Exhaust Carbon
#1
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#4
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It's running rich for sure. Needs tuned correctly.
#6
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Also put good o2s in it. Like ntk , no Bosch or cheap junk. I've banged a header on a bump. Then whole car went to crap. Replaced o2s and away went my problems. What I'm saying is make sure you have good sensors and no vacuum leeks/ fresh plugs gapped correctly. Then get it on a Dyno with someone that knows what there doing. Your exhaust is mostly new, I can't see that being the problem aka ( lots ove 25yr old carbon). Run it a few more times at full warmed up. Then lay down some cardboard, if it still blows black crap everywhere out the pipes, your super rich bro..... Just my .03¢ wourth. Happy wrenching sir.
#7
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Also put good o2s in it. Like ntk , no Bosch or cheap junk. I've banged a header on a bump. Then whole car went to crap. Replaced o2s and away went my problems. What I'm saying is make sure you have good sensors and no vacuum leeks/ fresh plugs gapped correctly. Then get it on a Dyno with someone that knows what there doing. Your exhaust is mostly new, I can't see that being the problem aka ( lots ove 25yr old carbon). Run it a few more times at full warmed up. Then lay down some cardboard, if it still blows black crap everywhere out the pipes, your super rich bro..... Just my .03¢ wourth. Happy wrenching sir.
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#8
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The Bosch wideband sensors are what you need for the Holley system.
I think the above poster was referring to narrow band sensors.
What is the terminator screen reporting on the air/fuel ratio?
I think the above poster was referring to narrow band sensors.
What is the terminator screen reporting on the air/fuel ratio?
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Kjduvall (07-13-2021)
#9
#10
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The spark plugs will tell if you're actually running rich. If you have an area you can kill the engine after a run/pull so the engine doesn't idle then swap out the plugs you can get a correct air/fuel reading. I use a small 5/8 hole saw to cut the metal off of the plug so I can read the porcelain.