Oxygen sensors keep going bad!!!
#1
Oxygen sensors keep going bad!!!
My service engine light came on again it seems like it is on every other week! I got it checked to see what codes it is throwing and it is the oxygen sensors again i just got them changed a month ago what is the root of the problem? Why do they keep going bad? Thanks for any one who can help me!!!
#3
First off, what year and model car do you have? Second, what kind of code are you getting (pre or post cat O2s)? If it's post cat O2s, are you getting codes for both O2s or just one? Also, post cat O2 codes generally indicate the cat is bad, not the O2. If you're getting just one code, try swapping the two rear O2s. If the code moves to the other side, it's a bad O2. If the code comes back the same, it's a bad cat.
Good luck,
Marc
Good luck,
Marc
#6
Mine did the same thing, 'cept only after my header swap. Turns out the wire part was melted by the headers, caused some surging and bucking. Best advice, check your sensor wire and if it looks a bit melted at one place... replace it, and get some heat wrap to tie that sucker up. Worked for me.
#7
yea also if you put on long tubes i have heard of people having a problem with the codes due to the o2 not heating up correctly or whatever, something to do with the switching...
...
...
Trending Topics
#9
#10
When you scan the car, it will tell you exactly which sensor is bad, are you replacing the right one?
This is how it reads our cars and generally the SBC engines:
Bank 1 Sensor 1= Upstream Sensor/Driver Side (Before Cat)
Bank 1 Sensor 2= Downstream Sensor/Driver Side (After Cat)
Bank 2 Sensor 1= Upstream Sensor/Passenger Side (Before Cat)
Bank 2 Sensor 2= Downstream Sensor/Passenger side (After Cat)
*Rule of thumb is that bank one is the side where cylinder one is located, bank two is where the cylinder opposed to cylinder one is, this works and applies on all makes and models.*
I hope it helps.
This is how it reads our cars and generally the SBC engines:
Bank 1 Sensor 1= Upstream Sensor/Driver Side (Before Cat)
Bank 1 Sensor 2= Downstream Sensor/Driver Side (After Cat)
Bank 2 Sensor 1= Upstream Sensor/Passenger Side (Before Cat)
Bank 2 Sensor 2= Downstream Sensor/Passenger side (After Cat)
*Rule of thumb is that bank one is the side where cylinder one is located, bank two is where the cylinder opposed to cylinder one is, this works and applies on all makes and models.*
I hope it helps.
#11
Dont put any bottled **** in there unless its an occasional fuel injector cleaner. These Bottled products contain alot of petroleum based crap that can really damage your catalytic converters, oxygen sensors, etc.
I would try some Bosch Oxygen Sensors, they always seemed to outlast the AC Delcos, were better made, and have a warranty with them, aswell.
I would try some Bosch Oxygen Sensors, they always seemed to outlast the AC Delcos, were better made, and have a warranty with them, aswell.
#14
IF YOU HAVE HEADERS, YOU NEED OEM ACDELCOS,
if you are modded at all, youll need to get the 6 six fin ACdelcos, becuase all the others are 3 three fin and DO NOT "switch" like theyre suppose too with a less restrictive exhaust and/or headers
if you are modded at all, youll need to get the 6 six fin ACdelcos, becuase all the others are 3 three fin and DO NOT "switch" like theyre suppose too with a less restrictive exhaust and/or headers
#15
Incorrect.
If you have Headers(i.e. longtubes) the rear's should either be deleted by a tune, or have some Casper O2 Simulators. And for the oxygen sensor, you can use any O2 sensor, but pref. the Rear Corvette ones for length, and for the heating element inside them. They will switch regardless, cause thats what O2's do, they are constantly switching readings.
You might have to experiment with other brands to see which brand YOU prefer. I just likes the Bosch because of the nice warranty they had, and how I went through 3-4 sets of AC delcos(had an ORY) and then switched to Boschs and never had a single problem again.
#17
post cat sensors will need to be deleted if youi have long tubes, but a tune is recommended. Then the ONLY sensor bung on the headers are the pre cat sensors, put some rear corvette oxygen sensors by bosch in those.
If the Boschs go bad, easy...take them off(keep your reciept) and go get brand new ones for free
If the Boschs go bad, easy...take them off(keep your reciept) and go get brand new ones for free
#18
Incorrect.
If you have Headers(i.e. longtubes) the rear's should either be deleted by a tune, or have some Casper O2 Simulators. And for the oxygen sensor, you can use any O2 sensor, but pref. the Rear Corvette ones for length, and for the heating element inside them. They will switch regardless, cause thats what O2's do, they are constantly switching readings.
You might have to experiment with other brands to see which brand YOU prefer. I just likes the Bosch because of the nice warranty they had, and how I went through 3-4 sets of AC delcos(had an ORY) and then switched to Boschs and never had a single problem again.
If you have Headers(i.e. longtubes) the rear's should either be deleted by a tune, or have some Casper O2 Simulators. And for the oxygen sensor, you can use any O2 sensor, but pref. the Rear Corvette ones for length, and for the heating element inside them. They will switch regardless, cause thats what O2's do, they are constantly switching readings.
You might have to experiment with other brands to see which brand YOU prefer. I just likes the Bosch because of the nice warranty they had, and how I went through 3-4 sets of AC delcos(had an ORY) and then switched to Boschs and never had a single problem again.
thats the opposite of my experience, when i replaced my front o2's with bosch 1112's the long corvette rear sensors, my car would run like crap, going way too rich and eventually stumbling itsself into misffire mode. i replaced them with OEM acdelcos and the problem went away to this day.
i thought he was talking about front o2's as i have sims in the back, but just taking out your rear o2's works just fine if you dont have something to tune the light out. so i cant make a comment on the rears other than they dont really matter...
but i am positive that if you have headers or a less restrictive exhaust than stock, you MUST HAVE 6 FIN sensors for propering switching to occur.
My service engine light came on again it seems like it is on every other week! I got it checked to see what codes it is throwing and it is the oxygen sensors again i just got them changed a month ago what is the root of the problem? Why do they keep going bad? Thanks for any one who can help me!!!