View Poll Results: What should I do?
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Keep the SS or go for a Snake?
#121
Originally Posted by JayplaySS2
You DO realize to have a 10 sec daily driver with manners and NO nitrous you too will need a super charger.
THEN you get nitrous. Then you STILL hope you have enough power for your next race.
THEN you get nitrous. Then you STILL hope you have enough power for your next race.
That comment has absolutely nothing to do with what you quoted me saying... who said anything about a 10 sec DD? Certainly wasnt me.
#122
Originally Posted by jewbacca
The reason I am going for a cam right now is money. For full exhaust it would be around $700, about the same for a good TC. But as for the cam, I'm getting a brand new GM Hotcam kit for $225. And, because I know not everyone read it, before you say "just get a credit card to get the exhaust/TC", I already tried, and no one will give me one. So for now the cam is my best bet. It will give me a good boost in power, and it's right in my price range. Plus I'll be doing the install myself.
Let's be logical, it takes alot of work to get a cam in there, and plus wouldn't you want to save and put better parts in at the same time. Plus you'll bust your butt to get what 30hp? There is not sense in doing all that work for so little! Save your money, if nothing else pay an extra note on your car or buy some new SS floor matts.....better yet buy a ported LS6 oil pump and an LS2 timing chain....
then you won't have a CHOICE but to buy a bad *** cam! then scrape up some good valve train parts....or save a little bit more for some of those TSP heads that are about a grand. Then you can just roast some goofy kid in a S/C mustang that can't drive it for poop!
I've been on a couple thread telling some people that are kind of going throught the same thought processes I was when i first got into my car, it sounds like I am spreading doubt or telling them how to spend dough. My two cents is buy NOTHING right now, wait your butt off and do small stuff because you are going to learn a little more and buy what works best as you see through other people's experiences and your own research. Hold your horses dude and you will eventually eat mustags for breakfast. Oh and my other two cents which now equals four is that if you are starting to think about money and what you have in a car vs. horsepower per dollar, get rid of your car. I went through that phase too almost got rid of it too! It is paid for, just sits there right now while I am building up funds, uninsured and the whole nine while I am driving a pos truck with 250K mi that likes to make more noises than a pack of fake blonde ****** in a fudge packing factory. It's all in how much you are going to sacrifice. Like you I made sure it wouldn't be my wallet or three years of credit card debt so I took a little bit more difficult path.....it got even more complicated when I had a bit of back luck and nearly totaled it. I thought it was never going to be the same, well in some way it wasn't but hell it is going to be better than ever and while that sucks to have to work it back up to par in the end I'll be glad I got that over selling it and paying a note on something else I wouldn't be as happy with. I dunno just don't get rid of your car. It is always going to be more pain than pleasure so hang it up, sleep is a crutch and homeless people always have boxes....at least you'll be able to sleep under your car, kust kidding!
#123
Originally Posted by Ntimid8r7
That comment has absolutely nothing to do with what you quoted me saying... who said anything about a 10 sec DD? Certainly wasnt me.
#124
Originally Posted by JayplaySS2
I was saying YOU TOO would need FI to get into 10's AND still maintain great street manners. That was for your s/c comment. You will not have a H/C LS1 be in the 10's w/ a street gear (3:42-3:55) W/O major cam lope/gears/stall. Thats all. Anyone wanting faster than 11's (like me) will have n/x or FI on the LS1.
It's only cheating if you lie about using it, but that goes for any major mod.
#125
Originally Posted by sapper_daddy
A kit? Man save that money, when I got my car that was one of the first things I "thought" I wanted to do, a hotcam! There is a VERY good reason so few people run that cam on here. Stop and think about it for a second. You can do alot better with not much more money.
Let's be logical, it takes alot of work to get a cam in there, and plus wouldn't you want to save and put better parts in at the same time. Plus you'll bust your butt to get what 30hp? There is not sense in doing all that work for so little! Save your money, if nothing else pay an extra note on your car or buy some new SS floor matts.....better yet buy a ported LS6 oil pump and an LS2 timing chain....
Let's be logical, it takes alot of work to get a cam in there, and plus wouldn't you want to save and put better parts in at the same time. Plus you'll bust your butt to get what 30hp? There is not sense in doing all that work for so little! Save your money, if nothing else pay an extra note on your car or buy some new SS floor matts.....better yet buy a ported LS6 oil pump and an LS2 timing chain....
#126
This argument can go on forever there is always going to be people on both sides that have valid points. What it comes down to is you can make either car fast the Cobra is quicker to start but also more expensive with the potential to put out higher number stock (the forged internals) but that is what the extra cash gets you. On the other hand you can buy an LS1 F-body for cheap and make the same power as the cobra with only a few mods but I can guarantee you that a 500rwhp stock LS1 will not last as long as a 500rwhp stock Cobra engine. If you go and forge the LS1 stroke it bore it what ever to make higher cubes so you can make streetable hp the cost gap between the two starts to fade away.
Last edited by CaseyEaterMach1; 03-28-2007 at 10:19 AM.
#127
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Originally Posted by 99ccz28
Thats more or less what i was getting at...the hotcam is a waste and youre not going to gain much if anything with that cam without full exhaust...even with full exhaust it still isnt worth the money. you can get a bigger cam and still be very streetable. i would save the money also.
