Car stalling, need suggestions please
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Normally on a cold start, when I shift into D or R the car will be fine, but anytime it is warm it will freak out and fall on it's face. Also, on warm restarts it tries to die while idling in park. Does anyone have any clues? I've taken it to a different tuner, and he can't even get it to keep from dying.
So far I have replaced the fuel filter, no changes.
This is on a standard cam/stall car by the way.
So far I have replaced the fuel filter, no changes.
This is on a standard cam/stall car by the way.
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More details on the car...
Whats idle set at?
Is your throttle body ported?
Is the throttle body epoxied?
Codes?
Have you ever cleaned the MAF?
The tuners you have taken it to, are they real tuners or friends with a laptop? You can accomplish a lot with the tune.
The issue does sound like it's related to closed loop, so do check for codes, bad o2 maybe.
Whats idle set at?
Is your throttle body ported?
Is the throttle body epoxied?
Codes?
Have you ever cleaned the MAF?
The tuners you have taken it to, are they real tuners or friends with a laptop? You can accomplish a lot with the tune.
The issue does sound like it's related to closed loop, so do check for codes, bad o2 maybe.
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I don't think my car even uses the 02 sensors, the last guy who tuned it did it without them I think. And it's a stock throttle body. No codes at all.
Last edited by paulc87; 03-31-2009 at 09:27 AM.
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I think he did remove them, the wires for my 02's were getting wet and making the car run terrible. And should I try cleaning the MAF? Also, I remember my mechanic telling me that he wasn't able to change the idle/RPM of my car with his computer. I'm not sure if that helps or not.
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I think he did remove them, the wires for my 02's were getting wet and making the car run terrible. And should I try cleaning the MAF? Also, I remember my mechanic telling me that he wasn't able to change the idle/RPM of my car with his computer. I'm not sure if that helps or not.
You need the front 02's. You could try cleaning the maf, be very carefull, I used electronics cleaner and a small paint brush or q-tip ever so lightly on the wires.
Otherwise you are looking at a faulty IAC in the throttle body possibly or a Vacume leak somewhere.
If you're tuner cannot change the idle then you need to find a new tuner. Somebody proficient with EFILive or HPTuners... A cammed/stalled car needs a lot of love to get the idle chracteristics just right.
make 100% sure your throttle body is stock. Any drilling done to the butterfly plate? and make sure your set screw is right. I ask this because I had a ported/epoxied TB and the epoxy blocked off too much of the IAC inlet and caused a real shitty idle, that almost no amount of tuning could fix.
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Rear 02's do nothing regarding idle or performance.
You need the front 02's. You could try cleaning the maf, be very carefull, I used electronics cleaner and a small paint brush or q-tip ever so lightly on the wires.
Otherwise you are looking at a faulty IAC in the throttle body possibly or a Vacume leak somewhere.
If you're tuner cannot change the idle then you need to find a new tuner. Somebody proficient with EFILive or HPTuners... A cammed/stalled car needs a lot of love to get the idle chracteristics just right.
You need the front 02's. You could try cleaning the maf, be very carefull, I used electronics cleaner and a small paint brush or q-tip ever so lightly on the wires.
Otherwise you are looking at a faulty IAC in the throttle body possibly or a Vacume leak somewhere.
If you're tuner cannot change the idle then you need to find a new tuner. Somebody proficient with EFILive or HPTuners... A cammed/stalled car needs a lot of love to get the idle chracteristics just right.
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Could also be a bad, MAF, I've seen em' go in other cars without a throwing a code. You got any friends that will let you borrow a part for a bit?
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Far as tuning goes, I've never heard of a tuner that could not set an idle.
One question. When the car starts to die does it matter if the brake is depressed? Does it smooth out when you hit the bakes right away?
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Could also be a bad, MAF, I've seen em' go in other cars without a throwing a code. You got any friends that will let you borrow a part for a bit? ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Far as tuning goes, I've never heard of a tuner that could not set an idle.
One question. When the car starts to die does it matter if the brake is depressed? Does it smooth out when you hit the bakes right away?
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Far as tuning goes, I've never heard of a tuner that could not set an idle.
One question. When the car starts to die does it matter if the brake is depressed? Does it smooth out when you hit the bakes right away?
BTW, I can post a video of the problem later if you want
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No I do not think so, I know that when it's warm and finally idling correctly I can make it surge again by hitting the brakes and turning the steering wheel. It seems like the car can't catch itself at the idle speed. For example, when letting off of the gas and the trans shifting up into 2nd, the RPM drops and catches itself around 500rpm
BTW, I can post a video of the problem later if you want
BTW, I can post a video of the problem later if you want
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I forgot to mention that my tuner said my converter was bad, I will have a replacement trans and stall later this month. Also I will try unplugging the MAF this evening
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I unplugged the MAF yesterday and the car runs MUCH better. Doesn't stall when changing gears, etc.
He said it was bad because it would never lock up, anyway I ran the car with the P1870 (TCC Slip) code for so long I ended up losing 2nd and 4th gear.
He said it was bad because it would never lock up, anyway I ran the car with the P1870 (TCC Slip) code for so long I ended up losing 2nd and 4th gear.
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He might be saying the converter is bad when it's something else. Do a search on the code, could be lots of things, valve body related, selenoid, lockup, pwm, converter clutch, etc...
The car will go into limp mode and the tranny won't shift into high gear. Its' common if you put in a higher stall and you don't remove the shift selenoid codes, car thinks the tranny is slipping.
You said you are replacing both the tranny and converter anyways. I suggest after that you get the car fully retuned.