What's a good setup for mostly highway driving? ('02 A4 Z/28)
#1
What's a good setup for mostly highway driving? ('02 A4 Z/28)
I have an '02 A4 Z/28 which is my daily driver and my driving is mostly highway during the week. I live in Florida so speeds are typically high and I was wondering how I could setup the car for better highway behavior.
Things I wish were better were high speed handling and mid-range power. The A4 just feels mushy at times and I'm always out of the powerband. The car runs strong but it's stock except for a lid, SSRA, an adjustable panhard bar and upgraded rear lower control arms. Car only has 57k miles.
I feel kinda stupid for asking but with so many choices out there, I really don't know what direction to go in. I running a square setup with Nitto NT555 G2 275/35R18 on all four corners. I suspect new shocks/springs and sway bars and a stall would go a long way.
Just trying to get some advice before I start spending money. Thanks!
Things I wish were better were high speed handling and mid-range power. The A4 just feels mushy at times and I'm always out of the powerband. The car runs strong but it's stock except for a lid, SSRA, an adjustable panhard bar and upgraded rear lower control arms. Car only has 57k miles.
I feel kinda stupid for asking but with so many choices out there, I really don't know what direction to go in. I running a square setup with Nitto NT555 G2 275/35R18 on all four corners. I suspect new shocks/springs and sway bars and a stall would go a long way.
Just trying to get some advice before I start spending money. Thanks!
#4
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full boltons with a tune. get a quality stall and LTs. if you want you can go with a crank pulley. i have a power bond which is supposed to be top notch.
a set of konis will really tighten things up nicely. see my man sam strano. he'll set you up.
what gears do you have? it really doesnt matter im just curious but 2.73s or 3.23s will be fine and need no changing for what you want.
also,get whaTS NEEDED FOR ADdED cooling with a stall. trans cooler ect. maybe even a deeper pan. perhaps a shift kit.
a set of konis will really tighten things up nicely. see my man sam strano. he'll set you up.
what gears do you have? it really doesnt matter im just curious but 2.73s or 3.23s will be fine and need no changing for what you want.
also,get whaTS NEEDED FOR ADdED cooling with a stall. trans cooler ect. maybe even a deeper pan. perhaps a shift kit.
#5
full boltons with a tune. get a quality stall and LTs. if you want you can go with a crank pulley. i have a power bond which is supposed to be top notch.
a set of konis will really tighten things up nicely. see my man sam strano. he'll set you up.
what gears do you have? it really doesnt matter im just curious but 2.73s or 3.23s will be fine and need no changing for what you want.
also,get whaTS NEEDED FOR ADdED cooling with a stall. trans cooler ect. maybe even a deeper pan. perhaps a shift kit.
a set of konis will really tighten things up nicely. see my man sam strano. he'll set you up.
what gears do you have? it really doesnt matter im just curious but 2.73s or 3.23s will be fine and need no changing for what you want.
also,get whaTS NEEDED FOR ADdED cooling with a stall. trans cooler ect. maybe even a deeper pan. perhaps a shift kit.
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A stall will be the single best mod you can do for your car and it will always keep you in the powerband. My 3600 stall doesn't fall below 5100rpm's on shifts and I makes your car feel beast. I would also do long tubes if you have the money so you can get it all tuned together.
For handling I would do koni str.t shocks/struts and either bmr or strano springs. Not breaking the bank with them and the feel really good compared to our stock setup. That's the best mod imo you can do for handling, followed by lower control arms.
The stall will be exactly what you're looking for though for performance, you will not regret it for even a second.
For handling I would do koni str.t shocks/struts and either bmr or strano springs. Not breaking the bank with them and the feel really good compared to our stock setup. That's the best mod imo you can do for handling, followed by lower control arms.
The stall will be exactly what you're looking for though for performance, you will not regret it for even a second.
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I agree with the others; 3600-4000 stall speed, some LTs/good exhaust and basic suspension upgrades (such as shocks) will give you exactly what you're looking for. The car will really impress you with those few changes.
#11
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#1 good shocks by far
#2 properly sized swaybars (35mm front, 22mm rear)
#3 good springs (Strano)
#4 watts link if you have the money
Everything else is minuscule by comparison.
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1LE optioned examples came with 32mm front/21mm rear bars.
#14
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If I remember right some 1LEs got a 35mm front bar. All depends on the spring option they got as well.
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You may want to tell BMR that they don't do squat, because they talk about the stock ones flexing and not giving consistency. They say their lower control arms add cornering consistency in a straight line and in the corners, which means they help handling. It's right here in the description http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...271&superpro=0 The OP said he wanted better handling, and they will help. I didn't realize he already had them though.
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Not when 1LE was a factory/GM option, at least in the LS1 years. I think things changed when SLP started offering the package as supplemental/additional Y2Y content on SS.
#17
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if you want a faster car you would:
build the trans + custom converter
then
turbocharge the stock engine
blankets, coatings, wraps, keep the underhood temps down (here in Florida this is the most important part) and use methanol for safety (pretty important in this climate/traffic)
build the trans + custom converter
then
turbocharge the stock engine
blankets, coatings, wraps, keep the underhood temps down (here in Florida this is the most important part) and use methanol for safety (pretty important in this climate/traffic)
#19
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You will notice a difference in making the rear a little stiffer, but that doesn't mean that it will actually handle better because of it. They are more of a strait line mod than anything else.
You may want to tell BMR that they don't do squat, because they talk about the stock ones flexing and not giving consistency. They say their lower control arms add cornering consistency in a straight line and in the corners, which means they help handling. It's right here in the description http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...271&superpro=0 The OP said he wanted better handling, and they will help. I didn't realize he already had them though.
http://www.crystalridge.net/cars/bushings.htm
Remember just because the car feels "stiffer" does not means it actually handles better.
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Don't get me started on the BS BMR spews. The stock LCA's are made to flex as part of the suspension design.
http://www.crystalridge.net/cars/bushings.htm
Remember just because the car feels "stiffer" does not means it actually handles better.
http://www.crystalridge.net/cars/bushings.htm
Remember just because the car feels "stiffer" does not means it actually handles better.
It's to each his own really, not everyone agrees on things. To me I felt that they helped and there's been other's that have said the same thing. To you, it may not have felt like they did anything. I didn't read the article yet, but the link shows bushings in it. I'm sure that some of it has to do with bushings, but our stock parts flex too much. I want my car to feel solid and know exactly what it's going to do, and it personally felt better after they were installed.