AC Install Question
AC Install Question All....
My a/c went out last fall and I have been buying parts as money has allowed. Gosh they are expensive...close to 1k for everything.
I have a new gm compressor, dryer, and condenser along with the accessories that came with the parts orifice tube etc.
I wanted to install the parts myself to save money and then just have it re charged.
At this time the system has no charge, I had a shop take it out when they were checking for leaks.
Would this be a straight forward part swap?
What are the details I need to watch for?
Should I just install parts and not connect lines and then take it to the shop?
Any info appreciated Thanks~!!!
My a/c went out last fall and I have been buying parts as money has allowed. Gosh they are expensive...close to 1k for everything.
I have a new gm compressor, dryer, and condenser along with the accessories that came with the parts orifice tube etc.
I wanted to install the parts myself to save money and then just have it re charged.
At this time the system has no charge, I had a shop take it out when they were checking for leaks.
Would this be a straight forward part swap?
What are the details I need to watch for?
Should I just install parts and not connect lines and then take it to the shop?
Any info appreciated Thanks~!!!
Ideally you'd flush the evaporator if you're going that far with everything else. Just to remove the oil if nothing else, to be sure you get the right amount back in.
Get some pag 150oil to lube the o-rings and just swap out parts. If you didn't get an o-ring kit advanced auto has a good one for $8 factory air brand made in USA. All your parts should come with o-rings but chances are you'll need one or two and asking for seperate o-rings is a pain in the ***, I just get the kit.
I've been told by autoparts stores to use other oils, it has to be pag150.
I'd get it all connected to the compressor, Take a hose and funnel to pour some oil in the evap. connect the lines to the evap, then open the oil and pour some in the suction line to the comp, and some in the accumulator where that hose connects, then use a small funnel to pour the rest into the condenser.
It's important to get it sealed up pretty quick after to oil bottle is opened up.
I forgot the amout of oil to use, the brand advance carries is an ounce or so short, I think they sell 8 ounce bottles, just tell the shop how much and what type you put in.
You could have them put the full oil charge in, but you need some to lube the o-rings with.
What I do is connect the vacuum pump and let it suck the oil into the condenser, not sure how much luck you'll have with gravity taking it in.
Then I'd turn the compressor by hand just for the hell of it.
Get some pag 150oil to lube the o-rings and just swap out parts. If you didn't get an o-ring kit advanced auto has a good one for $8 factory air brand made in USA. All your parts should come with o-rings but chances are you'll need one or two and asking for seperate o-rings is a pain in the ***, I just get the kit.
I've been told by autoparts stores to use other oils, it has to be pag150.
I'd get it all connected to the compressor, Take a hose and funnel to pour some oil in the evap. connect the lines to the evap, then open the oil and pour some in the suction line to the comp, and some in the accumulator where that hose connects, then use a small funnel to pour the rest into the condenser.
It's important to get it sealed up pretty quick after to oil bottle is opened up.
I forgot the amout of oil to use, the brand advance carries is an ounce or so short, I think they sell 8 ounce bottles, just tell the shop how much and what type you put in.
You could have them put the full oil charge in, but you need some to lube the o-rings with.
What I do is connect the vacuum pump and let it suck the oil into the condenser, not sure how much luck you'll have with gravity taking it in.
Then I'd turn the compressor by hand just for the hell of it.
The evaporator is the part in the passenger compartment, under the dash. Hopefully your shop found a leak somewhere in the engine compartment.
You can see the two lines from it near the box on the firewall, there is a connection there with o-rings that you should replace while you've got it torn down.
You can see the two lines from it near the box on the firewall, there is a connection there with o-rings that you should replace while you've got it torn down.
I use lacquer thinner or brake cleaner. It's cheaper, does a better job than the AC flush, and most important it evaporates faster. But what you use is up to you, just a suggestion.
And don't forget to be careful if you use something flammable.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 22
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You might want to put a call in to the shop that will be doing the recharging.
I say this because I went a similar route a few years back when my compressor crapped out. Went to all the work of putting the new one on (correctly), drove to the shop and once they looked and saw the new compressor they said they wouldn't fill or do a recharge unless their mechanic pulled the new compressor, filled it properly, rotated it properly, and what-have you.
Basically said all the work I had done the day before was for nothing. And I would have paid the same amount had I just handed them the part and had them do the entire install.
