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U joint replacement help???

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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 01:08 PM
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Default U joint replacement help???

I found my car has a small leak by the front u joint. It looks like a grease is flung all over in that area. How hard is it to change the u joint by the tranny and the seal where the driveshaft goes into the tranny? I think those would fix the leak. Like I said, it looks more like a grease then a oil. Any info/help would be great. Thanks!
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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If it was leaking from your rear tranny seal then the fluid would have a redish tint to it, being that your supposed to have dextron 3 in the transmission, and as far as the ujoints go, if they are stock, then you have to torch them to melt the nylon thats holding them in. You could beat on them with a socket and a hammer but its a major pain in the ***.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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If it IS grease and not tranny fluid, the u-joint could've ruptured. Does the u-joint look mangled/bent/twisted?

Changing u-joints is easy. Mark the realtionship of the driveshaft-to-pinion flange with white-out or paint. Unbolt the flange bolts from the pinion end, and just pull the driveshaft toward the rear of the car and it'll fall right out. And as bambaboy says, it may be a PITA to get the u-jont out, but a socket & sledge hammer works fine. JUST BE CAREFUL WITH THE DRIVESHAFT while pounding on the u-joint caps. While the driveshaft is out, you may want to get it re-balanced if it hasn't been yet.

Replace the u-joints & re-install. Not a big deal. I just did this on my truck. Very simple.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. I thought it might be a pita. The grease has no red in it. So it must be the u joint. I guess I have a project this weekend. The u joint looks to be in good shape. Could it just be that the u joint leaks? I'll fix it anyways.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 1gt2nv
Thanks for the info guys. I thought it might be a pita. The grease has no red in it. So it must be the u joint. I guess I have a project this weekend. The u joint looks to be in good shape. Could it just be that the u joint leaks? I'll fix it anyways.
No, I wouldn't "fix it anyways." I'd figure out what it actually is. The only thing down there that throws grease is the u-joint, so that's a good place to start looking. If you pull out the shaft & the joint looks good & leak-free, I'd begin to investigate further.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 06:21 PM
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I'll look into it this weekend. How can you tell if the u joint is bad? Sorry, the rwd car is very new to me. Always had a modded fwd.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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If you see that the u-joint is ruptured, it's obvious that it's been leaking. Otherwise, look to see if it's bent/twisted/mangled/damaged.

The pics are from my truck I just did.
The first pic is a new joint. If you see the endcaps are damaged or broken, they're probably leaking. Also, notice the grease fitting - if that's not there, it's leaking.
The second pic is the bad u-joint I removed. If it looks anything like that, then it's most likely time to replace it. I'm surprised it didn't break free on me.
Attached Thumbnails U joint replacement help???-new-u-joint.jpg   U joint replacement help???-old-u-joint.jpg  
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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Can the nylon inserts be drilled into with a small bit and this help to remove the u-joints? We have new u-joints and would like to install them. I have found out that they are in there good. I saw the nylon sticking out of the flanges. We have about 120k on the stockers and think since the driveshaft is out, now is the time to get the u-joints.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Eddie 70
Can the nylon inserts be drilled into with a small bit and this help to remove the u-joints?
Won't help, that's just the injection point. A ring of plastic holds it. Best is to get out the torch to melt it, but brute force can break the plastic too.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 06:38 PM
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A torch is 25 Bucks, and will save you *** loads of pain.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 07:08 PM
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Torch worked well for us. Going back was pretty hard. The u-joint was a tight fit in the driveshaft in the diff end. For some reason the clips that hold the caps on were too tight. I shaved about 3 thousands off of both clips and this helped.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Eddie 70
Torch worked well for us. Going back was pretty hard. The u-joint was a tight fit in the driveshaft in the diff end. For some reason the clips that hold the caps on were too tight. I shaved about 3 thousands off of both clips and this helped.
If you bought the right u-joint kit, you shouldn't have had to shave the clips...
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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We bought the Brute Force u-joints from AZ that their computer picked for the Z28. I just had to assume it was correct. Car is together and all seems to be well.
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