Is premium fuel required?????
08-07-2008, 09:07 PM
#41
08-07-2008, 09:19 PM
#42
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fuel boosters are a waste of money, and don't really work. i fill up my car on 93 minimum, on occasion i put 40 bucks in 113 in and she loves it. when running on 89, it runs like ****, and sets off codes.
08-08-2008, 10:59 AM
#43
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08-08-2008, 01:18 PM
#46
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I considered it for my daily driver which also requires premium since it is driven so much. But, the savings are just not worth it. I feed it premium and it runs just a bit better, which is worth it in my opinion.
Less than 5 bucks more per fill up, which comes out to about 250 Bucks a year. I will just cut down on smoking for that.
Less than 5 bucks more per fill up, which comes out to about 250 Bucks a year. I will just cut down on smoking for that.
08-08-2008, 01:29 PM
#47
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Agree 100%. Running an engine with 10+:1 compression, there is no way I am going to rely on a sensor to protect my engine because I want to try and save a couple of bucks. I came to terms a long time ago with the fact that I was going to have to pay more money for Premium with this car.
Just my .02
Just my .02
08-08-2008, 02:09 PM
#49
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Because you get free gas at work. Its regular grade,but my car is stock and I don't race it.. Usually it doesn't ping.. If money is burning a hole in your pocket that's fine,run premium.. If your car is modified run premium. If its stock like mine and your getting free 89 octane why would I pay $4.39 a gallon or $50 a tank when I can get it free... Honestly,if my motor did go,I would just have it rebuilt,then have mods done to it..Then buy premium,but until that day,I don't need to.. IMO
08-08-2008, 02:53 PM
#50
Honestly, when i had my 93Z i was 17... i didnt know better. I put in 87 all the time and not only 87, but the cheapest 87 i could find.
After less then 2 years i had to replace the pump, filter and clean the injectors. Of course i went through the hassle of trouble shooting everything... it took me months to get it all straightened out. Coincidence? Maybe, but i doubt it.
Now i know better, and have modded ls1's... i will never put anything less then 91. And its not even until i read these stupid posts that im reminded 87 even exists.
So if your going to do 87, make sure you get the cheapest gas available! Its worth it to save the extra $.75 per fill up!
After less then 2 years i had to replace the pump, filter and clean the injectors. Of course i went through the hassle of trouble shooting everything... it took me months to get it all straightened out. Coincidence? Maybe, but i doubt it.
Now i know better, and have modded ls1's... i will never put anything less then 91. And its not even until i read these stupid posts that im reminded 87 even exists.
So if your going to do 87, make sure you get the cheapest gas available! Its worth it to save the extra $.75 per fill up!
08-08-2008, 06:58 PM
#54
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08-09-2008, 12:35 AM
#56
Honestly, when i had my 93Z i was 17... i didnt know better. I put in 87 all the time and not only 87, but the cheapest 87 i could find.
After less then 2 years i had to replace the pump, filter and clean the injectors. Of course i went through the hassle of trouble shooting everything... it took me months to get it all straightened out. Coincidence? Maybe, but i doubt it.
Now i know better, and have modded ls1's... i will never put anything less then 91. And its not even until i read these stupid posts that im reminded 87 even exists.
So if your going to do 87, make sure you get the cheapest gas available! Its worth it to save the extra $.75 per fill up!
After less then 2 years i had to replace the pump, filter and clean the injectors. Of course i went through the hassle of trouble shooting everything... it took me months to get it all straightened out. Coincidence? Maybe, but i doubt it.
Now i know better, and have modded ls1's... i will never put anything less then 91. And its not even until i read these stupid posts that im reminded 87 even exists.
So if your going to do 87, make sure you get the cheapest gas available! Its worth it to save the extra $.75 per fill up!
08-09-2008, 12:57 AM
#57
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This article is all theoretically based. The author is saying "because the purpose of the electronics in the car is to protect the engine against knock, it always does this." It's a bogus statement. Electronics aren't 100%. They are prone to failure.
The electronics won't properly pull timing enough to protect against knock all the time. This is why there are still reports of people hearing knock after gassing up with lower octane fuel. Electronics aren't perfectly accurate. Even if they're accurate 98% of the time, that means 2% of the time you're driving your vehicle, you are damaging it. The author is just assuming the electronics work perfectly 100% of the time, and this in itself is wrong.
There is ZERO real data backed up, here. Why don't they drive a car tuned for 93 octane for 25,000 miles using 87 octane and the exact same model using the recommended octane. Gas them up at the same gas stations, drive them at the same speeds, use the same oil, change the oil at the same interval, etc. Just have the two cars follow each other everywhere they go for 25,000 miles, then take the engines apart and inspect them. That's the only way to see the reliability of the electronics.