I say this because I went a similar route a few years back when my compressor crapped out. Went to all the work of putting the new one on (correctly), drove to the shop and once they looked and saw the new compressor they said they wouldn't fill or do a recharge unless their mechanic pulled the new compressor, filled it properly, rotated it properly, and what-have you.
Basically said all the work I had done the day before was for nothing. And I would have paid the same amount had I just handed them the part and had them do the entire install.
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You might want to put a call in to the shop that will be doing the recharging.
I say this because I went a similar route a few years back when my compressor crapped out. Went to all the work of putting the new one on (correctly), drove to the shop and once they looked and saw the new compressor they said they wouldn't fill or do a recharge unless their mechanic pulled the new compressor, filled it properly, rotated it properly, and what-have you.
Basically said all the work I had done the day before was for nothing. And I would have paid the same amount had I just handed them the part and had them do the entire install.
I say this because I went a similar route a few years back when my compressor crapped out. Went to all the work of putting the new one on (correctly), drove to the shop and once they looked and saw the new compressor they said they wouldn't fill or do a recharge unless their mechanic pulled the new compressor, filled it properly, rotated it properly, and what-have you.
Basically said all the work I had done the day before was for nothing. And I would have paid the same amount had I just handed them the part and had them do the entire install.
They're trying the squeeze you for money. If thats the case tell them to take the electrical plug off the comp, leak check everything, evacuate it (run a vacuum pump on it), and put a holding charge in it (of refrigerant).
Then you can add the rest.
Honestly if I ran into a shop like that I'd go somewhere else.
As long as you have clean clothes on, answer any of their questions like you know what you're talking about, they shouldn't have a problem doing it. They might ask you about how you put oil in it, etc.
Thats another tip. Don't pour oil in the compressor at all. Get the hoses with new seals bolted up to it and install it. I said it already, pour the oil into the suction line. This line goes right to the compressor (the other end connects the the accumulator). This way the comp gets oil the same, but none splills all over the place during assembly.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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They're trying the squeeze you for money. If thats the case tell them to take the electrical plug off the comp, leak check everything, evacuate it (run a vacuum pump on it), and put a holding charge in it (of refrigerant).
Then you can add the rest.
Honestly if I ran into a shop like that I'd go somewhere else.
As long as you have clean clothes on, answer any of their questions like you know what you're talking about, they shouldn't have a problem doing it. They might ask you about how you put oil in it, etc.
Thats another tip. Don't pour oil in the compressor at all. Get the hoses with new seals bolted up to it and install it. I said it already, pour the oil into the suction line. This line goes right to the compressor (the other end connects the the accumulator). This way the comp gets oil the same, but none splills all over the place during assembly.
Then you can add the rest.
Honestly if I ran into a shop like that I'd go somewhere else.
As long as you have clean clothes on, answer any of their questions like you know what you're talking about, they shouldn't have a problem doing it. They might ask you about how you put oil in it, etc.
Thats another tip. Don't pour oil in the compressor at all. Get the hoses with new seals bolted up to it and install it. I said it already, pour the oil into the suction line. This line goes right to the compressor (the other end connects the the accumulator). This way the comp gets oil the same, but none splills all over the place during assembly.
Nah, you got them pegged wrong.
These are good guys. Have bent over backwards for me, and not charged me for things that others would have. They weren't comfortable not knowing what processes I followed, and didn't want it to come back and bite them if the compressor was installed properly.
Anyway, I was just putting it out there for the OP.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 133
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The orfice tube will stop most of the crap from getting into the evaporator so i wouldn't be too worried about that part of the system. I would for sure flush the high pressure lines ALL of them and the condensor. Then i would run the charge the system, run it for a few mins then pull the orifice tube and check it for debris. Usually what happens is the comp comes apart and starts clogging the orfice tube.....then nothing gets bk to cool the comp and it locks up.
The orfice tube will stop most of the crap from getting into the evaporator so i wouldn't be too worried about that part of the system. I would for sure flush the high pressure lines ALL of them and the condensor. Then i would run the charge the system, run it for a few mins then pull the orifice tube and check it for debris. Usually what happens is the comp comes apart and starts clogging the orfice tube.....then nothing gets bk to cool the comp and it locks up.
Sounds like the evaporator is the only old part, why not flush it?
I'll assume you've never seen a blown out orifice tube, built up pressure against a clogged orifice tube can push it's way through.
Just remove all that **** from the car. Take back the $1000 in parts you have spent on the A/C system and put it back in the bank. Take that thing to the track and go faster than it ever has before. LOL
