'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Yea, get that done pronto, that isn't helping you at all. You just need some more seat time with the DR's, you should be able to cut 1.8 1.9's if you get it dialed in.

ICRAZY6

iTrader: (68)

Sounds like the first time to the track. I've been there. I bet your leaving on green? Leave on the 2nd yellow or the third right before the green lights. That will help both your reaction time and your 60ft time.

If your car is an auto leave the trans in 3rd that way it won't shift into 4th. Also I've found that my car reacts better if you just floor it rather than try to break stall it up there. Stage very early in the lane. With BFG drag radial I wouldn't back way into the water to do a burn out, just get where the pavement wet not in the standing water. And drop your tire pressure to around 25psi to start. You'll have to find out what works for your car. Some of what I do may help you out so just go to a test and tune and try different combos to find out what works for you. Good luck.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Is this an A4 or M6?
But plain and simple that 60" needs to come down in order to improve your ET "period". And cover up the tube's if they aren't already.

FiFdYnUtz

iTrader: (12)

i did all of the things mentioned and the car seemed to be hoooking fine, i stalled it up the first time then the rest i immediately floored it when I was ready, and pulled THROUGH the water and did a burnout just until it was smoking good...this isnt my first trip to the track by any means, just with this car...thats why i am thinking it was an outside problem other then my driving.....i plugged the air line today so thats taken care of, but coming soon is gears and headers, then i want to make one last trip to the track this year and see if its fixed, i also have a wideband for the car i need to hook up so i can see if my 02's are going crazy on me also...thanks for all the help so far!

jimmy169

Gotta love the reality checks people get at the track. Just because one guy runs 12's stock doesn't mean everyone else does. I'm assuming you have an auto 98-2000. It's probably hot out which isn't helping any. Sounds like your time's are right with what your car is supposed to do.

I had a 98 auto and on a hot summer day, with longtube's, y-pipe w/ no cat, catback, lid, lower control arms, and relocation brackets it went 13.7 most of the day, hit 14's one time, and then when it turned dark I finally got my best of 13.6. Then I did ls6 intake manifold, bfg drag radials, dyno tuned 320whp, and on a wicked cold day, last day at the track before the season was done, I broke into 12.9@107 with a 2.0 60ft (was experiencing 1 tire fire as well during the burnouts). And so many people here claimed to have run those time's stock. Welcome to drag racing, every car enthusiast site will overhype their car. A few people running good time's with who knows what free mods become's the standard and then everyone else is in for a reality check, that's the difference between bench racing and actual track time.

unit213

If you're running drag radials, I'm assuming that you're not running a skinny up front.
If that's the case, why are you pulling THROUGH the waterbox? You should drive
around and back the rear wheels into it.

...and even if you think the car "feels" like it's hooking...it's clearly not based on the
60'.

J-Bru-Ha Z-28

iTrader: (2)

I would suggest a stall converter...I run a Vig 3200 stall. My first time at the track with this car I did NOT brake stall at all at the line just floored it. With STREET tires I dead hooked and put down a 1.8 60'. With your DRs you 60' should be way better that 2.0 plus. As already mentioned track temp will play a huge roll in this as well. Wait for a cooler day and give it another go. Keep us posted on any progress you make.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Sounds about right to me considering your mods and the weather and alt. I raced a guy last week at the track with an ls1 Z28 with lid and exhaust he was running 14s at 99-100 also. Dont feel bad your not the slowest.
My 00 ran pretty close to that with the same mods, and 12.7s at 108 with most bolt ons done.
My buddys 98 went 13.4 at 104 with the lid and exhaust and other bolt ons. Then he spent a crap load of cash on head work and a cam and the car still went 13.4s but at 108 mph and it wasnt spinning anymore or less than b4 the H/c work. LOL! BTW Never use EnR racing on north ave Addison for late model f-bodies.

Sarge_13

iTrader: (1)

One time at the track they had the water too close to the lane so you couldn't go around and back in and you had to pull through it. Everyone was pissed.

OP- If you have the AIR holes plugged then just practice and wait for it to get cooler.

strokerblackhawk

iTrader: (4)

when we were at the track one night there was a guy license plate said quik ws6 and this dude couldn't even hit a 14 flat, a damn VWgti almost beat him. it was freaking sorry but track conditions have alot to do with it i know i live in houston where it's humid as **** sometimes and you can see cars drop half a second on a hot humid night and these are street cars not race cars, thats why im waiting until we get a dry cold snap, you bet your *** i'll be out there when that happens until then **** it all your gonna do is make yourself angry with the car cause it won't run what you think it sould run

fccs

iTrader: (26)

dude wtf, I got a 2.6-2.9 60ft times on my $70 245s street tires and when I was stock I ran a 14 flat at 101. Now with headers I ran same only with a 107 trap speed. I just have less traction then I did before. So dont get upset over that

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

[QUOTE=ICRAZY6;9952554]Sounds like the first time to the track. I've been there. I bet your leaving on green? Leave on the 2nd yellow or the third right before the green lights. That will help both your reaction time and your 60ft time.
QUOTE]

Your 60' time has nothing to do with reaction time.

To the OP, don't get discouraged. Plug up those hoses, wait for some good fall air, and then see what you do.

jimmy169

Weather has so much to do with it. I came back to the track the very saturday after I ran my 13.6 (which was wed. of the same week), and ran a 13.4 the first run, didn't change a thing and I was almost positive I had more gas in the car even compared to when I went Wed. It was just a little cooler early saturday morning and that was enough to cut .2 off my time alone.

speedshifterNC

iTrader: (1)

Thank You...finally heard it from somebody else..The misinformed folks where I live all role right thru the waterbox. Some of them do the burnout in the waterbox The only time you need to roll thru the water box is if you have a rail, funny car, or pro mod. They actually do and need to do a big enough burnout to dry the water acquired on the front tires.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

Every .1 you take off your 60ft you usually get .2 off of your total time. I would try racing your car off idle and stalling it and see what it likes better.

If I can cut 2.0s on my 16 street tires you should be able to cut 1.8-1.9s at least on DRs....

I ran a 13.5 @ 105 I believe with just a Lid and FTRA, stalling my car to 1100 rpms...

My new new best time is with all the mods in m sig except the Ported TB. It was still in the upper 90s on both days and I believe the DA was around 1500

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I don't bother with the water box on street tires and with DRs you should do what others have said and back in but don't put your tires all the way in the water.

Also make sure your car is staged as straight as possible so you don't have to correct it going down track

If it were me I'd run it in the Fall to get your best times, you can't expect stellar times in the heat of summer

unit213

Any slick car with a skinny up front is cool to run through the water box.
For that matter, any drag radial car with a skinny is cool too really.
I agree with you though, the burnout is not done in the water box.
I like to spin the wheels quickly in the water box to ensure the tire
gets wet...then roll ahead of it for the burnout.

Rolling through the water box with a radial tire is a sure-fire way to
**** of everyone else that has to run in the lane behind you since
a radial tire will leave water all over the starting line.

unit213

It's more like .15 off ET for every tenth off your 60'.