View Poll Results: What Mod's?
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9" or Heads/Cam???
#41
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I think we all agree the rear end would be the SMARTER decision.....but what fun is that??
.
But really i gotta its better to build your platform up from the bottom, get everything built right to handle the power and work on the motor last, although i have to say i would be very dissapointed if i only had enough money for one and i dropped 2500 and didnt really get any faster
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But really i gotta its better to build your platform up from the bottom, get everything built right to handle the power and work on the motor last, although i have to say i would be very dissapointed if i only had enough money for one and i dropped 2500 and didnt really get any faster
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#42
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I have a cam/spray car with the stock 10 bolt with dr's. I don't really go to the track often so my car's more of a highway queen. Eventually I'll get around to the 9". Having a bolt on car that you can launch the **** out of would be fun though. But the thing I like about my setup is pulling high 120 trap cars on the highway when I have a relatively low amount of money into my car. I just don't launch hard at the track, oh well.
#51
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if i were you, id do h/c/c.if you got a stock clutch now, you almost need a new clutch. just keep the power at a minimum from a dig, but you will need a 9in or 12bolt eventully.
but really, the best way to do is rear end first
but really, the best way to do is rear end first
#52
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think long term, get the rear, you know its money well spent, and plus you can always add more power later, this way you have a great platform and you dont have to be gentle either!
#54
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I'd swap the rear. Better to build from the ground up IMHO. Atleast with the 9" you can flog on it with one less worry.
Last edited by DeepV; 09-25-2008 at 12:03 AM. Reason: I said I'd do the rear... lol
#57
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now keep in mind if you do go with a nine inch it's gonna eat up like 15-20rwhp but like everyone said you can beat the **** outta it well except if you have a stock drive shaft or a stock clutch or a stock tranny but you gotta start somewhere.
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I can speak on this matter, buy the 9rear 1st i went the other way got h/c package had exactly 1 pass at track and blew rear. car had to sit till i had enough money to buy my 9
then i blew the trans got a th350 then i blew motor i got a new 1 lol so my point build your car from the *** backwards (rear to the front) good luck
then i blew the trans got a th350 then i blew motor i got a new 1 lol so my point build your car from the *** backwards (rear to the front) good luck
#59
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Here's my input.
I broke my posi a few months back and had some money to spend. Instead of getting a 12 bolt, I got a bigger cam and FAST 90/90 while replacing the posi unit out back.
A month later the timing chain snapped, bent my valves and damaged all 8 pistons.
If I would have gotten the 12 bolt, timing chain would have been fine. I had it cammed for over a year with no issues until I went bigger.
Moral of the story, it might not make you go faster, but get the rear end.
I broke my posi a few months back and had some money to spend. Instead of getting a 12 bolt, I got a bigger cam and FAST 90/90 while replacing the posi unit out back.
A month later the timing chain snapped, bent my valves and damaged all 8 pistons.
If I would have gotten the 12 bolt, timing chain would have been fine. I had it cammed for over a year with no issues until I went bigger.
Moral of the story, it might not make you go faster, but get the rear end.
#60
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Just because you have a rear end does not mean nothing will still break. I like seeing how everyone seems to think the rear solves all your problems and makes your car like superman all the sudden lol. Thing is you need a plan. I personally watched a 12 bolt blow a set of 4.56 gears and a few 9" rears go, driveshafts get twisted, clutches break. If they hold then you get other weakpoints. You will not drive that car any harder with a 9" then with H/C/C. Why? Because that clutch, tranny, D/S will never take what the rear can. Its cheaper to rebuild that 10 bolt then the damage from a d/s that let go at the joints, or a M6 busting the tail housing, internals or shattered clutch or several other things that can still go wrong either way. Buy the H/C/C then save the money to do the rear alittle bit down the road. You can buy several used or newish H/C off the for sale section for 1500 and make great power leaving you with over 1000 later for a rear. My last setup was a 2000 SS with a Magnacharger making 400 RWTQ at 2200 RPM's on a stock 3.42. I upgraded to a Moser 9" later because I planned on hitting the tracks hard. I never would have changed the rear if I was to stay on the street with it.
First of all have a build in mind.
Know what your goal is and build towards that goal.
Know a realistic budget, no one has to know what it is but you and a wife if your married. What you can afford do by saving and or up front. Once you know that then make a plan and decide which should be first.
I hear it all the time get a forged short block first or rear first blah blah. **** breaks even those whether you put the power down or not. I rather rebuild the cheaper stuff first, get the product first then get the support to keep it going. But thats me.
First of all have a build in mind.
Know what your goal is and build towards that goal.
Know a realistic budget, no one has to know what it is but you and a wife if your married. What you can afford do by saving and or up front. Once you know that then make a plan and decide which should be first.
I hear it all the time get a forged short block first or rear first blah blah. **** breaks even those whether you put the power down or not. I rather rebuild the cheaper stuff first, get the product first then get the support to keep it going. But thats me.