you reach the tire vs grip problem from the tires becoming hard and cold ground temps that affect traction.

But in the end, with these fuel injection vehicles using a IAT sensor its able to handle fuel enrichment with the colder air to make the engine run better but not necessarily more efficient since more fuel will be consumed.

In a nutshell, colder air makes more power.
Old 12-03-2014, 02:06 PM
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The colder the better in terms of power.

No properly running engine should have an issue keeping operating temps, even in sub 0 degree temps. So the colder the air, the more power.

Now other things, such as suspension or tires, do have proper operating temps where it may indeed be too cold for them. But as far as the engine, cold is good. The only time cold is remotely bad is when it makes the oil too thick to circulate.



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