01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

If the 10 bolt lasts, it wont last long at that power level behind an m6 and an aggressive driver.

2fast2z28

im looking for a direct drop in rear either 9 inch or 12 bolt.. what would be a good gear ratio and what’s the cheapest route/site to purchase?

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

AGX adjustables would fall under the not catergory in drag racing. Stock shocks would be better. Chrs1313 went 9's with stock rear shocks in his car and adjustable coil overs up front.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

Are you married to that cam? I've never seen anyone make impressive power or run exceptional ET's with that cam. So many better choices out there. The *RIGHT* cam would allow you to spray much less.

Also, if it was my car, I'd be getting as much weight as possible out of it. My 99 was 2750 w/o driver. I had a 224/224 114 cam with stock untouched 243 heads and upgraded single valve springs. First pass with that combo went 11.2x, then a 11.1 pass next. Third pass I hit the nitrous (Nitrous Outlet Halo spray bar with no jet), it was a cold night, 40 degrees, the bottle had less than 3lbs in it and only 600psi after heating it up. Hit the button in the 60', let out, then got back in half way through second, then all of third, and it clicked 4th right before the traps. Went 10.6x@128mph. I sold the car the next spring, but was very confident that the setup would have gone bottom 10's with the tune figured out and about 150hp worth of nitrous since that's about all a -3 line will flow.

2fast2z28

im not married to the cam but I’m definitely gonna use it for a summer I don’t know much about it other than it a custom gm hot cam. You have any vids of your car ? What rear end/gear? We’re you on 28 inch slicks

2fast2z28

[QUOTE=HCI2000SS;19765874]Nice! You got all the accessories yet like heater, pressure gauge, timing puller, etc?[/QUOTE


I have a timing pullor stand alone fuel system purge kit waiting on the bottle heater.. I still need to figure out what fuel pressure to start out with/what size slicks I need, and to buy my rearend.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

I'd avoid the 'hot cam' if at all possible. Sell it and get literally anything else if you already have it. It's a quarter step better than a stock cam. That cam was designed nearly 20 years ago, and things have come a long way since then. Heck, you were really making BIG power back 15-20 years ago if you cracked 400whp. Now you can make 500whp on a stock bottom end with the RIGHT parts. What heads do you have? You said '242', but I'm assuming you mean 243 LS6 factory heads. Who did the port work?

I was running a stock 3.42 gear in a stock 10 bolt (which came out of my donor car with 153k miles on it). My car was an automatic. Here is the video of the 10.60 pass.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

That is the car at idle with a Thunder Racing 224/224 114lsa .581/.581 lift with stock 243 LS6 heads and OBX headers.

2fast2z28

[QUOTE=Dirty Vegas;19778940]I'd avoid the 'hot cam' if at all possible. Sell it and get literally anything else if you already have it. It's a quarter step better than a stock cam. That cam was designed nearly 20 years ago, and things have come a long way since then. Heck, you were really making BIG power back 15-20 years ago if you cracked 400whp. Now you can make 500whp on a stock bottom end with the RIGHT parts. What heads do you have? You said '242', but I'm assuming you mean 243 LS6 factory heads. Who did the port work?

I was running a stock 3.42 gear in a stock 10 bolt (which came out of my donor car with 153k miles on it). My car was an automatic. Here is the video of the 10.60 pass.

[/QUOT


Heads are 241 not sure who ported /decked them They came from a speed shop in Chicago also said the gm cam was custom grind.

Damn that car moves out what suspension mods/ tire size?

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

[QUOTE=2fast2z28;19778963]Man, it's never good to not know the specs of a cam before stabbing it into an engine. That is a recipe for disaster. Do yourself a favor, take a pic of the front end of the cam. There should be some info on there so that hopefully someone can decode it and tell you EXACTLY what you have. Did you buy the cam from someone here on ls1tech? If so, can you link the for sale thread?

Thanks for the compliment on my car. That was a 1.42 60' on a 26 inch tall Hoosier Drag Radial. I had some significant suspension mods. I had QA1 12 way adjustable coil overs on the front with 275lb springs, removed the front sway bar, QA1 12 way adjustable shocks in back, stock 115k mile springs, Pavlock Performance aluminum lower control arms with rod ends, Spohn 1 inch solid rear sway bar. I did have a stock torque arm and panhard bar. I didn't run any kind of subframe connector.

2fast2z28

[QUOTE=Dirty Vegas;19778976]
car was was bought off Craigslist I haven’t been in the engine just told around 420hp the guy I got it from seemed like he spent lots of time and energy on the car..

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

Gotcha! I didn't know all that stuff was already installed. Duh. Have any pics of the car?

2fast2z28

Best priced complete 9inch or 12 bolt rear end? Drop in ready.

2fast2z28

200 shot quick 3rd gear pull hows it look?

Utinator

The cheapest rear end I have found, is the Quick Performance 9". I priced one at about $2700 shipped. Here's the parts I was planning on getting:

-Yukon iron center (p/n: F9YNC)
-Eaton Tru-Trac Posi
-9" axle with fabricated housing (lighter/stronger and $100 extra)
-31 Spline Moser axles
-1/2" Wheel studs
-4-channel ABS (if you don't have traction control, you don't need this)
-Comes fully assembled.

I was told this set-up would be good for 600hp. You may want a 35-spline axle and either a Detroit Locker or a full spool if go higher on the HP.