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I kept all the parts in order to each valve. Are guides and seals two different parts? Looks like there maybe two more parts before all that is left is cast metal.
Looks like a rubber piece and metal top hat below that sitting on the surface of the head.
Guides are installed into the cylinder had and are clearance'd for the stem of the valves. Valve seals are those top hats so just use a some pliers and with firm pressure carefully remove them from the posts.
Guides are installed into the cylinder had and are clearance'd for the stem of the valves. Valve seals are those top hats so just use a some pliers and with firm pressure carefully remove them from the posts.
Looks like I have some type of two piece set up. I have the seal (ext and int are both different size) and separate spring base for each. Was there a updated version solid piece that covers the whole valve guild?
You don't have to replace the bottom piece if it's the two piece type but if you can run the top hat style like the ones above then run those. You can only run beehive springs with those so if you go to aftermarket dual springs kits you will use the early style valve stem seal. I believe Texas Speed sells a dual spring kit with their designed valve stem seals.
Texas speed uses a brand new patented 1 piece seat/seal similar to stock but extra clearance inside for the dual springs. The come in every dual spring kit they sell now for stock guides.
We have the viton 1 piece set and can include them with our complete rebuild kits.
I was reading that I need to replace the M8 side cap bolts. New bolts will have the sealant applied. Is that the only reason to replace them? Couldn't I just add some sealant under the bolt head as a new one would have?
Use old bolts. lock tite on threads rtv under head.
You bearings and other bolts will be fine.
Thank you. So with further development I found out they did a 0 balance on the crank only. When looking at the crank i do see some small couple 32nd size dents in the lobes. Could this be part of the balance? I called asking why they wouldnt recommend a total assembly balance and I am sure it is partially my fault for piece mealing this project to them. **** poor planning on my part. Was intially to be nothing more than cleaning up the crank and cleaning up bore. When the bores went to a HONE job I went ahead with a 5.7 bore and had them do press swap on the pistons. What sucks is that I will have to pay again to have the pins removed again just to have them balance. err!@
Again sucks but live and learn.
If a crank has been 0 balanced would it be ok to just have the rod/piston balanced separate to a 0 balance or am I not getting the whole balance?
Ive built about 20 or so iron 5.7s with numerous cranks. To be honest only 1 needed actual balancing. The rest were checked and balanced anyway but were well within tolerance to run as is no issue.
You're going to ask what the tolerance is, and that i dont know. The machine shop told me that. i wish i had a better answer but finding spare time for that research can be difficult.
Machine Shop Details
Magnuflux
Clean
Bore to 5.7
Install cam bearing
Crank Polish
Presswork (reused the rods and bought some flat top pistons/w piston rings from ws6store)
Align bore-Not sure what that was for
Assemble bottom
Cam bearings
Main bearings
Rod bearings
I'm looking at many different build options and this is one path.... How much did this cost if you don't mind me asking?
Shop work on my 5.3 was $850. Magnaflux, clean, cam bearings, hone, piston press on, 10 off deck, 10 off heads, three angle, check valve size spec. I did all assembly, used the WS6 kit with the book. I sprayed my bare metal/cylinders with a liberal coating of WD40, kept covered with some large shop rags.
Getting ready to drop the assembly off to have balanced. One thing I want to make sure is the rod direction.
The pictures above show the pre assembly with the all the rods pointed in the same direction. After removing them today I noticed all the Large chamfer are pointed in the same direction. Should the large chamfer be point towards the crank weights?
Checked the ring gaps today.
Top rings: .022-.024
Second Ring: .025-.026
Service limits for factory range:
Top rings: .020-.023
Second Rings: .028-.033
Should I be concerned about the top rings? When using a feeler gauge, should the gauge slide smooth in the gap or is it more fit no fit with pressure on the gauge to squeeze between the gap?
09-26-2018, 08:26 PM
