too much for a daily driver?
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So I recently picked up a trans am, my old one got tboned, its my only car so obviously its my daily, the mods list is as follows:
3400 stall tci torque converter
3.73 gears
Stainless works longtubes and ory
Bbk intake
SLP loudmouth
Comp cams xr2 cam
So what do you guys think, too much?
3400 stall tci torque converter
3.73 gears
Stainless works longtubes and ory
Bbk intake
SLP loudmouth
Comp cams xr2 cam
So what do you guys think, too much?
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I wish I could give you the idle rpm, but one flaw the car had when I bought it is the tach doesn't work lol, and right now nitto nt555r's but there almost completely worn so new ones are on the way, and what do you mean by tight or loose? I've never had a car with an aftermarket stall
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Tight-the factory OEM stall convertor(1800) is tight. A tight convertor,at engine idle,will try to move the car forward when dropped into gear.
Loose-at engine idle,will not try to move the car forward when dropped into gear.
The rated stall rpm of a convertor is also considered its' flash rpm.
Rated stall rpm does not correlate to tightness/looseness.
My TCI 2800 was loose,my Yank SS3600 is tight.
A loose convertor is not considered friendly to stop'n'go city driving.
Loose-at engine idle,will not try to move the car forward when dropped into gear.
The rated stall rpm of a convertor is also considered its' flash rpm.
Rated stall rpm does not correlate to tightness/looseness.
My TCI 2800 was loose,my Yank SS3600 is tight.
A loose convertor is not considered friendly to stop'n'go city driving.
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No suspension mods, and tires do break loose pretty easy if I put my foot in it too much but the rear tires are the nitto nt555r's and they probably only have 30% tread left, new tires I ordered are supposed to he here Wednesday so that should solve that for the most part
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What tires are you getting ?
The stock OEM rear suspension leaves a lot to be desired,unless you're comfortable with the quality of 'ride' you're currently getting. Shocks and Lower control arm relocation brackets should be priority if you want to improve. Shocks to help eliminate potential 'wheel hop' which causes rearend internal problems and the relos to aid in forward traction.
The stock OEM rear suspension leaves a lot to be desired,unless you're comfortable with the quality of 'ride' you're currently getting. Shocks and Lower control arm relocation brackets should be priority if you want to improve. Shocks to help eliminate potential 'wheel hop' which causes rearend internal problems and the relos to aid in forward traction.
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Yeah she's a bit loud lol, but had a street and dyno tune done and made 350 to the wheels but could be more, in the process we found that the torque converter isn't locking up, so either its a non locking converter or its an electrical issue,