#128
cutout about 60 installed
ls6 intake manifold anywhere from 250 to 300 in the parts section
port your own throttle body
that i would think would give you more power than just throwing a cam in there
trust me...i have a 224 cam with a 112 lsa in my a4 and everyone always says not to go with a 112 lsa in an auot and i have a mail tune from tsp and it is VERY streetable and has a nice lope with a good kick in power
ls6 intake manifold anywhere from 250 to 300 in the parts section
port your own throttle body
that i would think would give you more power than just throwing a cam in there
trust me...i have a 224 cam with a 112 lsa in my a4 and everyone always says not to go with a 112 lsa in an auot and i have a mail tune from tsp and it is VERY streetable and has a nice lope with a good kick in power
#129
Originally Posted by jewbacca
Well right now I don't want to have a much bigger cam. My car right now is my DD, so I don't need a big honkin thing in there. I want to go nitrous this winter, so I will put in a nice NO2 cam in there when I get comuter, but for right now I need something a lot more streetable. And everyone keeps saying save your money, I really can't. I'm going to be getting about $300 on my tax return, and that's all I will have to play with. I really have no money to save. And I'm going to do all the work myself, so to it seems like $225 is a good deal. If anyone can to me what would be a better mod with that much.
1) what does the bigger cam have to do with it being a daily driver?
you are still going to lose gas milage so jump up to nicer cam and have something to back up your "sound" because I promise you are going to be real disappointed....
2) so you are going to change cams twice in nine months, and you want to save money? Sounds like you should save your 225 dollars for your nitrous cam!
3) you always have money to save! if you wanted to save money you could dirve a cheaper car, stop eating out, not buy a hot cam, you will find money if you need money!
not openly trying to bash you but rather help you understand why this is an unpopular setup.....it is what it is. not worth it for the money, but that is your dough, just as long as you drive an F-bod
AND when we say "save your money" WE ARE TALKING ABOUT THAT 300 DOLLARS FROM YOUR TAX RETURN!
#131
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Originally Posted by Deep Blue
Unless you need 4 seats, you may as well go for the C5Z. More than a match for a Stock Cobra in straight line plus you get much better handling.
#132
Originally Posted by jewbacca
Well right now I don't want to have a much bigger cam. My car right now is my DD, so I don't need a big honkin thing in there. I want to go nitrous this winter, so I will put in a nice NO2 cam in there when I get comuter, but for right now I need something a lot more streetable. And everyone keeps saying save your money, I really can't. I'm going to be getting about $300 on my tax return, and that's all I will have to play with. I really have no money to save. And I'm going to do all the work myself, so to it seems like $225 is a good deal. If anyone can to me what would be a better mod with that much.
There are a LOT of stealth cams that will be as good as the hotcam in performance. Get the cam, then decide.
#134
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Originally Posted by Deep Blue
Sorry. What about an LS2 GTO ?
#135
You can get a LS2 GTO for much cheaper than a Cobra. My G/F got an 06 6-spd with after market rims, corsa exhaust, after market spoiler, short shifter, CAI with 6,000 miles for around 24. Plus they are more comfortable than any Cobra or F-body but they are also slower than a Cobra and very similar in performance to a 01-02 f-body.
#136
Originally Posted by JayplaySS2
I was saying YOU TOO would need FI to get into 10's AND still maintain great street manners. That was for your s/c comment. You will not have a H/C LS1 be in the 10's w/ a street gear (3:42-3:55) W/O major cam lope/gears/stall. Thats all. Anyone wanting faster than 11's (like me) will have n/x or FI on the LS1.
408, 418 or 427 shortblock topped with ETP LS7 heads, LS7 intake, 238/244 112 LSA cam (or something like that), 3600 stall (if auto), 3.42 gears and just some basic weight reduction will get you into the 10's N/A. With the cam being somewhat mild and the stall being reasonable we can maintain streetability while hitting 10.6-10.9 quarter miles.
The only problem is cost. To buy all the parts, pay for various installations, replace all the weak links and get a dyno tune can run well over $20,000.
#137
Originally Posted by CaseyEaterMach1
You can get a LS2 GTO for much cheaper than a Cobra. My G/F got an 06 6-spd with after market rims, corsa exhaust, after market spoiler, short shifter, CAI with 6,000 miles for around 24. Plus they are more comfortable than any Cobra or F-body but they are also slower than a Cobra and very similar in performance to a 01-02 f-body.
#138
Originally Posted by blown4.6
GTO's are nice on the inside but they still look like a cavalier on steroids.
#139
Originally Posted by darrensls1
That is true for a 346 LS1. But it is possible to make a 10 second street friendly LS1 if you go bigger cubes.
408, 418 or 427 shortblock topped with ETP LS7 heads, LS7 intake, 238/244 112 LSA cam (or something like that), 3600 stall (if auto), 3.42 gears and just some basic weight reduction will get you into the 10's N/A. With the cam being somewhat mild and the stall being reasonable we can maintain streetability while hitting 10.6-10.9 quarter miles.
The only problem is cost. To buy all the parts, pay for various installations, replace all the weak links and get a dyno tune can run well over $20,000.
408, 418 or 427 shortblock topped with ETP LS7 heads, LS7 intake, 238/244 112 LSA cam (or something like that), 3600 stall (if auto), 3.42 gears and just some basic weight reduction will get you into the 10's N/A. With the cam being somewhat mild and the stall being reasonable we can maintain streetability while hitting 10.6-10.9 quarter miles.
The only problem is cost. To buy all the parts, pay for various installations, replace all the weak links and get a dyno tune can run well over $20,000.
I agree 100%. The only problem is that 10's are not that fast anymore, thats why having a big cube/forged/FI LS1 would be MY only way to go OTHER than just a Twin Screw/ supporting mod Cobra, but the mods alone would cost almost what the Cobra cost. ( 20-25K )
#140
Is your car paid off? You are not going to find an 03-04 in good shape under 25 grand. I was looking into a sonic blue, but I wanted one with next to no mods. Cheapest was 26 grand and way the hell up north. I plan on putting about 6 grand into the SS to get me into the low 11's. I settle my ford craving down with the lightning.