300bhp/ton

It's too do with how our cars recieve airflow. Unlike most others cars intake air does not come from the front of the car, i.e. a radiator grill. In fact cooling air doesn't even come from this location.

Our cars have a lower air dam under the rad assy. This creates a high pressure area of air that is then forced upwards. There is a large plastic screen in front of the rad, this directs flow over the rad assy and onto the engine.

The stock airbox only has an opening in the front, now although this doesn't directly feed off of this air it is where it sources it from.

The FRA opens up the bottom of the air box and removes part of the plastic screen on top of the rad, this is essentially tapping into this high pressure cooler air from the air dam.

At speed the air flow will be very good and it will be cool air (or as close to ambiant as your are likely to get. The faster you go the better it will work, because the air dam needs air flow velocity to work.

However if you are at standstill you have no air flow at all the air dam simply isn't working at all. And this means the air trapped between the plastic screen and rad will become more heatsoaked. Once you are moving it will clear and become useful again, but from a dig it will raise IAT (intake air temps).

In stock trim the airbox would be taking air from infront of the rad screen and not behind it, hence better IAT's from a dig. But it then looses out once moving.

The FTRA or SSRA use ducting from below and infront of the bumper. This results in two affects.

Firstly it acts as a cool air duct, it is taking intake air away from the heatsoaked engine bay/rad assy. This works at speed, but crucially at standstill also.

Secondly, as it is a narrow ducting which then opens out into the air box (an opening of the passage) there is cause to claim that at speed it will increase air pressure (alla Ram Air). But but having this ducting it also helps with a thing called air box resonance.

Most of the gains however are due to IAT's.

brink

i checked my maf today.. someone already de-screened it.. what should i do?

Ls1CamaroGuy87

iTrader: (7)

^^get another one I guess

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

drink beer and forget about it. if you have problems in the future, drink more beer and get another one, then forget about it.

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

thats all i needed to know...

but the pros of the RA deff out weigh the cons....

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Someone needs to come out with a solenoid operated SSRA that stays closed until you hit about 20 mph, ala the old '70 Chevelle SS (which was vacuum operated, I know) This would allow the best of both worlds. Just a thought...

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

Forget about it. De-screened for two years and no issues at all.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

the 69 Camaro was the first vaccum operated cold air induction i recall.
the old sales slogan "insert foot, open mouth"

BLKWS.6

I bet rolling on 1/4 tank of gas does more than all that crap you listed without the change of sucking something into your MAF wires or coating them with oil.

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

Whenever my car was getting tuned the shop descreened my MAF (had a stock one to put back on if it didnt work) and it was worth about 5RWHP if i remember correctly, and no ill effects. My car runs rich, not lean.

BLKWS.6

5rwhp is nothing. That could be due to different temperature, airflow, dyno error, ect.

unit213

...and I would HIGHLY recommend that it be descreened.

Porting the MAF though? Just descreen it and leave
it alone.

BLKWS.6

I dunno man, when I changed my air filter on my WS.6 I saw a few pieces of bug/whatnot plastered on that screen, I dont claim to know how tough those MAF wires are, but I dont want crap slamming into them.