Also, what about the guys that get a faulty PCM that doesn't work properly? This article assumes A LOT. It assumes the electronics work with 100% success and that the PCM's never go bad. All that assuming without a shred of real-world data. Pass. I'll stick to using the recommended octane. It costs me $0.20/gal more per fill-up. In a 16 gallon gas tank, that's a whopping $3.20 per fill-up. Whoopdie-doo!
The electronics won't properly pull timing enough to protect against knock all the time. This is why there are still reports of people hearing knock after gassing up with lower octane fuel. Electronics aren't perfectly accurate. Even if they're accurate 98% of the time, that means 2% of the time you're driving your vehicle, you are damaging it. The author is just assuming the electronics work perfectly 100% of the time, and this in itself is wrong.
There is ZERO real data backed up, here. Why don't they drive a car tuned for 93 octane for 25,000 miles using 87 octane and the exact same model using the recommended octane. Gas them up at the same gas stations, drive them at the same speeds, use the same oil, change the oil at the same interval, etc. Just have the two cars follow each other everywhere they go for 25,000 miles, then take the engines apart and inspect them. That's the only way to see the reliability of the electronics.
Also, what about the guys that get a faulty PCM that doesn't work properly? This article assumes A LOT. It assumes the electronics work with 100% success and that the PCM's never go bad. All that assuming without a shred of real-world data. Pass. I'll stick to using the recommended octane. It costs me $0.20/gal more per fill-up. In a 16 gallon gas tank, that's a whopping $3.20 per fill-up. Whoopdie-doo!
08-09-2008, 01:05 AM
#58
There was a rash of these "which gas should you really use" articles out in quite a few media outlets this year as gas prices went up. What you gotta remember is that these are not written for us. They're written for the average gas buyer who has no clue as to what octane ratings mean. It's what's appropriate for the engine, not simply "better gas." Because the price is higher, Ignoramus Gaseus Purchasaureus assumes that he should buy it, if he can. After all, a $90 tie is much nicer than a $30 tie, right?
All these articles are trying to do is clue in the ignorant who don't actually know they're wasting their money on premium for their Honda Accord. Those of us who know what type of gas their car is supposed to be running, whichever type that may be, can just skip reading the article on go on to something more important, like posting pics of their freshly washed LS1's!
-sectari
All these articles are trying to do is clue in the ignorant who don't actually know they're wasting their money on premium for their Honda Accord. Those of us who know what type of gas their car is supposed to be running, whichever type that may be, can just skip reading the article on go on to something more important, like posting pics of their freshly washed LS1's!
-sectari
08-09-2008, 01:05 AM
#59
This article is all theoretically based. The author is saying "because the purpose of the electronics in the car is to protect the engine against knock, it always does this." It's a bogus statement. Electronics aren't 100%. They are prone to failure.
The electronics won't properly pull timing enough to protect against knock all the time. This is why there are still reports of people hearing knock after gassing up with lower octane fuel. Electronics aren't perfectly accurate. Even if they're accurate 98% of the time, that means 2% of the time you're driving your vehicle, you are damaging it. The author is just assuming the electronics work perfectly 100% of the time, and this in itself is wrong.
There is ZERO real data backed up, here. Why don't they drive a car tuned for 93 octane for 25,000 miles using 87 octane and the exact same model using the recommended octane. Gas them up at the same gas stations, drive them at the same speeds, use the same oil, change the oil at the same interval, etc. Just have the two cars follow each other everywhere they go for 25,000 miles, then take the engines apart and inspect them. That's the only way to see the reliability of the electronics.
Also, what about the guys that get a faulty PCM that doesn't work properly? This article assumes A LOT. It assumes the electronics work with 100% success and that the PCM's never go bad. All that assuming without a shred of real-world data. Pass. I'll stick to using the recommended octane. It costs me $0.20/gal more per fill-up. In a 16 gallon gas tank, that's a whopping $3.20 per fill-up. Whoopdie-doo!
The electronics won't properly pull timing enough to protect against knock all the time. This is why there are still reports of people hearing knock after gassing up with lower octane fuel. Electronics aren't perfectly accurate. Even if they're accurate 98% of the time, that means 2% of the time you're driving your vehicle, you are damaging it. The author is just assuming the electronics work perfectly 100% of the time, and this in itself is wrong.
There is ZERO real data backed up, here. Why don't they drive a car tuned for 93 octane for 25,000 miles using 87 octane and the exact same model using the recommended octane. Gas them up at the same gas stations, drive them at the same speeds, use the same oil, change the oil at the same interval, etc. Just have the two cars follow each other everywhere they go for 25,000 miles, then take the engines apart and inspect them. That's the only way to see the reliability of the electronics.
Also, what about the guys that get a faulty PCM that doesn't work properly? This article assumes A LOT. It assumes the electronics work with 100% success and that the PCM's never go bad. All that assuming without a shred of real-world data. Pass. I'll stick to using the recommended octane. It costs me $0.20/gal more per fill-up. In a 16 gallon gas tank, that's a whopping $3.20 per fill-up. Whoopdie-doo!
